SCCA CAM-C Thread

[Dallas J]

Are you letting the car shift when it wants or manually shifting? That would solve the shifting mid corner...

When I don't forget to put things in the right mode, manually shifting to 2nd shortly after start and 3rd in a convenient location typically pre-planned. 3rd does ~74mph with the short tires and 3.55 final.

I gotta order a tune for the "other" mods coming, but going to enable roll race mode so it auto-upshifts in situations I miss the shift. At the Packwood pro I missed 2nd several times and its 2-3/10ths lost since it fuel cuts, delays, then shifts.

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[WItoTX]

When I don't forget to put things in the right mode, manually shifting to 2nd shortly after start and 3rd in a convenient location typically pre-planned. 3rd does ~74mph with the short tires and 3.55 final.

I gotta order a tune for the "other" mods coming, but going to enable roll race mode so it auto-upshifts in situations I miss the shift. At the Packwood pro I missed 2nd several times and its 2-3/10ths lost since it fuel cuts, delays, then shifts.

Gotcha. I had a similar issue, I had to devote way too much thought on shifting to 3rd then back to second last event.

Crazy considering in my own car (a manual) it's just second nature.

 

[Dana Pants]

I’m just gotta add the Z51 C8 corvette gearing and shift logic is worst possible. Gotta jump between 2 and 3 like 6 times a run and the computer won’t make good choices on your behalf.

 

[Dallas J]

I’m just gotta add the Z51 C8 corvette gearing and shift logic is worst possible. Gotta jump between 2 and 3 like 6 times a run and the computer won’t make good choices on your behalf.

Is the gear split that bad on the C8?

S550 10spd on 315s at 7500 is:

1. 37
2. 54
3. 75
4. 91
5. 106

I chose the 10speed specifically cause the split is pretty ideal for a torquey car.

Especially since I have boost planned, the short splits will let us run a higher gear to drop torque to the wheels. Torque drop going up a gear is:

1. --
2. 47%
3. 39%
4. 21%
5. 16%

 

[Dana Pants]

Is the gear split that bad on the C8?

S550 10spd on 315s at 7500 is:

1. 37
2. 54
3. 75
4. 91
5. 106

I chose the 10speed specifically cause the split is pretty ideal f

I think 2nd goes to almost 60 on the C8, but it has no problem getting there quite often.

 

[WItoTX]

I’m just gotta add the Z51 C8 corvette gearing and shift logic is worst possible. Gotta jump between 2 and 3 like 6 times a run and the computer won’t make good choices on your behalf.

The C7 is bad too. I don't know the exact speeds but I know I was hanging out around 6500 for a fair bit of the run, and the fast bits I was into 3rd to keep it from hitting the limiter.

 

[Dallas J]

I thought "roll race mode" would be the solution to ALL OF MY PROBLEMS!

It wasn't. In fact, I'm not sure I've ever been so infuriated racing a car as trying to get the @!#$!@#%!%@#$%!@%T$#!~@%$#!@^$#%!@#^%$^$ transmission to stop upshifting as soon as I lift leaving me in ONE OR TWO mother-Q@#R$!Q@%#$E!@%$# gears too high.

#language

What I thought/hoped would happen:

If I got to redline without shifting it would manually shift. So if I missed the TINY WINDOW of trying to shift between 7000 and 7400 rpm, it wouldnt hit fuel cut and delay nearly a full 1/2 second before shifting​

​

What actually happened:

It upshifted when it wanted to, usually 500-1000 rpms early. And if you ran out 3rd or 4th up to a braking zone and lifted, it would upshift to 4th or 5th. And it would absolutely refuse to downshift for at least a second if at all. Usually not at all.​

​

I really want the 10speed to work, on paper it should be amazing. But it needs a few critical things that Im hoping can be done in the tune (its stock right now, just auto-upshift in SSR mode enabled)

1. Auto-upshift if I run it to "redline" without manually upshifting
2. Shift only via paddles
3. NOTHING FRICKEN ELSE!

In the tune can we change the style of rev limit? The stock fuel cut settings are crap for holding a gear just a few moment if you dont want an upshift/downshift

 

[mavisky]

Well I reminded myself how important fresh tires are. After slipping back to barely finishing in the top 20 earlier this year I threw a fresh set of 305/30-19 Re71RS's on the car and promptly proceeded to finish 4th overall on raw times. My buddy in CAMC just put a set on himself and snuck past my by 2 tenths. We were down two top contenders due to nationals but that still would have had us right around the top 5 as opposed to the top 20. Still looking to lower spring rates before the end of the season but want to retain this balance so need to strategically analyze available rates.

