SCCA CAM-C Thread

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latest wet day here at NER suggests

1) Conti ECS
2) Yoko A052
3) everyone else shall die

as the order of tire preference in the wet.

I was on RT660 and it was miserable.
PS4S arguably better than those or at worst equal to Conti ECS in the wet.





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boardkat

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not arguably, they ARE faster in *all* wet conditions - take this from someone that's been running them for (4) seasons in the PNW, from 3" downpour (lincoln nats 2018) to damp/drying and everything in between. there's a reason a lot of one lap cars run them - much faster than the contis in the dry, too (and can actually take a bit of heat without fear of chunking). contis hate heavy cars, too.

also, @TeeLew - are you *seriously* thinking of adapting an S197 rear end for our chassis just to run a 3.15? there's a reason ford moved to the super 8.8 when they went to IRS on this chassis. everything is *substantially* larger and more stout. the solution is to run taller tires and bump your rev limiter. oh and i've tested everything from 3.31 to 4.11 - the 3.55 on a built NA 5.0 running E85 was the ticket i found that gave the best compromise across all course types, given the high revving (and the lack of low end torque) nature of the coyote. your path ends in tears ;)

edit: ah shit, you're one of those 4 banger types, nm the coyote commentary, but the rear end comments still hold :D
 
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TeeLew

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No, I guess I didn't explain that properly. I'm talking about a standard IRS 8.8 out of a V6 or Eco S550 with a 3.15 CWP. I'm not thinking of adapting a S197 housing. At the very least, I'm going to stick a 3.31 in it. It'll be an interesting test and it's what, $200 & some elbow grease? That's no biggie. Do you really think this is my first time picking a gear ratio?

I've got plenty of bottom end with my little 4-banger, but it runs out of breath on the top by 6200 RPM and I'm on the limiter at 6700. Bumping the limiter up would just blow the damned thing up sooner, lol! It drives exactly opposite of a Coyote. It actually reminds me of the 302 in my Fox from a hundred years ago. Shifting between 2nd & 3rd is not convenient or particularly fast. I'd be better off slightly over-geared than trying to figure out wear to shift while walking the course or during my first 2 runs.
 
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got confused when you contrasted the OSG options - because you definitely *cannot* run a super 8.8 giken with a 3.15 gearset, it simply won't fit in the diff carriage (and the regular 8.8 diff won't work) - but you're welcome to try and report back what i already discovered the hard way in 2015 :beer:

yeah, that's why i withdrew my comments when i saw you had an EB - instead of revs, you need to throw more boost at it, lol - much cheaper to rebuild than a coyote anyway :devil:
... and in that case, i can see why you covet the 3.15s, but the 3.31 will be great drop-in for your application, especially when paired with a set of 315/30R19 RT660s or some of the new contis on their way soon :)

protip: if you use the aluminum case, build yourself a case spreader, the tolerances are VERY tight and you won't be able to get the diff in/out otherwise. and you'll need a way to measure pinion depth; definitely not as easy as building a stick axle rear end.
 

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I'll stick to my recommendation of 3.31 and Torsen or Giken with your stock 2.3L 😝

Isn't yours the HPP with the closed deck and forged internals? Go bigger turbo and tune and let it go to 7500! It is CAM after all...
Well, yes & no. It hasn't been stock for a while. It's on E30 and has all the normal external crap changed. At this point, it's about as frisky as it's going to get without a new block.

I've learned the HPP thing is a bit of smoke & mirrors. It still has the open deck and none of the internals are any different from the base Eco. It does have a *slightly* bigger turbo, but most of the power difference between the base & HPP Eco is engine mapping. So even if I got a big turbo (& I've checked them out) the block limits my power. Once I blow it up, I'll get a closed deck, but that's for later (hopefully, lol).
 

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I know I can't run a (any flavor) diff for a Super 8.8 with a 3.15, but if you're saying the standard IRS 8.8 OSG doesn't work, then that's a bummer, because *they* (or at least whoever answers their phone) thinks it will & has told me wrong.

This type of info is why I'm floating the idea here, though. I know many of you have already jumped through these hoops & I'm trying to figure out what options really exist. If this one is a non-starter, then it's better to find out sooner rather than later.
 
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interesting - i've never actually test fit an S197 OSG in a super 8.8 because *they* told me it wouldn't work back then (i sent them a pile of parts to assemble a rear end in late 2014 that they then forwarded along to japan for r&d on what would become the option now available)

lucky for you, their US service/distribution is in your backyard - i'm sure jonathan (lugod) would have no problem with you popping by and confirming fitment.
 

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Well done, Ford. Well done. 🙄
Ya, the marketing team danced a fine line with this one. I still really like the car, but it would have been significantly less expensive to start with a base model for the build. I've changed out most of the things which were part of the suspension package and the biggest engine upgrade was a head gasket...

A bad-ass Eco long block runs about $6k, though, so the remedy isn't all that painful. One of the guys my engine tuner works with is making 800 HP. It's pretty impressive what's possible with a closed deck and there's a lot to be said for the lighter front end. Live & learn.
 

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When you say a S197, are you talking about the live rear or IRS? I don't really know much about them, but I wasn't aware of an IRS in the previous gen car.
 
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When you say a S197, are you talking about the live rear or IRS? I don't really know much about them, but I wasn't aware of an IRS in the previous gen car.
yes, S197 = 05-14 mustang chassis (stick axle)
what i can say is the extra factory trac-lok 8.8 diff i had lying around from my '13 GT looked MUCH different (smaller) than the OSG super 8.8 that they eventually sent me. unfortunately, i never took a pic, but sizing was completely different.
 

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From my understanding, the I. D. of the ring gear and the added differential size is the main difference between the Standard and Super. Also, I was under the impression that the tooth count of the taller gear made it necessary to have the smaller I. D..
 

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I'll stick to my recommendation of 3.31 and Torsen or Giken with your stock 2.3L 😝

Isn't yours the HPP with the closed deck and forged internals? Go bigger turbo and tune and let it go to 7500! It is CAM after all...
I really like the OS Giken unit in my car that has it.
I might be biased since, before the OSG, I was trying to autocross that car with a stock open diff and the 145hp I had was more than enough for a one-tire-fire.
With the OSG limited-slip, the car's handling is now very intuitive.
 

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yes, S197 = 05-14 mustang chassis (stick axle)
This is what OSG offers https://osgikenusa.com/collections/lsd/ford . They don't state that _any_ of these were for the live rear (excepting 9 inch options). You clearly have the S550 Super 8.8 version. There are 2 other versions available which fit the 8.8 IRS with both 31 & 28 spline options. OSG told me these were *not* for the Super. Maybe they are & the rep was incorrect, that's entirely possible. In short, though, this is what is causing my confusion.
 

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