SCCA CAM-C Thread

[Biggsy]

Doesn’t futura use tie downs like that?

https://www.futuratrailers.com/product/tie-down-set/?variant=43998562975897

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[WItoTX]

Awesome, thanks Biggsy, I will give them a call later.

Mavisky,

That is sort of my fall back option. With as low as my car is, finding a d loop that is low profile enough that the ratchet, or the buckets, don't contact my car has been a struggle.

I have 4 different sets of tie downs right now. All of them, with the exception of the single point tie downs, make contact with my car somewhere, which is my concern going with a track system. I think I can make the futura style ones work (And I finally found some from Big Muddy that might work).

The issue with the single points is I need to use the hell out of my parking brake, or the car moves a good 6" when I hit the brakes. Which sucks driving through Dallas, or any big city for that matter.

 

[Biggsy]

Awesome, thanks Biggsy, I will give them a call later.

Mavisky,

That is sort of my fall back option. With as low as my car is, finding a d loop that is low profile enough that the ratchet, or the buckets, don't contact my car has been a struggle.

I have 4 different sets of tie downs right now. All of them, with the exception of the single point tie downs, make contact with my car somewhere, which is my concern going with a track system. I think I can make the futura style ones work (And I finally found some from Big Muddy that might work).

The issue with the single points is I need to use the hell out of my parking brake, or the car moves a good 6" when I hit the brakes. Which sucks driving through Dallas, or any big city for that matter.

Are you going through the wheels currently? Or chassis?

 

[WItoTX]

Are you going through the wheels currently? Or chassis?

Single points, so they loop behind the wheel.

I am debating adding axle straps to the rear, but the Owners Manual specifically says to use wheel crib style tie downs, which these technically are.

I actually think the versatrack is probably the best option. It just requires more work to get the track set up properly, the hooks in front and rear of the wheels are going to be awful close to hitting the splitter, and I don't really like having my tires on the track itself. Maybe I just need to get over that part of it.

 

[mavisky]

For what it's worth the GT500 guys on this other forum I'm on have a lot of discussions about trailer setup for towing. More so than I've ever seen on this site.

https://www.fordgt500.com/threads/s...-trailer.205249/?post_id=2950192#post-2950192

 

[Biggsy]

Single points, so they loop behind the wheel.

I am debating adding axle straps to the rear, but the Owners Manual specifically says to use wheel crib style tie downs, which these technically are.

I actually think the versatrack is probably the best option. It just requires more work to get the track set up properly, the hooks in front and rear of the wheels are going to be awful close to hitting the splitter, and I don't really like having my tires on the track itself. Maybe I just need to get over that part of it.

I’m not a car hauling expert but if you don’t already, maybe switched to AJ’s compressible rods which I think are standard but get the ones with the locking pin to keep the splitter in the raised position. Get some pool noodle foam and place it on the edge of the splitter where the straps may make contact. Similar to the Hellcat splitter look when owners keep that yellow foam on.

 

[WItoTX]

I’m not a car hauling expert but if you don’t already, maybe switched to AJ’s compressible rods which I think are standard but get the ones with the locking pin to keep the splitter in the raised position. Get some pool noodle foam and place it on the edge of the splitter where the straps may make contact. Similar to the Hellcat splitter look when owners keep that yellow foam on.

The issue is the back of the splitter, immediately in front of the wheels. AJ splitter rods are slick though, I wish they were available when I bought mine since my splitter pucks still touch. Luckily those titanium pucks wear so well, it's a non-issue.

I should have taken photo's when I strapped the wheel on. I did just have the ephiany of cutting a small board that is ONLY under the front wheels themselves, which would fix my issue. Not sure why I didn't think of this before. Testing begins this weekend LOL

 

[kz]

For the car moving - I am generally little paranoid when I tow - I have two sets of rubber chocks I put in front / behind the wheels of the car and tie a small ratchet strap around them - that limits the movement and is a bit of a safeguard if one of the tie down straps failed. I used those chocks for trailer while loading/unloading the car.

I am using Ford Performance tie down points in the front and ZL1 add ons in the rear - Mac straps and I had some freedom on positioning the d-rings on the trailer since it's a wooden deck - so nothing is in contact.

 

[mavisky]

I have the sort of mid-pack version of AJ's splitter rods. They're the spring loaded ones, but not the ones with the lockout for travel. They still work great though.

The only downside to them is that my splitter wasn't designed with them in mind so it's hard for me to get the angle of attack I want with them as I need to push the nose of my splitter down a bit and with the spring loaded section I can't do that. I have to basically get it close to where I want it and then let airflow "pull" the splitter to the appropriate angle at speed. I am losing out on some downforce at lower speeds for sure due to this which isn't great for autocross but I just need to re-design the mounting system. It needs a post-season re-fresh anyway.

 

[webspoke]

These are my trailer tie down points using he FP chassis tie downs. front straps live under the splitter. You do need a pretty forward set of tie downs, maybe at least 2ft in front of the nose/splitter.

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[Dana Pants]

We had a nasty rain event yesterday. I ended up 3rd in pax and the two who beat me were on full tread depth yokos. I was on yokos half way through the wear bars. Below me was an ECS02, and then a wasteland of people on any other tire getting absolutely destroyed.

surprisingly, the BMR monster rear swaybar on full stiff still seems to be fine under such conditions.

My fastest run in the wetter of the two heats:

 

[NightmareMoon]

We had a nasty rain event yesterday. I ended up 3rd in pax and the two who beat me were on full tread depth yokos. I was on yokos half way through the wear bars. Below me was an ECS02, and then a wasteland of people on any other tire getting absolutely destroyed.

surprisingly, the BMR monster rear swaybar on full stiff still seems to be fine under such conditions.

My fastest run in the wetter of the two heats:

Tires matter so much more than everything else. You’d probably be faster with less swaybar and/or spring rate in those conditions but yeah, the soft sidewalled yokes soak up a lot on a stiffly sprung car.

Your passenger enjoyed that!

 

[kz]

After todays event I had brake fluid (or fluid but pretty sure it's brake fluid) all over top of the master cylinder - cap leaking due to bad seal ? Cap was tight.

Anybody had anything similar ?

 

[tosha]

After todays event I had brake fluid (or fluid but pretty sure it's brake fluid) all over top of the master cylinder - cap leaking due to bad seal ? Cap was tight.

Anybody had anything similar ?

Any chance it was over max level due to overfill or after installing new pads?

 

[kz]

Any chance it was over max level due to overfill or after installing new pads?

None. I looked last night - the rubber seal/gasket that sits in the cap got sucked out into the master cylinder - that's probably what caused the leak.

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