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SCCA CAM-C Thread

WItoTX

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Well, I FINALLY chased down my DSC issue, after 8 months. It was an issue of running a LiPo battery in the car. I think I was asking way too much of the battery with the mag ride. For yesterday's event, I also got some help with DSC tuning, battery relocated to the spare wheel well, and new tires. The result was a top 5 pax at our local event this weekend.

Lesson learned. Actually figure out how much electricity my car needs before buying a relatively new tech battery. :cwl:

Unrelated, if you are running a non MR car, I have a LiPo battery for sale, 10 months old, and comes with a LiPo maintainer (Optimate).
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webspoke

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Well, I FINALLY chased down my DSC issue, after 8 months. It was an issue of running a LiPo battery in the car. I think I was asking way too much of the battery with the mag ride. For yesterday's event, I also got some help with DSC tuning, battery relocated to the spare wheel well, and new tires. The result was a top 5 pax at our local event this weekend.

Lesson learned. Actually figure out how much electricity my car needs before buying a relatively new tech battery. :cwl:

Unrelated, if you are running a non MR car, I have a LiPo battery for sale, 10 months old, and comes with a LiPo maintainer (Optimate).
Good to know it was a straight forward fix.
 

WItoTX

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Good to know it was a straight forward fix.
Man, I wish. I was assured multiple times by AntiGravity, that their battery would be more than sufficient. Well since AG said it was good, DSC told me it was good, I relied on them. So I was checking DSC tunes, pulling dyno plug, basically forcing the car to comply (with no shocks), for 8 months. A local guy here had been telling me from day one of my issues, LiPo is not going to work. But he was the only one.

I spoke with a few people who are big into DSC about a month ago, and they said ditch the LiPo. So I called AG and asked how they concluded the battery was enough (After I calculated the electrical demand in my car). The guy I was talking to said "yeah, I probably wouldn't run that battery in your car. If you didn't have Magride, it would likely be fine. But not with magride". Which confirms several discussions I've had with M6G members, several of which post on this thread.

Frustrating, but I share in the hope others don't need to repeat my mistakes. Because the AG site says the ATX-20-HD will work for my car.
 

kz

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I've been using AG battery and never ever had a slightest issue - however - I have H5/group 47 which is automotive sized and slightly heavier than the tiny ATX ones - basically fits in the standard battery box. I do charge it regularly with the CTEK charger.

This was nothing more than my laziness not wanting to deal with mounting the ATX one which is not really in true spirit of CAM (man, I think I more belong in like street class) but may ironically have paid off here...
 

kz

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btw - there will be CAM Invitational in Lincoln and it will be on Saturday before Nats (so during Pro Finale). Not sure who else here is going to Nats except Nighmaremoon but in case anyone is interested.

Pretty hard to do with CAM-C being Th/Fr.
 

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NightmareMoon

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Man, I wish. I was assured multiple times by AntiGravity, that their battery would be more than sufficient. Well since AG said it was good, DSC told me it was good, I relied on them. So I was checking DSC tunes, pulling dyno plug, basically forcing the car to comply (with no shocks), for 8 months. A local guy here had been telling me from day one of my issues, LiPo is not going to work. But he was the only one.

I spoke with a few people who are big into DSC about a month ago, and they said ditch the LiPo. So I called AG and asked how they concluded the battery was enough (After I calculated the electrical demand in my car). The guy I was talking to said "yeah, I probably wouldn't run that battery in your car. If you didn't have Magride, it would likely be fine. But not with magride". Which confirms several discussions I've had with M6G members, several of which post on this thread.

Frustrating, but I share in the hope others don't need to repeat my mistakes. Because the AG site says the ATX-20-HD will work for my car.
So glad you figured it out! My Braille G30 has held up well (23k miles and 2+ years so far), but I don't have magnaride taxing the system. I was most worried about it a year ago when I left it parked for a month while I took the daily on a long trip. Started right back up first try. They say it should last 10 years. Well, we'll see about that.
 

NightmareMoon

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btw - there will be CAM Invitational in Lincoln and it will be on Saturday before Nats (so during Pro Finale). Not sure who else here is going to Nats except Nighmaremoon but in case anyone is interested.

Pretty hard to do with CAM-C being Th/Fr.
Yeah, I was not planning on showing up that early. hmm. Cam challenge was fun a couple years ago, but IDK man, I might skip it with it being on saturday.
 

kz

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Yeah, I was not planning on showing up that early. hmm. Cam challenge was fun a couple years ago, but IDK man, I might skip it with it being on saturday.
I am not sure how it's going to work - info is straight from Raleigh (and I've heard about it before) - supposedly they're waiting with announcement for Pro Finale registration but at that point (if not now) everyone has travel plans already figured out. And for CAM-C this basically makes the entire affair week and half long.
Lastly, Pro Finale is IMO more fun and I intend on running that if I can get in (and should be as I will get tier 2 registration).
 

mustanghammer

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I going and curently I am scheduled to get there on Sunday. Travel is pretty easy coming from KC. So I could add a day to my Hotel or camp out in my trailer for a day. Thanks for the heads up
 

kz

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I going and curently I am scheduled to get there on Sunday. Travel is pretty easy coming from KC. So I could add a day to my Hotel or camp out in my trailer for a day. Thanks for the heads up
You will need a code to register from Raleigh or Velma (that's what he told me) but be on the lookout for registration.
 

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Dana Pants

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It seems like no matter what intake temps are 130F after one run sitting in grid, even if they are 90F and the end of the run. The outcome is that I have low power and a flat throttle for the first ~10 seconds of the run.

Having the hood open and spraying the intake does not solve or even really improve the situation. I suspect the exhaust and engine are nuking the airbox with radiation.

$100 in heat shield later I have this piece of artwork. Will report next week if this actually does anything.

IMG_9140.jpeg
 

mustanghammer

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My guess is that the heat barrier will make a difference. I use that stuff all over my RX7 (entire intake system, floor boards, trans tunnel, etc.) to manage exhaust heat and it works great. Also noticed the wide spread use of that stuff and the gold reflective material on the factory Boss 302s at an IMSA race. Report back!
 

mustanghammer

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So I enjoy killing cones with my personal car, but I had the opportunity to do a ChumpCar race this weekend. It was stupid fun.
Some of the most fun I have ever had were the door to door, nose to tail races with other cars when I was racing in SCCA Improved Touring. It didn't matter that all I had was a 100HP because the other cars didn't have much more. I miss those days
 

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200 hp maybe and fwd. 110 mph in the draft. It couldn't have been more entertaining.
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