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NightmareMoon
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Well shoot. That GT350 drivetrain’s Tremec wasnt as good of a deal as I had hoped. The shifter shaft is fubar. The salvage yard says they’ll help out some.
That explains my leaking transmission fluid.
That explains my leaking transmission fluid.
shogun32
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just put it in a vise and put a bit of round rod on the one side. Heat to a dull red. Well, that's what my uncle Jeb learned me. He does all his tractor rods that way.
But ya gotta 'sum bitch' and spit chaw for it to werk good.How much for a new one?
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Dunno yet. Hard to price trans internals. I mean you probably could bend it straight enough for the seal to work, but its buried in there pretty deep.just put it in a vise and put a bit of round rod on the one side. Heat to a dull red. Well, that's what my uncle Jeb learned me. He does all his tractor rods that way.
How much for a new one?
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
To catch up a bit.
New shiter rod was < $200, labor was the main cost but much cheaper than a new trans. Shop did a good job and it shifts much nicer now without a bent rod (and no leaks!)
but right after getting it back it developed low oil pressure and some odd sounds around the timing chain area. I started a thread on that in the GT350 engine subforum. Long story short, we had to open the engine and clean out a huge mess from bad timing chain tensioner guides which were shedding material, and disgnosing that we got a good look into the oil pan and there were sparkles, so the car got new bearings.
i just got it back after a long wait and it seems 100% fixed. With 5w30 in there (temporary) oil pressure was 85+ at anything above 2k rpm and the noise is gone. We found a bad rod bearing.
while it was down and the subframe was out I also replace the front control arms for cracked bushings on the big ones and one shifting joint on the smaller ones.
Its dirty as hell but its back baby! That said. Second round of repairs are a lot more expensive than the trans repairs.
so I’m gonna try to cram in 500 miles of break in driving and at least one or two oil changes to make sure everything is nicely flushed out, and at least one diff fluid change (break in change) for the new diff and try to run it at the first event of the year in a couple weeks.
New shiter rod was < $200, labor was the main cost but much cheaper than a new trans. Shop did a good job and it shifts much nicer now without a bent rod (and no leaks!)
but right after getting it back it developed low oil pressure and some odd sounds around the timing chain area. I started a thread on that in the GT350 engine subforum. Long story short, we had to open the engine and clean out a huge mess from bad timing chain tensioner guides which were shedding material, and disgnosing that we got a good look into the oil pan and there were sparkles, so the car got new bearings.
i just got it back after a long wait and it seems 100% fixed. With 5w30 in there (temporary) oil pressure was 85+ at anything above 2k rpm and the noise is gone. We found a bad rod bearing.
while it was down and the subframe was out I also replace the front control arms for cracked bushings on the big ones and one shifting joint on the smaller ones.
Its dirty as hell but its back baby! That said. Second round of repairs are a lot more expensive than the trans repairs.
so I’m gonna try to cram in 500 miles of break in driving and at least one or two oil changes to make sure everything is nicely flushed out, and at least one diff fluid change (break in change) for the new diff and try to run it at the first event of the year in a couple weeks.
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WItoTX
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WItoTX
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Not saying this is the case for you, but I have sparkles every oil change. I did oil analysis on every one of them, told the analysis company what I was seeing, and they said they are not seeing it in the analysis. They asked for pictures of everything, retested samples, etc...nothing came up.To catch up a bit.
New shiter rod was < $200, labor was the main cost but much cheaper than a new trans. Shop did a good job and it shifts much nicer now without a bent rod (and no leaks!)
but right after getting it back it developed low oil pressure and some odd sounds around the timing chain area. I started a thread on that in the GT350 engine subforum. Long story short, we had to open the engine and clean out a huge mess from bad timing chain tensioner guides which were shedding material, and disgnosing that we got a good look into the oil pan and there were sparkles, so the car got new bearings.
i just got it back after a long wait and it seems 100% fixed. With 5w30 in there (temporary) oil pressure was 85+ at anything above 2k rpm and the noise is gone. We found a bad rod bearing.
while it was down and the subframe was out I also replace the front control arms for cracked bushings on the big ones and one shifting joint on the smaller ones.
Its dirty as hell but its back baby! That said. Second round of repairs are a lot more expensive than the trans repairs.
so I’m gonna try to cram in 500 miles of break in driving and at least one or two oil changes to make sure everything is nicely flushed out, and at least one diff fluid change (break in change) for the new diff and try to run it at the first event of the year in a couple weeks.
It turned out to be an additive in the oil that can only be seen when the oil is somewhere between new and really well used (black), which is when I change my oil (Usually 8 hours of track/AutoX time). I've had this issue, a couple other friends, some with the 5.0, some with Camaro's, some with Corvettes, all found the same issue. Then I did some digging on TMO, and turns out a lot of other guys had the same issue, and came to a similar conclusion.
Anyways, I hope the saga of the Voodoo get's less dramatic, definitely painful to read about.
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Ran about 13-14 runs (we lost count of the reruns) today at a local event. Finished 10/150 in PAX which is about normal for me with this club.
couple small things to chase (some belt-like squeal at 6k but not above or below, and I think a misfire code).
solostorm had me at 67.5 mph (gps I assume) at 8000 rpm with 3.73s, tremec in 2nd gear and half worn 315/30/18 A052s.
