Garfy
Well-Known Member
A pair of full length jacking rails is lighter than a skinny teen. So I really don't think it'll affect anything much in performance or fuel economy.I just hate adding more weight onto a already heavy car
Sponsored
A pair of full length jacking rails is lighter than a skinny teen. So I really don't think it'll affect anything much in performance or fuel economy.I just hate adding more weight onto a already heavy car
The diff is isolated on those soft rubber bushings, by lifting the car there you're asking them to take loads far in excess of what they are designed for. Given they're already dogshit quality it seems like an easy way to get them to fail even earlier than intended lolNope, works just fine. Been jacked up by the diff over 20 times and zero issues.
But I would love to hear the reasons why not to lol. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Welp, you directed this at another member, but I'll put in my 2 cents.Nope, works just fine. Been jacked up by the diff over 20 times and zero issues.
But I would love to hear the reasons why not to lol. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .Nice machine work, will hold the weight up. Not really stable, foot print is scary ...........
Could knock the car on the floor in a heart beat.
They look nice, not safe.
I got a set of the BMR jacking rails. I think they are around $120. They only weigh 10 LBs and it's a 15 minute install. Then you can put a jack or jack stands anywhere along the side of the car and don't have to work about bending anything. Especially for people that take their cars to dealers for work and worry about how they are lifting the car.The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .
The photo posted makes the stands base look very small. I thought the same thing.The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .
What Gauge Tubing did you use?Home made stainless for me :
WD
All info on this post from my build thread :What Gauge Tubing did you use?
Hope that helpsFinished the stainless jacking rails
I went for (with my reasons) :
Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names
- 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
- 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
- 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
- 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
- 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
- 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
- 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
- Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
- Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
- 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
- Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
- Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).
Final pictures :
Stainless laser cut pads :
Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :
Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :
Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :
All done :
I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford …
WD
Thank youNice job on those jacking rails WD! You work with metal in your profession?
Do you have details on materials used and dimensions? How tight a fit is to do oil changes? Thank for any response!Here are a couple of pics of my full length modular drive up ramps I built. I just remove the center sections and I have all kinds of room to change the oil as well as other things without needing to lif my car at all. And back when I built them two years ago I did it for about 150 bucks.