SCCA CAM-C Thread

[Dallas J]

Yep, its a huge event and few are ever ready their first time. I've been 5 times.

2015 - 14th SM (All nerves, completely underdrove)
2018 - 1st SM (Lucky-ish win, had a 2.3s lead day1 due to hero rain run)
2019 - 2nd SM (Broken diffs but still 1-2, codriver beat me)
2023 - 1st SM (Good win)
2024 - 4th XA (I drove like booty, fastest day2 but multiple 0.5s mistakes both sides)

Hoping to find a CAM podium finish in 2026

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[NightmareMoon]

Well, have a decent tune, but just dropped off the car with an experienced mustang guy to see if he can do better. Hope to have it back w/in two weeks.

:crossesfingers:

 

[WItoTX]

Well, have a decent tune, but just dropped off the car with an experienced mustang guy to see if he can do better. Hope to have it back w/in two weeks.

:crossesfingers:

Where did you take it?

My engine should be back in 3 or 4 weeks, and I still have the option to have someone else tune it. Always interested in feedback.

 

[LightningGT350R]

Yep, its a huge event and few are ever ready their first time. I've been 5 times.

2015 - 14th SM (All nerves, completely underdrove)
2018 - 1st SM (Lucky-ish win, had a 2.3s lead day1 due to hero rain run)
2019 - 2nd SM (Broken diffs but still 1-2, codriver beat me)
2023 - 1st SM (Good win)
2024 - 4th XA (I drove like booty, fastest day2 but multiple 0.5s mistakes both sides)

Hoping to find a CAM podium finish in 2026

That's a great record for Nats!!

 

[NightmareMoon]

If anybody wants a good 2022 CAMC Solo Nats winning lexan spoiler, Im trying to get rid of mine before I move.

Comes with mounting brackets and supports. You’d have to modify a decklid you provide, but its set to work well on a factory spoiler trucklid widening but basically reusing and covering existing spoiler holes.

DM me if interested. Lots of DF and stabilizing drag for confidence in those high speed offsets and sweepers. I can even throw in a smaller variant for track use (slightly shorter).

im happy to make a classifieds post but this is a pretty niche offering.

 

[Dallas J]

Ended up getting a lot more testing this weekend than expected with the new build.

Refresher, setup is pretty basic on a heavy Premium/A10. MCS 2WNR (internal doubles), 450/550 spring rates, 18x11.5 w/315 A052s (2yr old tires from other car). -3.5/-2.5 camber. Custom 3pt rear upper rear mount.

We got 19 runs in the car. Wife ran 5 saturday with me as passenger and tweaking shocks between runs. I hot lapped 9 runs in an hour just driving. Sunday I ran 5 more.

Wifey has been racing with me for ~13yrs, typically 2-3s off my times. We ran in track mode with TC/AT on. She's not super aggressive on throttle so likely only hit WOT coming into the finish. But she found a flow and we were able to go "too far" on the shocks so at least got a decent baseline.

She ran a ~57.5 on her 4th run in the car. Caveat, we drive AWD. RWD is totally new.

Afternoon we had a Test-n-tune session and I was hot lapping the car only bleeding tires for 5 runs. Then I only stopped long enough to spray tires and get back in line for another 4 runs. THEY WERE HOT YOKS! I ran TC off but AT on.

Take-aways, off throttle the car was shockingly good. Better midcorner control than my Evo. Exit was rough. I had to be very cautious/gentle on throttle. If the back started to move it was really non-progressive and took a big time hit to get back under control.

I managed a non-perfect 54.4. A competitive PAX run would have been a low 52. Fun, but not quite fast enough yet. It seemed obvious we needed more front sway bar.

Sunday, our plan to run a Tesla we're working on fell apart so hopped back into the Mustang. Since I know we needed more Front bar, I decided to simulate that by disconnecting the rear bar. Otherwise, exactly the same as previous day. A solid A/B comparison. The car was going to be floppier but data points are data points

Lawdy, that was a whole a$$ revelation in balance. TC/AT both off, it just drove like a car I actually had control of. A little bit more push in certain sections, but completely usable throttle. Each run was picking up more and more time as I'm learning both RWD and the car. With a push deep into a showcase sweeper I ended up with a 51.1. Forgot my tablet for SoloStorm but have a good enough feel for the potential to be mid 50s.

A PAX competitive time would have been mid/low 49s. Which sounds a ways off, but not terrible considering no rear bar, soft front bar, ~3800lb car, stock power, and 2yr old tires. The courses were also extremely transitiony (if thats a word). Like almost no pure acceleration zones, and hands were very busy at all times. MX5s and Twins heaven.

Learning was the goal, and the goal was met! So what's the plan?

• Front Bar. Doing research, I think Steeda 35mm bar will give the range I'm looking for.
• Install rear FP sphericals in Toe-arm and a few of the BMR subframe bushings
• Swap to the newer 315 A052s I have as Take-offs from 2024 Nats off my Evo.

Im still working on the billet uprights but the steering arm part is tricky. Its mounted really low and wheel clearance is an issue to get a standard double shear adjustable mount. On the plus side, increasing steering rate by 10% (16:1 to 14.6:1) actually helps clearance.

 

[Dallas J]

I got few parts ordered to hopefully get on before Packwood Pro.

