EF300
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2015
- Threads
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- Location
- The Swamp, Central FL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 GT350, 2020 GT500 CFTP
Lol I'll stop.
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If it’s anything like FDE’s work, expect around 35 hp from the heads. And if you’re going to run corn the car should make around 570whp.Same here. This is the type of mod I am interested in doing once the warranty is up. I am definitely following this thread, good stuff!
E85 will be better than 100 for power. It’s actually 104 octane and burns cooler. Speaking with tuners and the E85 will make more. I have 93, 100 and E85 from Lund. Running ARH too.Agreed!
I do what I can
Me too. I’m hoping a good bit north of 500 at the wheels. 550 would be a dream. Maybe on e85
I’ll definitely keep y’all updated on it. I’ll be running the snot out of it once back together.
Yep. Have figure out who yet. Would like to have the ability to run a few different options. Might try e85. Definitely would like to optimize it for 100 as well. But 93 will be the base.
The thing with chains is that they don't actually stretch, they wear a tiny bit at the hinge points of the links, and over the length of the chain, it all adds up to a longer chain. If you have any kind of contamination in the oil, it can cause extra wear which shortens the chain life. Thing is that the tiny bit of wear on each link is a bigger factor in long chains that have more links between the sprockets, so if you're replacing the timing chains, it's the primary chains that are most important.I'd like to know as well. There's even an engine code for when the chains reach 90% wear.![]()
Do the 5.0 engines suffer from the same thing?The thing with chains is that they don't actually stretch, they wear a tiny bit at the hinge points of the links, and over the length of the chain, it all adds up to a longer chain. If you have any kind of contamination in the oil, it can cause extra wear which shortens the chain life. Thing is that the tiny bit of wear on each link is a bigger factor in long chains that have more links between the sprockets, so if you're replacing the timing chains, it's the primary chains that are most important.
The Service Manual has really specific instructions/torque specs. Tell you one thing, the TTY bolts are killing me. I've bought about 50 of them for this build. Been replacing with ARP stuff where possible (mains, heads, flex plate, clutch, etc.).Where did you get tear down and torque spec instructions for the motor?
I hadn't been doing oil analysis. Guess who will be now!Out of curiousity, had you been doing oil analysis before this? Will you start/continue to do them after the rebuild? Would timing chain guides be a worthwhile upgrade?
Damn - your meme game is on point Tob.

I've heard this as well. Only challenge is E85 is a bit hard to get down here. Fortunately there is a pump on the way to COTA. So I can load up. Would like to be able to run both when needed. Ran a tank of 100 at a recent track day and it was awesome.E85 will be better than 100 for power. It’s actually 104 octane and burns cooler. Speaking with tuners and the E85 will make more. I have 93, 100 and E85 from Lund. Running ARH too.
I would imagine so. Although I'd bet there's less strain on the chains, so they last longer.Do the 5.0 engines suffer from the same thing?