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TeeLew

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yes, S197 = 05-14 mustang chassis (stick axle)
This is what OSG offers https://osgikenusa.com/collections/lsd/ford . They don't state that _any_ of these were for the live rear (excepting 9 inch options). You clearly have the S550 Super 8.8 version. There are 2 other versions available which fit the 8.8 IRS with both 31 & 28 spline options. OSG told me these were *not* for the Super. Maybe they are & the rep was incorrect, that's entirely possible. In short, though, this is what is causing my confusion.
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TeeLew

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I just picked up extended ball joint front control arms and tie rod ends off the marketplace. So the guy that has praised the SuperPro Poly bushings is going to use the Steeda monoball arrangement.

In my experience, roll center changes are generally most apparent in transitions, which is also what you'd expect of the bushings vs. monoball. I really don't think I'll be able to parse the difference between the roll center change and bushing stiffness in terms of performance, but I hope to be able to give some reasonable NVH feedback in going from Poly to a monoball.
 

Brian@BMVK

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I just picked up extended ball joint front control arms and tie rod ends off the marketplace. So the guy that has praised the SuperPro Poly bushings is going to use the Steeda monoball arrangement.

In my experience, roll center changes are generally most apparent in transitions, which is also what you'd expect of the bushings vs. monoball. I really don't think I'll be able to parse the difference between the roll center change and bushing stiffness in terms of performance, but I hope to be able to give some reasonable NVH feedback in going from Poly to a monoball.
In my experience the lateral arms going to bearings have zero NVH change. The tension arms going to bearings create more road impact noise due to no longitudinal deflection.
 

NightmareMoon

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Old battery was old.

61FFB9B5-7D27-41CE-9D57-3112CFBB8CFE.jpeg
 

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NightmareMoon

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Weight ? I got OEM size AntiGravity (~8lb I think), problem is that those cars can't charge them properly (at least mine can't).
I didn’t weight the battery but it was -27 lbs compared to the led acid one. Internet says the G20 is ~6.3 lbs. we’ll see on the charging.
 
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NightmareMoon

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Thinking about getting that same battery. G30. Did you get the charger as well or don’t worry about that?
I got the charger because I wasn’t sure how reliable it would be. The car is a daily driver but you aren’t supposed to jump start these batteries so the charger was a small safety net. I also got their J hook bracket hold down (pictured) which is working out just fine.

So far its been solid, no issues with the Ford charging system so far and the car cranks over very quickly each time I start it. I was waiting to get an autocross or two at least before reporting back here but initial impressions are all positive.

guessing the charger may stay in the box for quite a while. They recommend it for cars that sit idle for long periods. For a daily I guess you shouldn’t need it.

battery box required some dremmel cutting to seat this slightly taller than stock battery but obviously it worked out. I can show you what I cut out if you’re curious.
 

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I got the charger because I wasn’t sure how reliable it would be. The car is a daily driver but you aren’t supposed to jump start these batteries so the charger was a small safety net. I also got their J hook bracket hold down (pictured) which is working out just fine.

So far its been solid, no issues with the Ford charging system so far and the car cranks over very quickly each time I start it. I was waiting to get an autocross or two at least before reporting back here but initial impressions are all positive.

guessing the charger may stay in the box for quite a while. They recommend it for cars that sit idle for long periods. For a daily I guess you shouldn’t need it.

battery box required some dremmel cutting to seat this slightly taller than stock battery but obviously it worked out. I can show you what I cut out if you’re curious.
Awesome, thanks for response. Can you still use the stock battery after your mods to the battery box? I use the lightweight for track and the stock battery for weekend play.
 

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NightmareMoon

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Awesome, thanks for response. Can you still use the stock battery after your mods to the battery box? I use the lightweight for track and the stock battery for weekend play.
yeah you certainly could swap. The mods I made wouldn’t be a problem for that. The factory hold-down wedge thing would still work and I think it would still probably support the weight of a stock battery I guess.
 

TeeLew

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Awesome, thanks for response. Can you still use the stock battery after your mods to the battery box? I use the lightweight for track and the stock battery for weekend play.
If you want to do that, put an Anderson plug on both batteries to make the swap easier.
 
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NightmareMoon

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Hotel booked and tires ordered for Solo Nationals. Been a few years, looking forward to getting back out to Lincoln.

295/35R19 RT660s are in stock at TireRack BTW.

My Camaro friend is trying the 305 Nankang CR-1 this weekend, should be interesting to get his impressions.
 

TeeLew

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I'm finally out of jail! Yay me!

New Shelby R Magneride struts are at the machine shop being turned into coil-overs. This has been an interesting little project.

My initial idea was to cut the spring perches off an OEM strut and somehow fasten a threaded sleeve over the strut to make it a coil-over of sorts to accept 2.5" ID springs. First problem, the ARB pickup is quite high on the strut body, which doesn't leave me a lot of room for spring length. This points me towards 6" springs, which isn't a huge problem, but those are shorter than I really want. I'm a fan of longer springs. This isn't a deal-breaker, though.

The next problem is the OD of the OEM strut. The 'slider' portion of the strut is 2.14 inches (54.35mm). In my head, that meant a 55mm Penske body would work nicely. Think again, dummy, that 55mm dimension is body OD, not piston OD. The piston is about 52mm. When you start stacking it all up, you figure out that this isn't going to work. I have to find a bigger damper body to use.

I played around with several options. I tried Pro, Afco and several other options, but anything for a 2 1/2" ID spring just wasn't going to work, so it was time to see if a bigger spring would be a reasonable option. Eibach and Hyperco both make 3" x 6" springs, but only Eibach has a reasonable rate selection (That's OK). I do feel as if I might be marginal on actual spring travel, which concerns me. With a 6" spring, I can only get ~ 3.5" of travel and the first ~2" is taken statically. Because of this, I would really prefer to run 8" springs, which would accommodate about 5" of total travel. OK, with that kind of addressed, I needed to figure out a damper which uses a big diameter body. I'm not used to anything that big.

I'm in Southern CA and it turns out that King Shocks is close to me. They make off-road/desert shocks. All of them are big (some are bloody massive). It turns out that one of the small-body shocks that they make is a threaded body, fits over the Magneride strut, and has nice, locking spring perches for 3" springs.

The fabricator and I were poking around the stock strut and he decided he could cut the stock ARB pickup off and weld it to the unthreaded portion of the new strut sleeve. He's going to put it a little lower than stock, which allows me more spring length, but short enough that I can use shortened, off-the-shelf end links.

For the upper perch, I'm going to use a Hyperco hydraulic perch similar to what I've done on the rear. I haven't really sorted that all out quite yet, but it shouldn't be too much of an ordeal. I'll provide pics of the struts when I've got them in hand, again. If anything, it's been kind of an interesting little project trying to pound a square peg in a round hole.
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