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SCCA CAM-C Thread

NightmareMoon

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That's my left front strut to knuckle joint.... Upper bolt had a nut half way down the thread (completely loose - it's tightened on the pic), bottom one (out of focus) had no nut at all.

I looked this evening at all front joints because of slight rattle over the bumps at low speed last weekend. This also makes for somewhat variable camber (struts were slotted for FS back in the day and bolts are non-splined service ones) and therefore toe....

Really should have been better about making sure car is mechanically sound before the season but was lazy and stupid.

PXL_20230429_001128170.MP.jpg
BTDT. Glad the bolts were splined!
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tosha

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That's my left front strut to knuckle joint.... Upper bolt had a nut half way down the thread (completely loose - it's tightened on the pic), bottom one (out of focus) had no nut at all.

I looked this evening at all front joints because of slight rattle over the bumps at low speed last weekend. This also makes for somewhat variable camber (struts were slotted for FS back in the day and bolts are non-splined service ones) and therefore toe....

Really should have been better about making sure car is mechanically sound before the season but was lazy and stupid.

PXL_20230429_001128170.MP.jpg
Yes those need to be checked from time to time, I had the same 😱 moment with mine.. I paint marked them after all, so if they start moving I catch it early. Check them every time I flush brakes before every event.
 

kz

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Yes those need to be checked from time to time, I had the same 😱 moment with mine.. I paint marked them after all, so if they start moving I catch it early. Check them every time I flush brakes before every event.
They're technically single use (both bolts and nuts) but don't think anyone throws them away. I called Lebanon Ford today (who has to be doing shitton of lowering springs on their cars) and parts guy said he never sold a single one.
 

Gearz

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Wow! I'm glad they're essentially pressed in bolts but dang. I typically try to give everything a visual inspection whenever I pull the tire off. I've found loose or broken swaybar endlinks (not on my GT350) and broken suspension ride height sensors (on my GT350, twice). I'll check the torque on those nuts next time I change tires. Thanks!
 

tosha

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They're technically single use (both bolts and nuts) but don't think anyone throws them away. I called Lebanon Ford today (who has to be doing shitton of lowering springs on their cars) and parts guy said he never sold a single one.
Yep, I had them replaced after this. In my case, one nut was completely missing, another one hanging on last threads, one of the bolts started coming out. Other side was undertorqued. In my case it probably was mechanic error when doing springs, but I'm paranoid about these bolts now.
 

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mavisky

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Well Atlanta Motorsports Park decided to have an autocross event today using part of their skid pad and some grid area. Tiny lot that never saw me get out if first gear but still had enough course to make a 41 second course. Definitely a new experience, but with all the Steeda suspension goodies I took down first place in the weird class structure they had, but most importantly took 2nd overall on raw time and only lost to a 1500lb CRX on slicks. Have to say I'm very impressed with the stability and rotation I can get out of this steeda setup while still on the stock magneride struts and programming.

There were two casualties however, part of the course had a rather large dip and my Longacre splitter rods (which need to be about 2" longer) decided they'd had enough of this whole bottoming out the splitter shit.

20230429_114829.jpg
 

NightmareMoon

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There were two casualties however, part of the course had a rather large dip and my Longacre splitter rods (which need to be about 2" longer) decided they'd had enough of this whole bottoming out the splitter shit.
i have some Professional Awesome rods and carry extra rod material to events in case I frag one. Its happened. Kinda predictable even.

Pic from today’s first outting with the wing on the car.

IMG_5755.jpeg
 

mavisky

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i have some Professional Awesome rods and carry extra rod material to events in case I frag one. Its happened. Kinda predictable even.

Pic from today’s first outting with the wing on the car.

IMG_5755.jpeg
Car looks great. I have spare ends at home. Looking into thr spring loaded units from AJ Hartman as my next set.
 

VictorH

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For those of you who like your car set up, what have you done to help get the car to rotate?
I'm a track guy and recently added 325 in lb springs up front and 1,000 in lb springs in the rear with a lighter rear sway bar, running stock tires sizes front and rear (305, 315). Problem is, I can't get my car to rotate into corners now, there's just too much rear bite. In the rain it's fine, but when the track is dry, the car doesn't rotate into the turns, and I just get more understeer. Any ideas as to how I fix that?
 

TeeLew

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That's my left front strut to knuckle joint.... Upper bolt had a nut half way down the thread (completely loose - it's tightened on the pic), bottom one (out of focus) had no nut at all.

I looked this evening at all front joints because of slight rattle over the bumps at low speed last weekend. This also makes for somewhat variable camber (struts were slotted for FS back in the day and bolts are non-splined service ones) and therefore toe....

Really should have been better about making sure car is mechanically sound before the season but was lazy and stupid.

PXL_20230429_001128170.MP.jpg

You caught it, so you could have been more lazy.
 

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TeeLew

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For those of you who like your car set up, what have you done to help get the car to rotate?
I'm a track guy and recently added 325 in lb springs up front and 1,000 in lb springs in the rear with a lighter rear sway bar, running stock tires sizes front and rear (305, 315). Problem is, I can't get my car to rotate into corners now, there's just too much rear bite. In the rain it's fine, but when the track is dry, the car doesn't rotate into the turns, and I just get more understeer. Any ideas as to how I fix that?
There's a good chance much of it could be addressed with driving, but what's the rest of the setup?
 

VictorH

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Would tend to agree with your statement, but the car used to rotate and now it doesn't. Plus I was using a driving coach (Peter Krause, who is excellent BTW) and we had full telemetry on my car and it was his conclusion as well.
Hellwig front bar with adjustment on the middle hole, this is a change from prior, from stock front.
Ecoboost rear sway bar, as opposed to running no bar before.
Ride height now 1/2" lower in front, which is new since the addition of the front springs, just couldn't get it up to prior height with a whole bunch of shims.
Rest of suspension, just bushings and such were not changed.
Alignment no change from prior track sessions. -3.2 front camber, front toe 1/16" out, couldn't quite get to zero in the time we had, rear is stock toe, 1.75 neg camber.
That's about it. Would be interested to hear your thoughts.
 

TeeLew

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Would tend to agree with your statement, but the car used to rotate and now it doesn't. Plus I was using a driving coach (Peter Krause, who is excellent BTW) and we had full telemetry on my car and it was his conclusion as well.
Hellwig front bar with adjustment on the middle hole, this is a change from prior, from stock front.
Ecoboost rear sway bar, as opposed to running no bar before.
Ride height now 1/2" lower in front, which is new since the addition of the front springs, just couldn't get it up to prior height with a whole bunch of shims.
Rest of suspension, just bushings and such were not changed.
Alignment no change from prior track sessions. -3.2 front camber, front toe 1/16" out, couldn't quite get to zero in the time we had, rear is stock toe, 1.75 neg camber.
That's about it. Would be interested to hear your thoughts.
Did Peter drive the car?
 

NightmareMoon

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For those of you who like your car set up, what have you done to help get the car to rotate?
I'm a track guy and recently added 325 in lb springs up front and 1,000 in lb springs in the rear with a lighter rear sway bar, running stock tires sizes front and rear (305, 315). Problem is, I can't get my car to rotate into corners now, there's just too much rear bite. In the rain it's fine, but when the track is dry, the car doesn't rotate into the turns, and I just get more understeer. Any ideas as to how I fix that?
stock tire sizes in front you say?
 

VictorH

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Did Peter drive the car? No

stock tire sizes in front you say? Yes, 305/30/19 front and 315/30/19 rear
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