Steeda 35mm front bar - This one seems nice with 4 positions and +42-97% stiffness. The BRM bar was a quite a bit softer for their 35mm version, must have a thinner wall. Seems a lot of people run a larger front and rear bar, but also seems most people are just on regular lowering spring or a soft divorced rear spring.

550 lb/in coilover springs are equivalent to 1350 lb/in divorced springs.

Rear Toe Arm and control arm Spherical - Going off a BMR vid, it seemed these had the most torque/resistance with the bonded bushing. Upper control arm and Vertical link I'll probably make my own version.

Cradle bushing lockout - Same BMR vid talked about this being important. I'll take their word for it since its only $100 while I'm in there doing bearings.

I'll run the stock rear bar with the 35mm front bar probably set to upper mid for the first set of Pro runs.

Any thoughts on what would be next most effective change? Diff mount bushings looks like they're pretty floppy.

 

[Dana Pants]

Diff housing bushings are very important for having fun.

and don’t fear rear roll stiffness. It is your friend.

 

[Dallas J]

Diff housing bushings are very important for having fun.

and don’t fear rear roll stiffness. It is your friend.

Well, I have roll stiffness, just not from bar ;). Struggling to find other folks setup to get better comparison.

I will say, with bar connected the car didnt want to put power down early at all. We were even tri-podding quite a bit through higher steering angle sweepers. More front bar and front roll correction will help that though.

Disconnecting the bar, it was so much more driveable on corner exit. But of course that was just a test. Looking forward to feeling it out with the bigger front bar and rear connected.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Fwiw I run the BMR bar on middle and a rear bar stiffer than stock GT PP1.

the rear bar was needed to balance the stiffer front. I want transition rate, not understeer, and I don’t want rear grip for corner exit which comes at the expense of mid corner rotation. I need it to point and get around early, not accelerate hard but after a slow corner.

have run both front-only and rear only bar setups (i.e with stock bars on the other end) and yeah you have to peddle the crap out of a stiffer rear bar on corner exit, but it can make up the time in other places.

Start thinking about aero if you’re serious about competing at the top. You want to be fast in the fastest sections and thats where it comes into play.

 

[Dallas J]

Its a bit hard to compare without knowing your spring rates or ride frequencies and if you're running square or stagger tires.

My driving style is very much a function having raced AWD for 20yrs, so I want to be aggressive on corner exit. For that aspect, there are definitely two ways to skin that cat. Would be cool to make an active rear bar that adjusts maybe based on throttle or speed.

I am looking for a spare trunk lid to make wing mounts and swap over the Evo/Ciro wing. That one is pretty high on my priority list, at least for major winter changes. Ciro doesn't make (or I haven't found it) a mustang specific mount so since I already have a wing I'm gonna make my own.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Its a bit hard to compare without knowing your spring rates or ride frequencies and if you're running square or stagger tires.

My driving style is very much a function having raced AWD for 20yrs, so I want to be aggressive on corner exit. For that aspect, there are definitely two ways to skin that cat. Would be cool to make an active rear bar that adjusts maybe based on throttle or speed.

I am looking for a spare trunk lid to make wing mounts and swap over the Evo/Ciro wing. That one is pretty high on my priority list, at least for major winter changes. Ciro doesn't make (or I haven't found it) a mustang specific mount so since I already have a wing I'm gonna make my own.

as they say, they’re more than one (or two) ways to skin a cat.

the OS Giken diff tuned by Lugod @ Shaftworks can get some of that corner exit grip beyond what a T2R torsen will deliver, without neutering the rear swaybar.

 

[WItoTX]

Over the weekend I go the opportunity to drive a FS Camaro SS1LE. I know several in this thread have had the opportunity, but I have to say, even with my ham footed approach, which worked really well in the Voodoo, the car is incredibly capable.



The clutch engagement, the power curve, the brakes, everything is so wildly different. And the diff is next level above the torsen. It's now got me considering the Gilken, especially with @NightmareMoon feedback on the diff. The ability of that car to rotate around a corner is next level. I was able to enter corners at a speed I would consider way too fast, only for the car to bend physics and take me around the corner. By way of example, I was a full 5 mph faster than even the CAMC cars around this corner:

Anyways, I paxxed 5th overall, I was 1.5 full seconds ahead of the 2nd place FS car, and 2/10ths ahead of the CAMC cars.

No matter how one slices it, the SS1LE is a phenomenal car. But for what it is worth, I'd still take the GT350 over it.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I hate a chance to drive one a while back and yeah that e-diff is cool and definitely an advantage.

As you said I think its super strong carving around a certain radius corner. I think the Giken is strongest on exit, but I think I will need to drive them back to back.

That is why I switched diffs though, the ediff is just such an advantage, wanted to try to claw some of that back. There's an autocross tune available for them too which supposedly is only active in 2nd gear, which I hear is legal in FS now?

 

[WItoTX]

I hate a chance to drive one a while back and yeah that e-diff is cool and definitely an advantage.

As you said I think its super strong carving around a certain radius corner. I think the Giken is strongest on exit, but I think I will need to drive them back to back.

That is why I switched diffs though, the ediff is just such an advantage, wanted to try to claw some of that back. There's an autocross tune available for them too which supposedly is only active in 2nd gear, which I hear is legal in FS now?

Yes on legal in FS. And from what I understand, it was a complete game changer.

Maybe next time in Beeville I need to catch a ride with you to feel out the Gilken. If it's better than the E-diff, I can only imagine how your car turns in.

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