New Engine Build/Route Advice

[Balneet2]

Hi all,
Recently my gen 3 block seized in a 2020 mustang gt with the 10r80 transmission. I took out the engine and opened it up and I believe that the car swallowed in someway 7 quarts of oil and spun rod bearings. The oil pan ended up with rod bearings shavings and the vct Solenoids and even the fuel pump roller had shavings around the oil passages. Now I am not that mechanically inclined in which I know exactly all my p's and q's about how to build an engine. Like measuring clearances for example. This is my first time pulling the motor out and directing it. My question is honestly with a ~ $17k budget, what would be my best route into forced induction? I was aiming for the Procharger due to the "roll racing king" aspect of it, but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The cam journals look a bit rough as well. But in all for this build what would be the best option to "reliably" run 750 - 800 wheel horsepower. Should I just buy a stock gen 3 long block from MMR and change minor things like oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket? Or should I buy a built short block and get my heads redone and find new Cams - which are fairly Expensive. What would be my best route for this? Machined factory Shortblock and just get that built by a shop with a new rotating assembly kit? I got quoted a rough very harsh estimate of $1,400 for balancing, and short block assembly with the mmr rotating assembly kit and the stock gen 3 short block. Im more worried about the heads and cams honestly. But the best route for forced induction and an engine for $17k will greatly be appreciated!


Thank you for any feedback!!!

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[Coyotebawl]

Care to share any pics of the carnage from tear down ? How many miles were on it when it let loose ?
What fuel are you planning on running on the new build ?

 

[Whitedevil95]

Sounds like you need an aluminator from Ford. You are going to need a complete fuel system as well to hit your power goals. Check out ESS Tuning for your blower options.

 

[SheepDog]

I wouldn't trust those heads. Maybe consider a built long block with your budget

https://rpgracingengines.com/product/rpg-2018-gen-3-5-0l-level-2-long-block/

 

[WItoTX]

You're going to start way higher with price than $17k for a built block from RPG. Once you add oil pan, and doing all the ancillary stuff worth doing with the engine off, you are north of $17k.

That said, I'd opt for the long block. If it requires saving ng a bit longer, I'd do it. Get all the weak points worked out, and not have to touch other bits on the motor while it's in the car.

I don't know I've helped make your decision. Sorry.

 

[SheepDog]

You're going to start way higher with price than $17k for a built block from RPG. Once you add oil pan, and doing all the ancillary stuff worth doing with the engine off, you are north of $17k.

That said, I'd opt for the long block. If it requires saving ng a bit longer, I'd do it. Get all the weak points worked out, and not have to touch other bits on the motor while it's in the car.

I don't know I've helped make your decision. Sorry.

Their long blocks come with an oil pan, Valve covers, rear cover, timing cover. You just need the accessories like water pump, alternator, pulleys etc.

 

[80FoxCoupe]

Hi all,
Recently my gen 3 block seized in a 2020 mustang gt with the 10r80 transmission. I took out the engine and opened it up and I believe that the car swallowed in someway 7 quarts of oil and spun rod bearings. The oil pan ended up with rod bearings shavings and the vct Solenoids and even the fuel pump roller had shavings around the oil passages. Now I am not that mechanically inclined in which I know exactly all my p's and q's about how to build an engine. Like measuring clearances for example. This is my first time pulling the motor out and directing it. My question is honestly with a ~ $17k budget, what would be my best route into forced induction? I was aiming for the Procharger due to the "roll racing king" aspect of it, but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The cam journals look a bit rough as well. But in all for this build what would be the best option to "reliably" run 750 - 800 wheel horsepower. Should I just buy a stock gen 3 long block from MMR and change minor things like oil pump gears and crankshaft sprocket? Or should I buy a built short block and get my heads redone and find new Cams - which are fairly Expensive. What would be my best route for this? Machined factory Shortblock and just get that built by a shop with a new rotating assembly kit? I got quoted a rough very harsh estimate of $1,400 for balancing, and short block assembly with the mmr rotating assembly kit and the stock gen 3 short block. Im more worried about the heads and cams honestly. But the best route for forced induction and an engine for $17k will greatly be appreciated!


Thank you for any feedback!!!

With that budget I'd do an aluminator shortblock from Levittown ($6100). Have a local machine shop look at the heads. If they are toast, Levittown has them for 850 each. You can install the heads and setup cams. Only reason not to do it is if you don't have the space, you hate money or make substantially more than shop rate.

Hit up @beefcake for Procharger P1X stage2, OPG/CS, head studs and fuel system of your choice.

 

[beefcake]

With that budget we can do our best and work with you on pricing and get you going on a package feel free to give me a call or shoot me a message

 

[WItoTX]

Their long blocks come with an oil pan, Valve covers, rear cover, timing cover. You just need the accessories like water pump, alternator, pulleys etc.

Yes. However I would suggest while you are in there, going to the GT500 oil pan. Which also means different OPG. And since going more robust, the GT500 starter, which handles heat better, then, since the motor is out, why not look at the clutch, and since it is out, why not headers, and since it is out, clutch line, and while it is out, CF driveshaft....you get what I am getting at...LOL at least that is what happened to me.

And then tuning starts.

 

[S550HPP]

I'd say either wrecker GT recycle $12K or $20K for flat plane then $40K for stout supercharged engine.

Lots of supercharged mustangs at the wreckers usually a snap out into a pole or rear ended someone.

Try midway mustang they have lots of engines.

 

[ModernSVO]

Yes. However I would suggest while you are in there, going to the GT500 oil pan. Which also means different OPG. And since going more robust, the GT500 starter, which handles heat better, then, since the motor is out, why not look at the clutch, and since it is out, why not headers, and since it is out, clutch line, and while it is out, CF driveshaft....you get what I am getting at...LOL at least that is what happened to me.

And then tuning starts.

Ah, the ole project creep. Blowing budgets since 1949

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