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Broken crankshaft

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OP
TGGT

TGGT

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1900 ish. Going to have my shop order it so hopefully cheaper
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Torinate

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Last time I ordered dirt it cost more.
Yea, figured as much for a bare block... but when I read short block...

Carry on lol
 

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Since I have a d1x and similar combo, is the procharger crank support best option to prevent failures? I have been looking at the MFP option.
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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Since I have a d1x and similar combo, is the procharger crank support best option to prevent failures? I have been looking at the MFP option.
I would recommend it. I’m also d1x at about 850-875 wheel
 

SolarFlare

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Since I have a d1x and similar combo, is the procharger crank support best option to prevent failures? I have been looking at the MFP option.
both should work. I haven’t seen any procharger guys with the MFP option yet. The best option to prevent failure is a proper seating and torquing of the balancer. From there on the support will limit a failure from abuse/fatigue, belt Tension, limited riding or just the small luck of the draw.
 

stang17

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OP I wish you the best of luck when you get it back together. I went through something similar back in 2019 where I snapped my crank on my Whipple setup. I had the Ford dealership install OPG, CS, and ATI balancer. I've seen maybe about a dozen or so of us alone on the forum that has snapped cranks boosted/NA, stock balancer/aftermarket balancer.

I ended up going with a MFP crank support and Aluminator with the stock aluminator balancer. I was able to keep my sway bar with the MFP support, however it is a whipple setup.
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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OP I wish you the best of luck when you get it back together. I went through something similar back in 2019 where I snapped my crank on my Whipple setup. I had the Ford dealership install OPG, CS, and ATI balancer. I've seen maybe about a dozen or so of us alone on the forum that has snapped cranks boosted/NA, stock balancer/aftermarket balancer.

I ended up going with a MFP crank support and Aluminator with the stock aluminator balancer. I was able to keep my sway bar with the MFP support, however it is a whipple setup.
I would like to get the aluminator, but I don’t think it’s in the budget right now. I could also use my block and build my own aluminator ish motor for around 3k. Still trying to decide what to do. What ever I go with it will for sure have the crank support on it and I’ll be sticking with the d1x with the 4.25 pulley
 

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TGGT,

Stock rods are good for up to 1000 crank hp. Mahle makes a great piston/ring/pin set that is 2618 forged alum and requires no balancing. I am building a spare long block using these. Ford uses this piston set in their Aluminator's.

You could use your block with new crank and have a good build.

I truly feel your pain and hope things work our for you.
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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Just get another stock shortblock.
I’m thinking this as well. That will leave me with my current block to have sleeved for a future build. My stock block (with opg) ran very strong and had zero problems until the snout broke
 

TRP45ACP

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I am so sorry OP and wish you the best getting her back on the road.

My setup is very similar on my 2018 and has only been FI for 1500 miles (5400 total miles on the car). I too, run the 4.25" charger pulley on my D1X. With that, I am strongly considering ordering some parts this week. Here is what I am finding.

Innovators West #817 damper $439
Innovators West PC Pulley #1096 $185
PC crank support (satin) $695
Total $1319

Or ATI
ATI #918047 damper $499
PC crank pully for ATI $224
PC crank support (satin) $695
Total $1418

One other item, I plan to run the long ARP stud (kinetic I believe) which is $100 or so bucks.
What are the forum members opinions on these two options? I have read they are 6 one way, half a dozen the other; however, some are more opinionated with one brand over the other. Innovators West is $100 cheaper which is irrelevant considering the monies we all put into our cars :) I would appreciate your input. Thank you
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