New Clutch. DTC and Shudders

[Mattwood440]

I had a Mcleod RXT clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing installed in my 15 GT w/Procharger about one month ago. This wasn't done by a Mustang expert, and I'm hoping some of my problems are known issues amongst the community. First, the car wouldn't go 20 miles before it would misfire, go into reduced power mode, and throw various DTCs. Took it back and they did some computer wizardry and it was fine. But just recently it's started throwing a DTC again. While cruising steady the CEL comes on and I get code P3000, which is a Ford specific one. Drives fine but it's done it 3 times in the past week or so. From what I'm reading it appears to be related to the crankshaft position sensor, which was probably what the earlier misfiring was related to. Right? Dirty sensor? Something else that's common? MMR sells a new sensor with the latest revisions that's supposed to "help eliminate crank sensor and relearn codes." Mine is the original one from 11/2014.

The 2nd problem that is pushing me over the edge is that the shuddering in 1st is still bad. It's gotten better as I've approached 1k miles since install, but it still sucks. I don't even want to have my wife in the car. Yes, I need something beefy but this is my only car, and therefore my daily, and I'm just about over it.

I'm tempted just to take it to a place that knows mustangs better and say fix the cause of the code, AND put a different clutch in it.

Any input on the first problem would be great. And is there a different clutch out there that can hold mid 600whp/500tq without being a pain? Single disk?

Really disappointed

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[cop on my back]

Did your installer do a crank relearn? As for the shudder, I gave up on McLeod twin discs a while ago, though mine were RST.

 

[Mattwood440]

To the first question, maybe? He said "I just reset everything." And it did work for several weeks. It still runs great, but the light keeps coming w/ a P3000 code.
What did you end up going with clutch wise?

 

[tyoon]

To the first question, maybe? He said "I just reset everything." And it did work for several weeks. It still runs great, but the light keeps coming w/ a P3000 code.
What did you end up going with clutch wise?

The DTC's are fixed by doing a crank relearn. If you have an NGauge or SCT X4 you can do the crank relearn pretty easily. Just search it up on YouTube and Jon Nardi from Lund Racing has a pretty informative video on how to do it.

As for the shudder, it's pretty common on these twin disk rigid style clutches. The stock ones are sprung hub and are more flexible by design. I just installed a xClutch Twin Disk Organic Clutch and mine shudders as well, but it'll go away as your clutch gets worn.

 

[Mattwood440]

The DTC's are fixed by doing a crank relearn. If you have an NGauge or SCT X4 you can do the crank relearn pretty easily. Just search it up on YouTube and Jon Nardi from Lund Racing has a pretty informative video on how to do it.

As for the shudder, it's pretty common on these twin disk rigid style clutches. The stock ones are sprung hub and are more flexible by design. I just installed a xClutch Twin Disk Organic Clutch and mine shudders as well, but it'll go away as your clutch gets worn.

Wow I just noticed this thing was unsprung. Makes sense. I'm still hoping it's going to smooth out, and I'm already invested so I guess I'll just drive it until spring and see.

If whatever he did fixed the problem for 3 weeks of daily use, wouldn't that mean it's something else? IDK. I don't have one of those tuners yet. Surprisingly I've been running the canned Procharger tune for 4+ years now, but I was already planning on having it finally tuned. I'll ask what they are planning on using.

 

[cop on my back]

I went with Excedy Mach 500 and lightened steel flywheel.

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