Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
The reason for lowering tire pressures for the track is because you're going to be working them a whole lot harder and they will heat up more and gain more pressure. If you're fussier and a bit more experienced, you would target a particular hot pressure (or pressures), once you find out what that/those pressures might be that make the car work the best. And after the day is done and the tires have had a chance to completely cool down, what you measure then will be the correct starting pressures, at least for that and similar ambient temperatures.
It's common in everyday driving for tires to gain 2 or 3 psi, and it's a very safe bet that the OEMs have taken that into consideration for their (32 psi in this case) tire pressure recommendations. A track session can easily add 5 or more psi.
I've found that staggering tire pressures a bit can help overall behavior. On a 32 psi all-around OE recommendation, for a FE/RWD car with its OE 'square' tire and wheel setup, I'd run 3 or 4 psi more up front (cold) than out back, with the front tires 2 or 3 psi above the 32.
Everything I've read about MagneRide tells me that it's supposed to provide a very good ride in 'Normal'. I suppose it could feel too soft if you're expecting a firm-ish ride.
Norm
It's common in everyday driving for tires to gain 2 or 3 psi, and it's a very safe bet that the OEMs have taken that into consideration for their (32 psi in this case) tire pressure recommendations. A track session can easily add 5 or more psi.
I've found that staggering tire pressures a bit can help overall behavior. On a 32 psi all-around OE recommendation, for a FE/RWD car with its OE 'square' tire and wheel setup, I'd run 3 or 4 psi more up front (cold) than out back, with the front tires 2 or 3 psi above the 32.
Everything I've read about MagneRide tells me that it's supposed to provide a very good ride in 'Normal'. I suppose it could feel too soft if you're expecting a firm-ish ride.
Norm
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