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Crank relearn

GrayS550

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I’m Installing a new crank position sensor because the old one went out, so I have to perform a crank relearn with the new one?

Also, what does crank relearn do?
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WildHorse

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You can do it with just about any tuner, it's a simple 5 minute process.
Well not so fast. Pretty sure your SOL with RTD, HPTUNERS, Diablosport. IIRC.
Could be wrong on the first 2 though.
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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Well not so fast. Pretty sure your SOL with RTD, HPTUNERS, Diablosport. IIRC.
Could be wrong on the first 2 though.
I have a SCT X4 which has crank relearn. I just wanna know if you have to do it when replacing just a sensor.
 

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I have a SCT X4 which has crank relearn. I just wanna know if you have to do it when replacing just a sensor.
Yes. Always a good idea. Avoids all the misfire BS.
 

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I’m Installing a new crank position sensor because the old one went out, so I have to perform a crank relearn with the new one?

Also, what does crank relearn do?
Here's some info from the forum with how to do crank relearn.

Any time there is major engine work or trans work performed on the S550 5.0, the Dealer Service Tech (or DIYer) is supposed to do a crank relearn procedure.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-weird-hesitation.125119/page-2#post-2679084

Also check this link if you have a n-gauge for crank relearn:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/new-clutch-dtc-and-shudders.148583/#post-3035678

Crank relearn with SCTX4:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...des-codes-and-more-codes.146485/#post-2999715

Crank relearn with HPTuners:



M6G member @Jn2 crank relearn:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/sct-crank-relearn-questions-please-help.69190/#post-1586668

---
Here's info for how to do KAM reset too:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/kam-reset-magic.148830/#post-3040046

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ecu-reset-how-to-do-it.36757/#post-897609

---

Also remember with a manual trans S550 when doing the crank procedure, the clutch pedal should be depressed.
 
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nbjeeptj

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Be carefull when you put the new sensor in that you get it installed right. I could not see in the hole where it goes but, I first just put it in, put the bolt in it and started the engine and it was running worse that before. I pulled it back out and tried again and felt a hole that the end of it must go in for it to be lined up.
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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Update: I installed the sensor (yes in the correct position) and started it up. Same results… I checked wiring with a multimeter and everything looked good.

I cleared all my codes and started the car and proceeded to do a crank relearn. As I was revving up, around 4K rpm it wouldn’t let me go any higher unless I actually give it way more throttle. The engine sounds fine until I rev up to 4k rpm or higher, then it misfires. Also crank relearns keeps failing. Not sure why. Could it be bad flywheel?

This is what the engine sounds like on idle. Is that engine knock I’m hearing? (Smoke is from oil dripping onto the headers)

Also attached pictures of the new crank sensor after trying to do a crank relearn. It looks like a washer stick to it maybe? I’m not sure what that metal shaving can be. Also the new sensor looks like it got shaved down a bit? Not sure what my next move is here… (besides towing it to the dealer to figure it out)

New codes pictured below. (I’m aware of the O2 sensor codes / Shutter grille code)

ACA7E517-1D80-4D57-B680-596E17F83177.jpeg


30A62CE2-DA81-4603-9A46-7F2654EC5E63.jpeg


98747584-2B2E-4F6B-93EB-2D1C4D6574FA.jpeg


7619C080-FE98-44AB-B29B-8D65A7F99F52.jpeg


C81D4CFF-2018-48AF-A580-AD67151358A3.jpeg




 
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Cobra Jet

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Update: I installed the sensor (yes in the correct position) and started it up. Same results… I checked wiring with a multimeter and everything looked good.

I cleared all my codes and started the car and proceeded to do a crank relearn. As I was revving up, around 4K rpm it wouldn’t let me go any higher unless I actually give it way more throttle. The engine sounds fine until I rev up to 4k rpm or higher, then it misfires. Also crank relearns keeps failing. Not sure why. Could it be bad flywheel?

This is what the engine sounds like on idle. Is that engine knock I’m hearing? (Smoke is from oil dripping onto the headers)

Also attached pictures of the new crank sensor after trying to do a crank relearn. It looks like a washer stick to it maybe? I’m not sure what that metal shaving can be. Also the new sensor looks like it got shaved down a bit? Not sure what my next move is here… (besides towing it to the dealer to figure it out)

New codes pictured below. (I’m aware of the O2 sensor codes / Shutter grille code)

ACA7E517-1D80-4D57-B680-596E17F83177.jpeg


30A62CE2-DA81-4603-9A46-7F2654EC5E63.jpeg


98747584-2B2E-4F6B-93EB-2D1C4D6574FA.jpeg


7619C080-FE98-44AB-B29B-8D65A7F99F52.jpeg


C81D4CFF-2018-48AF-A580-AD67151358A3.jpeg




1) Is the sensor you purchased a Ford sensor or aftermarket? If aftermarket, is it longer than the original one you have removed?