I think the OS Giken diff is interesting. Definigely feels like less one-wheel-peel exitting corners. I dialed a couple more degrees of rebound on the rear shocks which helped a little with mid corner rotation but I was too timid and busy to just add more rear swaybar. Corner exit was fun to drive in attack mode. I get the appeal but I have some learning curve.
i was concerned the low end torque of the voodoo would disappoint but on this pretty fast local course, corner grip in the slower corners was more of a limit than acceleration, so thats good.
This Zebulon wing is huge.
I yeeted it over some train tracks a bit too fast after the event and smashed up my splitter a bit on landing. Rods broke, flapped against the ground at speed. I can highly recommend the Professional Awesome splitter rods and QD hardware. The rods broke but they broke the ‘right’ way, and saved the hardpoints, and the QD mounts were held solid. I had spare rod material in the car, and pulled over in a Lowes parking lot (of all places) with a jack and stand in the car, which basically means if I didnt go home with the splitter properly redneck fixed it was my choice. I elected to try a $3 bag of zipties for rods, and can confirm that I make more than 4x zipties worth of downforce at 60mph.
Instead of buying *enough* tools to fix it in the parking lot I elected to pop it off and send it home with a friend’s truck for a proper fix this week. I should learn how to tie a proper knot, because I could have driven it home with a decent rope replacing the rods I think.
couple small things to chase (some belt-like squeal at 6k but not above or below, and I think a misfire code).
solostorm had me at 67.5 mph (gps I assume) at 8000 rpm with 3.73s, tremec in 2nd gear and half worn 315/30/18 A052s.
I think the OS Giken diff is interesting. Definigely feels like less one-wheel-peel exitting corners. I dialed a couple more degrees of rebound on the rear shocks which helped a little with mid corner rotation but I was too timid and busy to just add more rear swaybar. Corner exit was fun to drive in attack mode. I get the appeal but I have some learning curve.
i was concerned the low end torque of the voodoo would disappoint but on this pretty fast local course, corner grip in the slower corners was more of a limit than acceleration, so thats good.
This Zebulon wing is huge.
I yeeted it over some train tracks a bit too fast after the event and smashed up my splitter a bit on landing. Rods broke, flapped against the ground at speed. I can highly recommend the Professional Awesome splitter rods and QD hardware. The rods broke but they broke the ‘right’ way, and saved the hardpoints, and the QD mounts were held solid. I had spare rod material in the car, and pulled over in a Lowes parking lot (of all places) with a jack and stand in the car, which basically means if I didnt go home with the splitter properly redneck fixed it was my choice. I elected to try a $3 bag of zipties for rods, and can confirm that I make more than 4x zipties worth of downforce at 60mph.
Instead of buying *enough* tools to fix it in the parking lot I elected to pop it off and send it home with a friend’s truck for a proper fix this week. I should learn how to tie a proper knot, because I could have driven it home with a decent rope replacing the rods I think.
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Thats the idea!
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mavisky
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Trying to convince the wife to greenlight a MSC dual adjustment setup with remote reservoirs. May be listing my current setup to underwriter part of the upgrade costs.
Biggsy
Well-Known Member
Still trying to feel out the dog before you provide feedback on it?Ran about 13-14 runs (we lost count of the reruns) today at a local event. Finished 10/150 in PAX which is about normal for me with this club.
couple small things to chase (some belt-like squeal at 6k but not above or below, and I think a misfire code).
solostorm had me at 67.5 mph (gps I assume) at 8000 rpm with 3.73s, tremec in 2nd gear and half worn 315/30/18 A052s.
I think the OS Giken diff is interesting. Definigely feels like less one-wheel-peel exitting corners. I dialed a couple more degrees of rebound on the rear shocks which helped a little with mid corner rotation but I was too timid and busy to just add more rear swaybar. Corner exit was fun to drive in attack mode. I get the appeal but I have some learning curve.
i was concerned the low end torque of the voodoo would disappoint but on this pretty fast local course, corner grip in the slower corners was more of a limit than acceleration, so thats good.
This Zebulon wing is huge.
I yeeted it over some train tracks a bit too fast after the event and smashed up my splitter a bit on landing. Rods broke, flapped against the ground at speed. I can highly recommend the Professional Awesome splitter rods and QD hardware. The rods broke but they broke the ‘right’ way, and saved the hardpoints, and the QD mounts were held solid. I had spare rod material in the car, and pulled over in a Lowes parking lot (of all places) with a jack and stand in the car, which basically means if I didnt go home with the splitter properly redneck fixed it was my choice. I elected to try a $3 bag of zipties for rods, and can confirm that I make more than 4x zipties worth of downforce at 60mph.
Instead of buying *enough* tools to fix it in the parking lot I elected to pop it off and send it home with a friend’s truck for a proper fix this week. I should learn how to tie a proper knot, because I could have driven it home with a decent rope replacing the rods I think.
mavisky
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Yea i know an owner who just upgraded to the triple adjustables.
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