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Yep, same here in UT where we only have 91, but it probably has to do with not needing 93 as we're at 5000 feet altitude. Running premium (91/93) can definitely result in better fuel economy as the engine will be more efficient in not having to retard ignition timing as much, etc. I got 29 mpg...

Yeah, I think OP was asking about the Gen 3 Coyote engine. Don't think they ever refer to the Ecoboost with generation numbers.

Also, this is why you should always periodically look at your gauges; long before it got really hot you would've seen the temp gauge slowly climbing up higher and higher.

The "standardization" of the DLC was just for the "generic OBDII" data. I forgot if it was 16 pids or whatever the number of pids that were mandatory for manufacturers to deliver on the DLC. The CAN data stuff can vary between manufacturers as to what they will transmit over those data lines and...

If your car is still under warranty (which seems like it is) I'd let it drop to around 20% and then reset it like you did your own oil & filter change. If you want to be sure it's still good, take a sample of it and send it to the lab to have an oil analysis done. I'm sure it'll be good but...

It all depends on what years you're speaking of because the early OBDII had minimally used terminals and was prior to CAN being implemented. Newer vehicles (like current models) used a lot more pins on the DLC for various data functions.

I don't think the oil actually "thickens" when it gets hot. The 5W50 just won't think out as much as the 5W30 does at operating temperatures. When you drain out the original factory fill of 0W20 when it's hot, it's a lot thinner than room temperature oil of the same viscosity. I'm sure if you...

True, while you can shift without depressing the clutch by playing with the throttle, it still wreaks havoc with the brass synchro rings. To illustrate this, if one can find a really early vehicle that had no synchro rings, try shifting without the clutch and you'll hear some grinding on each...

My GT has the A10 trans but I rarely downshift with it because for some reason, Ford programmed it with a sort of "rev matching" routine where I can downshift with the paddles from 10th to 7th or lower and it won't begin to decel for a few seconds until the engine's rpms are lowered. Unlike my...

Do you know of any pads that won't debond from the velcro if you use regular laundry detergent to clean them? When I first washed them (didn't know better) the detergent removed the synthetic sealants very well (the Snappy Clean and stuff don't work on anything but conventional compounds and...

I changed my AFE to 0.950 as it was reading a little high (default was 1.000) so now more accurate and I did register 29 mpg from SLC to Vegas. I imagine the A10 and my 3.15 stock gears were responsible as I'm sure 3.55 gears would've resulted in a little lower mpg. Still, in such a heavy car...

That's the first thing I did when I bought mine. When I realized those nuts were the 2 piece kind with the thin metal cap over them to form the "acorn", I ordered a set of one-piece solid acorn nuts. I had enough stress before I retired trying to remove those thin caps that would just spin over...

I would imagine one could over-torque the nuts but I don't see how over-tightening them would cause them to get loose. If the stud broke and the nut fell off yes, but not just unscrewing itself if it's over-torqued.

Instead of "listening" or watching the tach, why not open your hood and visually look at the compressor to see if the clutch is engaged and turning the compressor? That's the best way to see if it's actually turning.

I would imagine that if the rear wheel speed sensors weren't reading correctly, it should've set a code in the ABS system as it monitors all 4 wheel speed sensor. If it sees a conflict (say the fronts reading 55 mph and the rears 30 mph or erratic readings) it should set a code and many systems...

Wow, that's awful. I would think they'd have "loaners" unless it's a really small dealership. If you bought the car from them, I'd be talking to the manager about that.

I liked NASCAR when the cars were actual production type cars (T-birds, Monte Carlos, etc.) where you could easily tell what car it was; today it's basically the same with identical frames/chassis and the cars are all the same dimensions. Now I have to look carefully at the "decals" on the front...

I'd just have it towed to the dealer as it looks like it's under warranty unless you've put over 36,000 miles in one year.

Absolutely it does. If they can tighten the EPA specs, they can also loosen them, it all depends upon who's in office and who heads the EPA. Also, I can't understand why the U.S. is the ONLY nation who's so worried about emissions when the 2 larger emitters (China & India) don't give a hoot and...