 

[kz]

In the tune can we change the style of rev limit? The stock fuel cut settings are crap for holding a gear just a few moment if you dont want an upshift/downshift

Where's your tune from ? Lund (or specifically Alex there) asked me back in the day whether I wanted fuel or spark cut off so it sounds like it is doable.

 

[Dallas J]

Where's your tune from ? Lund (or specifically Alex there) asked me back in the day whether I wanted fuel or spark cut off so it sounds like it is doable.

Totally stock tune right now. I'm only ~6mo into playing with the Mustang, drinking from a firehose as I learn a new platform. I'll probably be getting a tune from wendgerd soon for the ESS G2, but gotta figure out what direction I want to go for shifting and specifically what to ask for.

 

[Dallas J]

Ive been having terrible issue accelerating out of corners.

The only reasonable way I could get the car to power out of corners is to run with the rear bar disconnected. Some courses were better than others, but its been a bit frustrating. I thought it was the stock front bar limiting things and when I drilled it for ~30% more stiffness it was better on 450/550 but 550/700 brought me back to a twitchy car under throttle.

Alignment is:
Camber: -3.5f/-2.5r
Caster: 10mm offset front tophats (probably a degree or so more)
Toe: 0/0

Sooo, after researching its seems pretty universal mustangs want -.125 to -.25 (0.15-0.30) total toe in. Can anyone validate the cars corner exit attitude with a big toe-in change?

I may also drop rear camber from -2.5 to -2.0. But will have to spend some time looking at what others are running front/rear for camber.

 

[Dana Pants]

I can say that 1/4 inch+ rear toe in really fights rotation compared to about 1/8”. I learned this in FS. No harm in trying stuff.

My opinion is that the fastest way is to carry speed, not to put power down. Maximize mid-turn grip, Vmin, and live with the consequences.

 

[mavisky]

I can say that 1/4 inch+ rear toe in really fights rotation compared to about 1/8”. I learned this in FS. No harm in trying stuff.

My opinion is that the fastest way is to carry speed, not to put power down. Maximize mid-turn grip, Vmin, and live with the consequences.

I'm coming around to this right now. I've been driving the car like a point and squirt missile in the past and it kind of worked, but not the best. I changed the suspension this year and was chasing the rear everywhere. I still think there could be a little more compliance for small bumps, but this weekend tried to drive it like a big fat Miata (all those MX4 race on iRacing helping out a little) and put in a 4th overall on raw times.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ive been having terrible issue accelerating out of corners.

The only reasonable way I could get the car to power out of corners is to run with the rear bar disconnected. Some courses were better than others, but its been a bit frustrating. I thought it was the stock front bar limiting things and when I drilled it for ~30% more stiffness it was better on 450/550 but 550/700 brought me back to a twitchy car under throttle.

Alignment is:
Camber: -3.5f/-2.5r
Caster: 10mm offset front tophats (probably a degree or so more)
Toe: 0/0

Sooo, after researching its seems pretty universal mustangs want -.125 to -.25 (0.15-0.30) total toe in. Can anyone validate the cars corner exit attitude with a big toe-in change?

I may also drop rear camber from -2.5 to -2.0. But will have to spend some time looking at what others are running front/rear for camber.

I’ve always run toe in and yes it should help the rear stay tucked on corner exit.

I’d dial the rear camber back to 2. TBH I’ve not run higher but 2 was what my research led to, and tire wear and tread temps seem to confirm it.

You have the Torsen, yea?

 

[Dallas J]

Ugh, helmet cams are the worst

But I disagree on sacrificing ability put power down for a few 0.0x g's in AutoX. Everything's a balance of variables of course, but if one aspect is critically worse than others then that's going to be the most beneficial area to fix. On track I have a different view because of time spent at steady state, but not for AutoX.

I have one log on solostorm from last weekend where a downshift to 2nd, in a location the car actually accelerated in, was worth 3 or 4/10ths (I forget the exact number) in just the small accel zone. Looking at Speed delta run to run, there was a big difference between the two runs, like 8mph by the end of it.

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