2) There should NOT be ANY any major debris stuck to the sensor, embedded into it - or that the sensor comes out “shaved” or damaged. Yes, normal wear will have minute metal particles stuck to it, like “fuzz”, but definitely not large pieces of metal as seen in your image.

Seeing your image of the shaved sensor, I’d suspect at this point, without actually seeing the tone ring, that the tone ring is possibly damaged…. I am unable to determine what that debris could be from, but if you have an MT82, possibly from the clutch assembly? Or maybe a washer from the tone ring?

Once the tone ring is damaged such as coming in contact with the crank sensor, a new crank sensor won’t matter because reading of the tone ring teeth will inaccurate.

See this thread for Tone ring info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/p06e9-dtc-no-start.150022/page-2#post-3066365

To replace or service the tone ring requires removal of the transmission.

See this thread; the first image in it, the round circular toothed object on the floor directly below the engine - that is the Tone Ring. It gets placed onto the back of the crank so the Crank Sensor can read it (also seen in the image):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...utch-install-and-flywheel-bolt-warning.87130/
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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1) Is the sensor you purchased a Ford sensor or aftermarket? If aftermarket, is it longer than the original one you have removed?

2) There should NOT be ANY any major debris stuck to the sensor, embedded into it - or that the sensor comes out “shaved” or damaged. Yes, normal wear will have minute metal particles stuck to it, like “fuzz”, but definitely not large pieces of metal as seen in your image.

Seeing your image of the shaved sensor, I’d suspect at this point, without actually seeing the tone ring, that the tone ring is possibly damaged…. I am unable to determine what that debris could be from, but if you have an MT82, possibly from the clutch assembly? Or maybe a washer from the tone ring?

Once the tone ring is damaged such as coming in contact with the crank sensor, a new crank sensor won’t matter because reading of the tone ring teeth will inaccurate.

See this thread for Tone ring info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/p06e9-dtc-no-start.150022/page-2#post-3066365

To replace or service the tone ring requires removal of the transmission.

See this thread; the first image in it, the round circular toothed object on the floor directly below the engine - that is the Tone Ring. It gets placed onto the back of the crank so the Crank Sensor can read it (also seen in the image):
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...utch-install-and-flywheel-bolt-warning.87130/
OEM sensor from Ford. Thanks for the heads up on the tone ring. I think I’m giving this job to the dealer to handle. Too much for me in my driveway.
 

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Cory S

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You got some mayhem going on in there.....
 

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If you’re capable of removing the transmission, clutch and flywheel in your driveway, I recommend doing so yourself to save money. Once you’ve done all of that and determined the cause of the failure, then you can install the new flywheel and clutch yourself. Finally, tow it back and have the dealership reinstall the tranny (with new TOB), driveshaft and you’ll be back on the road.

The reason I’m suggesting this is because it’s easier removing the tranny than it is to install it (especially on the ground). Besides that, all of the money you’ll be saving can be applied toward a new clutch/flywheel assembly. These clutches aren’t cheap.
 
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NGOT8R

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Based on the photo of the washer looking piece that’s attached to the crank sensor, I’m going to guess that one of your straps broke (area circled in red) and that’s what you’re seeing on the end of the crank sensor. Of course some of that debris could have also taken out some teeth on the crank trigger wheel as well.

1679509112579.jpeg


The other thing I see is, the damage to the crank sensor could have been caused by inserting it into the sear main seal plate at an angle. Here’s what that factory plate looks like.

Rear view

1679509216324.jpeg


Front view

1679509328697.jpeg
 
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GrayS550

GrayS550

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Based on the photo of the washer looking piece that’s attached to the crank sensor, I’m going to guess that one of your straps broke (area circled in red) and that’s what you’re seeing on the end of the crank sensor. Of course some of that debris could have also taken out some teeth on the crank trigger wheel as well.

1679509112579.jpeg


The other thing I see is, the damage to the crank sensor could have been caused by inserting it into the sear main seal plate at an angle. Here’s what that factory plate looks like.

Rear view

1679509216324.jpeg


Front view

1679509328697.jpeg
How many crankshaft position sensors are on a 2018 GT? 1 or 2?
 
 




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