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Broken crankshaft

turnswrench

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I’m not worried about it. I don’t do too much cornering as it is. I’m much more interested in keeping the crank snout where it belongs
I've never felt unstable without the front or rear anti sway bar.
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80FoxCoupe

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I run and recommend the crank support as well as the crank stud. With the crank stud kit installed, i personally wouldn't recommend putting a socket on the nut to turn engine over as the 12pt nut is small and may effect the torque applied to the balancer. With the crank support installed, the mandrel covers the stud. Its a pain if you want to manually turn engine over to tighten/check converter bolts/nuts, torque blower pulley etc. I had a 1/2 drive installed in the mandrel to eliminate the removal of the support. Pm me if you or @TKM Conbread want this done.

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PXL_20210601_210832823.jpg
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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I run and recommend the crank support as well as the crank stud. With the crank stud kit installed, i personally wouldn't recommend putting a socket on the nut to turn engine over as the 12pt nut is small and may effect the torque applied to the balancer. With the crank support installed, the mandrel covers the stud. Its a pain if you want to manually turn engine over to tighten/check converter bolts/nuts, torque blower pulley etc. I had a 1/2 drive installed in the mandrel to eliminate the removal of the support. Pm me if you or @TKM Conbread want this done.

PXL_20210122_224331691.jpg


PXL_20210601_210633651.jpg


PXL_20210601_210832823.jpg
I’m probably going to want that done. I’m also wondering what you guys with crank supports are running for balancer. It seems like there are numerous part numbers for balancers for the coyote. And then does the stage 2 pulley that is supplied with the pc kit just bolt to the new balancer?
 

turnswrench

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I’m probably going to want that done. I’m also wondering what you guys with crank supports are running for balancer. It seems like there are numerous part numbers for balancers for the coyote. And then does the stage 2 pulley that is supplied with the pc kit just bolt to the new balancer?
I run ATI. What you have now will not work. When you get the crank support, you'll need to order a new machined PC crank pulley.

I am also getting the @80FoxCoupe crank mandrel mod done :rockon:
 

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80FoxCoupe

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I’m probably going to want that done. I’m also wondering what you guys with crank supports are running for balancer. It seems like there are numerous part numbers for balancers for the coyote. And then does the stage 2 pulley that is supplied with the pc kit just bolt to the new balancer?
You want the ATI 918047. Yes the CS kit will include a drive pulley specific for ATI. The ATI and new drive is almost 4lbs lighter than oem balancer/cam lock drive pulley.

PC also has a kit for the Innovators West balancer. I run ATI.
 

TKM Conbread

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I run and recommend the crank support as well as the crank stud. With the crank stud kit installed, i personally wouldn't recommend putting a socket on the nut to turn engine over as the 12pt nut is small and may effect the torque applied to the balancer. With the crank support installed, the mandrel covers the stud. Its a pain if you want to manually turn engine over to tighten/check converter bolts/nuts, torque blower pulley etc. I had a 1/2 drive installed in the mandrel to eliminate the removal of the support. Pm me if you or @TKM Conbread want this done.

PXL_20210122_224331691.jpg


PXL_20210601_210633651.jpg


PXL_20210601_210832823.jpg
Damn thats baddass!!! Hell of a job Big Dawg!!!
 

schmeky

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From what I have been able to ascertain, one of the most common denominators for a broken crank is changing the factory balancer to aftermarket.

I have read of broken cranks on N/A and turbo equipped Mustangs as well, but seems the balancers were changed.
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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From what I have been able to ascertain, one of the most common denominators for a broken crank is changing the factory balancer to aftermarket.

I have read of broken cranks on N/A and turbo equipped Mustangs as well, but seems the balancers were changed.
I was on the factory balancer. I think it could potentially happen on any set up. I rarely pushed the car. It’s had the procharger on for a little over 10k miles and I’m only running 13psi
 

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80FoxCoupe

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From what I have been able to ascertain, one of the most common denominators for a broken crank is changing the factory balancer to aftermarket.

I have read of broken cranks on N/A and turbo equipped Mustangs as well, but seems the balancers were changed.
Are you inferring that the issue is the aftermarket balancer or the fact the oem unit was removed and new was torqued improperly?
 
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TGGT

TGGT

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Torqued the balancer bolt with an impact gun? That's like doing a vasectomy with a machete.
Perhaps, but I will say I am extremely accurate with an impact gun
 

ProChargerTECH

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Torqued the balancer bolt with an impact gun? That's like doing a vasectomy with a machete.
One time.... One time I used a cordless impact to "start" my balancer bolt in my Coyote. Literally, on the third "ugga" it snapped it clean off in the crank.

The factory bolt, and the design is poop. I always do them by hand, and make sure the threads are cleaned and lubed. I don't wanna go through that removal process again.

NOTE: I have still never had a single crankshaft failure in any car I have tuned. (hundreds at this point)
 

andrewtac

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Are you inferring that the issue is the aftermarket balancer or the fact the oem unit was removed and new was torqued improperly?
Fairy new here, but I have noticed a similar trend in the postings about failures. Though it could be totally unrelated. It could simply be the number of people hammering on motors is vastly greater of those who replaced the balancer versus those who haven't. Could also be those who replaced the balancer and it happened to blame this and post; and those who don't just think it is part of doing business and don't share. There seems to be a trend, but could be unrelated.
 

fuelforfire87

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Sorry to hear OP, @ProChargerTECH, Any plans for a crank support for the gen 1 cars?
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