Jack points

[Garfy]

I just hate adding more weight onto a already heavy car

A pair of full length jacking rails is lighter than a skinny teen. So I really don't think it'll affect anything much in performance or fuel economy.

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[ice445]

Nope, works just fine. Been jacked up by the diff over 20 times and zero issues.

But I would love to hear the reasons why not to lol. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

The diff is isolated on those soft rubber bushings, by lifting the car there you're asking them to take loads far in excess of what they are designed for. Given they're already dogshit quality it seems like an easy way to get them to fail even earlier than intended lol

 

[ICU812]

Nope, works just fine. Been jacked up by the diff over 20 times and zero issues.

But I would love to hear the reasons why not to lol. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Welp, you directed this at another member, but I'll put in my 2 cents.
The center diff it self, you won't harm, BUT it is bolted to the unit body, and is not a vehicle weight loaded part, like the older live axle was, This means the sheet metal that makes up the body that the diff is bolted to is not designed to support the weight of the car it might cause the sheet metal to flex or even stretch when you jack up on the diff.
Do as you please. it is your car.

 

[Glenn]

Nice machine work, will hold the weight up. Not really stable, foot print is scary ...........
Could knock the car on the floor in a heart beat.

They look nice, not safe.

The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .

 

[beetle6986]

The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .

I got a set of the BMR jacking rails. I think they are around $120. They only weigh 10 LBs and it's a 15 minute install. Then you can put a jack or jack stands anywhere along the side of the car and don't have to work about bending anything. Especially for people that take their cars to dealers for work and worry about how they are lifting the car.

 

[ICU812]

The foot print on these jack stands are 12x8 1/2. on a standard jack stand is 7 1/2 x 7 1/2 and large jack stands is 10x8 1/2!!! not scary at all .

The photo posted makes the stands base look very small. I thought the same thing.

 

[Doug V]

I have seen some of the posts. I don't know why people are worried about a few pounds. There are some good comments. Doesn't matter the brand. Any good jacking rail. Four jack stand. With pads (harbor freight). And a good low profile floor jack. Should be the first thing you do if you plan on doing stuff to the car. Lift one side with 2 jack stands. Then the other side. With all four wheels off the ground, you can do just about any maintenance or mod.

 

[DemonGT]

Just did the steed low pro rails. Super easy to install and work great

 

[RichGT350R]

BMR Jacking Rails & Quickjacks Here! Couldn’t be happier!

 

[WD Pro]

Home made stainless for me :

WD

 

[RichGT350R]

Home made stainless for me :

WD

What Gauge Tubing did you use?

 

[WD Pro]

What Gauge Tubing did you use?

All info on this post from my build thread :

Finished the stainless jacking rails

I went for (with my reasons) :

• 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
• 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
• 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
• 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
• 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
• 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
• 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
• Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
• Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
• 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
• Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
• Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).

Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names

Final pictures :

Stainless laser cut pads :

Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :

Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :

Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :

All done :

I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford …

WD

Hope that helps

WD

 

[Cobra Jet]

Nice job on those jacking rails WD! You work with metal in your profession?

 

[WD Pro]

Nice job on those jacking rails WD! You work with metal in your profession?

Thank you

I don’t work metal, unfortunately I work a keyboard … lol. I spend most of my day battling google mail, excel and PowerPoint etc

It’s not always been like that though. Six years in further education (computer aided mech design).

28 years at the same company - started as a trainee in cell & product design then worked my way up to tool design manager. Then about ten years ago we closed U.K. manufacturing, but I got the offer to move into the commercial side as product and technical manager.

Also paid my own way in night school for qualifications in mig on mild steel (was building a few banger cars at the time) and tig on aluminium.

So I have reasonable workshop skills, but now sadly lack access now to anything other than basic equipment I have retained access to AutoCAD which still proves very useful for getting my ideas down on paper and getting carbon, stainless profiles cut etc etc

Kind of why I like messing around with the bits on my cars and bikes, it’s a welcome break (and therapy) away from my day job

WD

 

[VitalStang]

Here are a couple of pics of my full length modular drive up ramps I built. I just remove the center sections and I have all kinds of room to change the oil as well as other things without needing to lif my car at all. And back when I built them two years ago I did it for about 150 bucks.

Do you have details on materials used and dimensions? How tight a fit is to do oil changes? Thank for any response!

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