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BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

stangman638

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What are you talking about? Ford ssm'd you tick has no associated damage long or short term. You seemed to be finally enjoying (and encouraging others) your car.
Your misunderstanding -- Andy13186 stated Ceratec fixed his engine.. I stated an additive doesn't fix a damaged engine. I am not saying his engine is damaged. I am stating if the tick was really causing damage as many thought it was, no additive in the world was going to fix it. I'll say again -- no I don't think his tick or any tick is causing damage.
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accel

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Your misunderstanding -- Andy13186 stated Ceratec fixed his engine.. I stated an additive doesn't fix a damaged engine. I am not saying his engine is damaged. I am stating if the tick was really causing damage as many thought it was, no additive in the world was going to fix it. I'll say again -- no I don't think his tick or any tick is causing damage.
Andy13186 stated ceratec fixed IT, with IT being tapping in his message context
 

Andy13186

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^Yes I meant the tapping was fixed by the ceratec.

Probably so ... but in any experiment it's best to change only one variable at a time to determine what's causing what.
I added the ceratec after my first oil change from OEM oil to castrol edge. With the castrol edge alone still had the tapping. I then added the ceratec and the tapping was immediatly gone. And now with completely different oil with no additional ceratec, the ceratec coating still seems to be working fine.
 

GT Pony

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I added the ceratec after my first oil change from OEM oil to castrol edge. With the castrol edge alone still had the tapping. I then added the ceratec and the tapping was immediatly gone. And now with completely different oil with no additional ceratec, the ceratec coating still seems to be working fine.
What oil brand and viscosity are you currently using without the Ceratec? If it's not the same viscosity Castrol Edge, then you changed two variables which makes it hard to make a real conclusion.

Other guys have used Ceratec and then changed the oil, and didn't add Ceratec and the BBQ tick came back. So seems outcomes are not consistant.
 
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accel

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Other guys have used Ceratec and then changed the oil, and didn't add Ceratec and the BBQ tick came back. So seems outcomes are not consistant.
I only had ceratec for several hundred miles with mc 5w20 and then switched to 5w30 castrol edge titanium without ceratec. Tick immediately came back but at different rpms. (Mc5w20 - 1750, just like ssm says, castrol - 1250). But I think several hundred miles was obviously not enough for ceratec to make any change.

I do not think we have anyone who kept cerated long enough like Andy did.
 

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Andy13186

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In post 724
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...mpt-to-understand.108944/page-37#post-2459991

My post was to gatormark91 stating if he had legit engine damage no additive was going to fix it.

Andy13186 quoted my post and said it fixed his.

No idea what he is talking about, tick, tapping or real engine damage.
Your post was "If you have engine problems that you THINK warranty a new block, no additive will fix that"

His engine "problem" was a tapping noise

My post was said ceratec fixing the tapping noise. at idle atleast. I still have the 2k rpm rattle as mentioned in the video but its alot better than the tapping.
 

Timeless

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Having been through it a bit myself, what I would do now looking back is:

1) Replace the factory fill whenever you want, or when the indicator says so... I'd do it at 1K miles, and use 5W30 (personal preference) of your favorite type. I don't think this helps the "tick" at all, is purely my personal preference.

2) Substitute enough of the new oil w/1 bottle of Ceratec... dump it in, the whole thing, call it preventative, enjoy a tick-free life (most likely). I was an early(er) adopter, and now many months later don't give it a second thought. The "tick" irritated the hell out of me, probably due in part to this and similar threads.... living tick-free is a nice place to be :)

Again, just my personal preference....
So this is basically what I did. Had the dealer replace the oil with 5W30 full synthetic (assuming Motorcraft) and put a bottle of Ceratec in there at roughly 1275 miles. Hopefully good to go now! :thumbsup:
 

Supersolo

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I thought there were some interesting comments in this video.

Might the root cause be, Cylinder to piston clearance, during assembly?
The clearance is then enlarged further during initial run-in, to the point where there is audible piston slap & possible reduction in compression, in effected cylinders?
 
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My car went into the shop for the typewriter tick about a week before the tsb was released. Glad I brought it in when I did. The engine is out and apart and the tech determined that it was excessive rod side clearance. After measuring he found that the rod side clearance was over double spec, on two different bearings. Spec is .325mm to .5mm. Two of mean measured close to .9mm. He showed it to me and it was very evident. Had a lot of side to side play and made the exact typewriter tick noise when moved side to side by hand. Ford approved a short block. On the plus side, my tech really knows his stuff and is very clean, organized, and careful.

Engine bay.jpeg
Engine.jpeg
Parts layout.jpeg
 

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My car went into the shop for the typewriter tick about a week before the tsb was released. Glad I brought it in when I did. The engine is out and apart and the tech determined that it was excessive rod side clearance. After measuring he found that the rod side clearance was over double spec, on two different bearings. Spec is .325mm to .5mm. Two of mean measured close to .9mm. He showed it to me and it was very evident. Had a lot of side to side play and made the exact typewriter tick noise when moved side to side by hand. Ford approved a short block. On the plus side, my tech really knows his stuff and is very clean, organized, and careful.

Yep ... I think it's pretty likely that excessive rod side clearance is the cause of the BBQ. That's why Ford now says it's "normal" and won't lead to any engine damage, etc. Well, that may be true ... but it's really not "normal" if parts are out of factory specifications IMO.

Same think here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-excessive-is-this-rod.108361/
 

GT 550

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@ Superchomper2003 looks like they're being adult about the issue and taking good care of those parts which is really nice to see. Did the tick happen after an oil change?
 
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@ Superchomper2003 looks like they're being adult about the issue and taking good care of those parts which is really nice to see. Did the tick happen after an oil change?
Mine started at about 400 miles, it did however get much louder after the first oil change.
 

Condor1970

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Did they find excessive wear marks on the sides of the big end or crankshaft?

If not, was the tick always there, or did it develop over time?

I ask, because I can't see very well, and it doesn't look like it has a ton of wear marks on the crankshaft. If it has no visible wear, then the excessive clearance was there from the factory, so the tick should have been there from day one of ownership. If the tick developed over time, how the heck could the noise be that?
 

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@ Condor1970 that's a very good question. Might be related to something they put in the factory oil fill, hence why Ceratec affects it. Would be great if someone could do an analysis of the factory fill to see if there's anything unexpected in there.
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