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GT350 Engine Refresh Time!

A_Bau3

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Same here. This is the type of mod I am interested in doing once the warranty is up. I am definitely following this thread, good stuff!
If it’s anything like FDE’s work, expect around 35 hp from the heads. And if you’re going to run corn the car should make around 570whp.
 

guzie

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Agreed!



I do what I can :D



Me too. I’m hoping a good bit north of 500 at the wheels. 550 would be a dream. Maybe on e85



I’ll definitely keep y’all updated on it. I’ll be running the snot out of it once back together.



Yep. Have figure out who yet. Would like to have the ability to run a few different options. Might try e85. Definitely would like to optimize it for 100 as well. But 93 will be the base.
E85 will be better than 100 for power. It’s actually 104 octane and burns cooler. Speaking with tuners and the E85 will make more. I have 93, 100 and E85 from Lund. Running ARH too.
 

JAJ

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I'd like to know as well. There's even an engine code for when the chains reach 90% wear.
upload_2019-1-3_18-12-42.png
The thing with chains is that they don't actually stretch, they wear a tiny bit at the hinge points of the links, and over the length of the chain, it all adds up to a longer chain. If you have any kind of contamination in the oil, it can cause extra wear which shortens the chain life. Thing is that the tiny bit of wear on each link is a bigger factor in long chains that have more links between the sprockets, so if you're replacing the timing chains, it's the primary chains that are most important.
 

Rubyred17

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The thing with chains is that they don't actually stretch, they wear a tiny bit at the hinge points of the links, and over the length of the chain, it all adds up to a longer chain. If you have any kind of contamination in the oil, it can cause extra wear which shortens the chain life. Thing is that the tiny bit of wear on each link is a bigger factor in long chains that have more links between the sprockets, so if you're replacing the timing chains, it's the primary chains that are most important.
Do the 5.0 engines suffer from the same thing?
 

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Where did you get tear down and torque spec instructions for the motor?
The Service Manual has really specific instructions/torque specs. Tell you one thing, the TTY bolts are killing me. I've bought about 50 of them for this build. Been replacing with ARP stuff where possible (mains, heads, flex plate, clutch, etc.).

Let me know if you have any specific bolts in mind and I can look them up for you.
 

65Terdlingua

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Out of curiousity, had you been doing oil analysis before this? Will you start/continue to do them after the rebuild? Would timing chain guides be a worthwhile upgrade?
 

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honeybadger

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Out of curiousity, had you been doing oil analysis before this? Will you start/continue to do them after the rebuild? Would timing chain guides be a worthwhile upgrade?
I hadn't been doing oil analysis. Guess who will be now!

And yep. Doing timing chains. Pretty much anything that is a wear item outside of the pistons, crank or cams will be refreshed (all bearings, bolts, chains, guides, etc.).
 
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honeybadger

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Damn - your meme game is on point Tob. :fistbump:

E85 will be better than 100 for power. It’s actually 104 octane and burns cooler. Speaking with tuners and the E85 will make more. I have 93, 100 and E85 from Lund. Running ARH too.
I've heard this as well. Only challenge is E85 is a bit hard to get down here. Fortunately there is a pump on the way to COTA. So I can load up. Would like to be able to run both when needed. Ran a tank of 100 at a recent track day and it was awesome.

Do the 5.0 engines suffer from the same thing?
I would imagine so. Although I'd bet there's less strain on the chains, so they last longer.
 

bauern

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Since you're doing a full teardown, have you thought about removing the oil galley plugs at the front and rear to do a proper cleanup?
 

AdamIsAdam

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If you are changing the valve train, and making it heavier, does that mean your redline should be lower? (I'm no engine builder, so be kind in your reply ;-) )
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