Jack points

[Sig556]

I have seen some of the posts. I don't know why people are worried about a few pounds. There are some good comments. Doesn't matter the brand. Any good jacking rail. Four jack stand. With pads (harbor freight). And a good low profile floor jack. Should be the first thing you do if you plan on doing stuff to the car. Lift one side with 2 jack stands. Then the other side. With all four wheels off the ground, you can do just about any maintenance or mod.

Exactly!

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[Sig556]

Agreed! With all due respect to all members. This vehicle should never be jacked up using the rear itself. Can you take pressure off the car? Sure you can but do not support the entire weight by jacking up by the pumpkin.

 

[Rapid Red]

Proof once again, you cannot fix stupid, so why bother? They want to jack the car using the 3rd member, absolutely they should.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I'm reviving this thread because I couldn't for the life of me find a straight answer to this question.

The designated lift points (i.e. those small sections of the pinch welds which are marked with an arrow on the underside of the sills) aren't wide enough to accommodate a trolley jack and a jack stand at the same time. It's either one or the other, but not both.
Leaving jacking rails out of the discussion, and assuming you use the designated spots for lifting the car, what would be the best points to place the jack stands afterwards?
In the front, would the K-member be a good candidate? If not, then what would? How about the rear?

 

[ORRadtech]

I've seen this a couple of times. Seemed to cover it pretty well to me.
Also, I think this subject is over thought quite a bit.

In addition to the Xs and Os you'll notice where the lift arms are set.

 

[WonderDud]

I've lifted the car from everyone of those spots. X's and O's not to mention lifting the motor using the oil pan. All of em work

 

[WD Pro]

Probably just me, but I would be wary of lifting the back of the car using just the pumpkin …

WD

 

[luca1290]

The designated lift points (i.e. those small sections of the pinch welds which are marked with an arrow on the underside of the sills) aren't wide enough to accommodate a trolley jack and a jack stand at the same time. It's either one or the other, but not both.

I don't want to sound like an ass, but have you thought about investing in a QuickJack or similar arrangement?
It costs something, but it makes everything much easier.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I don't want to sound like an ass, but have you thought about investing in a QuickJack or similar arrangement?
It costs something, but it makes everything much easier.

Yes, I have, but I have no place to store it when it's not in use. I don't have a garage. The car is parked out in the open, in my front yard. The QuickJack is not meant to be stored outside, exposed to the elements, so I'd have to take it inside, find a proper storage space for it (and it's quite big, even when folded), and then bring it out every time I need to use it - which would be a pain, as it's really heavy.

The jack and jack stands, on the other hand, are stored in a little weatherproof box right beside the car. I can use them whenever I want (provided it's not raining, that is ).

I've seen this a couple of times. Seemed to cover it pretty well to me.
Also, I think this subject is over thought quite a bit.

In addition to the Xs and Os you'll notice where the lift arms are set.

Thanks, I've seen this picture before, but I have a few issues with it.
First, the pinch welds are surrounded by a plastic shroud which has small cutouts at the designated lift points. You can only place a jack or a stand in those cutouts, otherwise you will bend or even break that shroud. So the Xs and Os being shown next to each other on the pinch welds is just wrong. You can't do that.
Second, I can't tell what exactly is under the Os in the rear, beside the differential. Is it part of the frame, or is it a suspension component?
Third, once I've seen that it recommends lifting the car by the differential case, I'm not sure I can trust the rest of it.

The K-member seems quite thin to me at the points marked with an O in the picture. Is it really able to hold the weight of the car at that place? Won't it bend?
Whoever took this picture raised the car at the point where the K-member meets the frame. That looks like a better bet to me, though I'm not sure if the shape of jack stand head will allow it. I'll have to take a closer look.

 

[luca1290]

First, the pinch welds are surrounded by a plastic shroud which has small cutouts at the designated lift points. You can only place a jack or a stand in those cutouts, otherwise you will bend or even break that shroud. So the Xs and Os being shown next to each other on the pinch welds is just wrong. You can't do that.

If you use a square pad large enough you should not damage the plastic skirt. I raised mine equally using a round adapter that fits in the slots and also said large square pad.
If you look carefully you'll see that one of the two sides of the slot is floppy with a lot of give.

I will try to carefully lift it using a large pad right beside the plastic slot, then placing the jack stand in the space with the slots.
I guess it's the safest bet, I'm with you on not raising it by other places.

Pinch welds are very strong, as long as you distribute the weight evenly (by using a pad).

 

[WD Pro]

@Vlad Soare

The ‘O’s on the rear cradle, are the rear cradle - it’s the rear most mounting point that’s used for the Steeda braces.

The front K member is quite thick (maybe 2mm) so it should take it. I’m not sure I would be totally happy though, especially in the middle of the span, especially if I had somewhere else to use first (I have used the rear of it where it bolts to the floor pan).

WD

 

[ChitownStang]

I had a 15gt for 6 years and now a Mach 1 for almost 3 years and I do all my own maintenance on the garage floor.
So I’ve lifted the cars probably 100 times.
for the front those k members is where I always put my jack stands, solid no issues. Cradle of the jack stand fits quite nicely in between the 2 bolts.
For the rear, I used to lift it from the pumpkin all the time, and so did a reputable mustang race shop by me, never had an issue but never made me comfortable. With all the cooler lines on the Mach 1 I have not used it. Instead i use the rear cradle spots or if you lift the front up from the front pinch weld point the same side rear will also lift enough to get a jack stand under the rear pinch weld point. And I do not have jack rails.

 

[CrazyHippie]

Probably just me, but I would be wary of lifting the back of the car using just the pumpkin …

WD

I agree. Likewise, I wouldn't trust jacking the front of the car at the center point of the k-member cross bar. I use 2 floor jacks together to lift the front and then use the 2 jacks to lift the rear. I use jacking rails. Interestingly, though, look where the front lift arms are located in the photo. They are where the k-member bolts to the car body. Great jacking points as well.

 

[WD Pro]

I agree. Likewise, I wouldn't trust jacking the front of the car at the center point of the k-member cross bar. I use 2 floor jacks together to lift the front and then use the 2 jacks to lift the rear. I use jacking rails. Interestingly, though, look where the front lift arms are located in the photo. They are where the k-member bolts to the car body. Great jacking points as well.

Yeah I floor jack on those points, and I placed the pads when I lifted the car to fit the IRS braces :

WD

 

[snowtx1]

Is there any difference to the underside of the convertible vs. the coupe?

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