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From what I've seen only the BCM is being flashed. All the technician has to do is connect to the car using the correct calibration punch in and then perform the update. The FP tune isn't like some of the aftermarket ones where IDS won't connect. With that said, I know you want the stock tune...

That's fair. You probably know more about this stuff than me, that's just how it was explained to me a long time ago when I looked into the subject. I can totally see it being more about cost though, especially when factoring in the robots and what they're good at doing.

Most of the measured torque values are very low in comparison to the final value. There's less error margin on the assembly line by doing it this way. Sure, a stud and a nut is the most accurate, but also the most costly, along with requiring more assembly steps. So while I agree cost is a...

Yep, usually it starts with a weird 3-4 and then slowly gets worse from there.

I get that they're annoying but they provide a more consistent clamp load. Achieving desired stretch is easier than achieving a specific torque value, especially in the factory.

This.

Not necessarily, a pump on its way out can take longer to build pressure, especially with some heat in the system. Not saying it can't be the starter though.

I'd suspect weak fuel pump

It sounds like the battery wasn't charged enough when you started and it caused it to error out. I've found these cars are super picky with flashing and you want to let it charge to 100% before starting. They may have something else you can try but most likely it's gonna be a dealer visit or...

Agreed. It's normal for IDS to complain when you hook up to a car that doesn't have the stock tune. But OP literally ensured it has the stock tune, lol. Unless the file he got isn't the same as the as built which seems unlikely.

You might be screwed. Did you have a battery tender hooked up while you were doing this? The ECU isn't going to be destroyed or anything but you may need a dealer to recover the as built calibration before you try again.

Maybe the dealer is just incompetent?

It seems like more timing advance quiets things down but I'm not exactly sure why

I forgot the Mach 1 gets a real oil cooler and not the fake coolant exchanger one that the GT gets. So yeah, it will be 100% fine post repair with zero risk of any real issues.

Not much, it's just capable of locking and changing states quicker which is advantageous on track. But it's one of those things where there's no real reason not to do it if you're already replacing them. You might notice a difference booting it from cruise at lower RPM since it can lock to...

This is like asking a stranger to pick the best loaf of bread on the grocery store rack, lol. If you spent all this money do some research

It's a great looking car and definitely the best color for it. Glad it all worked out

I'd be more worried about coolant and oil mixing but even that isn't a huge deal if caught early

As far as I understand it, the Bullitt/Mach 1 tune is closer to stock than the FP tune. They're rated for 87 octane so they make the same peak torque as a generic GT. They achieve the extra 20 peak horsepower using the combo of the gt350 intake, throttle body, and intake manifold.

What fuel do you plan to use? Trying to make big power on pump gas with how variable it is typically leads to more motor abuse than if you run consistent E85 or race fuel. With the compression ratio of these engines it becomes really difficult to push those big numbers for very long without...