stangman638
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I kinda agree with that statement in general, but you just never know.
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thelostotter
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This is the main reason I'm not too concerned with the BBQ tick. If I beat on the car for a bit and get it nice and hot, I can't replicate the tick until I either drive long enough for it to cool down a bit or I shut it off for a while. I still wish I knew what exactly it was and because it's somewhat embarrassing to tick my way through the neighborhood or a parking lot.
Condor1970
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OK, today the tick is back, as usual. However, I did notice something different when I got home from work today.
At idle in the garage, there is no tick anymore. However, when I rev up to about 1,200rpm, it starts to become intermittent. Then, around 2,000rpm it becomes constant with the engine rpm, and the tick stays there as rpm continues to increase all the way up to 3,000rpm. Beyond that the tick is there, but hard to hear from engine exhaust, etc, but does not go away.
UPDATE: 1 hr later, I thought, "Gee, I wonder what it would sound like if I went out and ran in the engine a bit? Can't hurt right?" Well, I decided to drive down the road past a local airport which is a nice 2 mile stretch. I put it in 3rd gear and ran it up to 3,500rpm for the whole distance down the road and back (~50mph). I just held it there at the higher rpm than I'm used to cruising at down the highway (which is ~1,800 at 70mph). After running it at 3,500rpm for a good 10 minutes back and forth up and down the road, I left the oil temp gauge on the display, and it normally runs just below halfway, and during this run it went just above the half way mark. I pulled back into my garage, let it idle and did some minor revving.
The tick was NOTICEABLY quieter. In fact, almost GONE. I can still hear a teeny little bit, but I was quite surprised.
I'm going to do this a few more times, and see what effect it has.
At idle in the garage, there is no tick anymore. However, when I rev up to about 1,200rpm, it starts to become intermittent. Then, around 2,000rpm it becomes constant with the engine rpm, and the tick stays there as rpm continues to increase all the way up to 3,000rpm. Beyond that the tick is there, but hard to hear from engine exhaust, etc, but does not go away.
UPDATE: 1 hr later, I thought, "Gee, I wonder what it would sound like if I went out and ran in the engine a bit? Can't hurt right?" Well, I decided to drive down the road past a local airport which is a nice 2 mile stretch. I put it in 3rd gear and ran it up to 3,500rpm for the whole distance down the road and back (~50mph). I just held it there at the higher rpm than I'm used to cruising at down the highway (which is ~1,800 at 70mph). After running it at 3,500rpm for a good 10 minutes back and forth up and down the road, I left the oil temp gauge on the display, and it normally runs just below halfway, and during this run it went just above the half way mark. I pulled back into my garage, let it idle and did some minor revving.
The tick was NOTICEABLY quieter. In fact, almost GONE. I can still hear a teeny little bit, but I was quite surprised.
I'm going to do this a few more times, and see what effect it has.
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GT Pony
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You have a 2018, so what you describe sounds like the 2000 RPM rattle instead of the BBQ tick.
Maybe running it hard gets the pistons to heat up anf expand a bit more, and tighten up in the bores some, and that's why it quiets down.
Condor1970
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^^^ It sure didn't seem like that when it first started. When it first started, it was a light intermittent bbq tick when idling. But, I'll know more tomorrow after driving around some more.
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Condor1970
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I'm really starting to think the intermittent BBQ tick is just the early stages of a swiped journal bearing that eventually turns into a full blown rod knock.
stangman638
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Could be, I think Ford knows what it is, curious to as why they have not fixed or released anything about it?
OneFordGT
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How does adding Ceratech, TriboTex, and simply running the car hard seem to eliminate the BBQ Tick (not knock or piston slap)? TriboTex eliminated my intermittent BBQ Tick. Did it repair my engine or alter the way the oil flowed, like Ceratec and runing the car hard? Is the real BBQ Tick sound from all makes of cars coming from loose tolerances or is it something else? See post #101. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bbq-tick-solved.111085/page-6
Jetnoise
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And they keep on building them....
Now what mfr of any product ....would do that?
Gives me pause.
I do know that mfr’s in the past would decline any kind of warranty claim if you altered their product in any way or fashion.
My coffee maker, iPhone, fridge, delta faucet ..... and ford warranty still state this in some fashion.
What truly amazes me is that they have been kind & honored it’s product warranty to people who have publicly altered the product the oem intended to stand behind. I think those days are numbered in single digits.
Seems there are some legitimate concerns and some folks who were and are asking for a legitamet declination in warranty and proud to post on the tube.
None of this is new, been going on for decades.
If you want to play be prepared to play.
Ford is laying off a ton of good people right now....I don’t think it will lend a kind hand to questionable warranty claims going forward, nor should it.
...me just rambling and my $.02 but worth less than $.01
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GT Pony
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I still suspect excessive rod side clearance. An additive like Cara Tech or Tribo Tex will help decrease friction and also may help "cushion" parts that impact each other.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-excessive-is-this-rod.108361/
TheLion
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Both hBN and MSH DLC coatings form a tribofilm that is up to several hundred microns thick. So it can reduce clearances TO A DEGREE where excessive. This may be just enough to keep oil pressure up a tad higher at low RPM or as you mentioned "cushion" the impact. The films are also self-repairing, so they will build back up if damaged due to extreme pressures exceeding their load bearing capabilities.
That is likely why the Ford Field engineers have suggest carbon powder additives on ticking 5.0's if the noise is bothersome. But the 6.2L and 6.7L are examples of how long these engines last and tick tick tickt away. There's plenty of them with well over 100k miles on them now in fleet service applications where they are run pretty hard on a regular basis.
I'm sure if the clearances are large enough it wil cause low oil pressure issues or even collapse of the hydrodynamic bearing under load, in that case you'll be in for a new bottom end in VERY short order and you'll have a lot more than just an erratic ticking.
TheLion
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That's good to hear. It seems to me that if one has a very mild form of the tick there seems to be no functional issues. However it does seem there are a few cases with severe ticking where short blocks were dropped in on Ford's dime and at this point if you have a loud tick they just do it now. I agree with GT Pony that they must know the cause at this point and in severe cases it's justification for a replacement.
Maybe it's rod bearing side to side clearances, maybe it's cylinders out of round (slap) or maybe something else all together. Some times we ALL get it wrong.
Just another good reason to leave the engine stock or at most use Ford Performance Power Packs and have them installed by the dealer for warranty coverage. Either way you have full warranty support if something goes sideways, which the performance car community is notorious for. It's just a reality that when you push the limits, problems are more likely to arise.
I'm at 22,900 miles now, run the car very hard some times (I also do a decent amount of touring and normal driving), but also maintain it well. I just threw a P0420 code yesterday going to get groceries with my wife. First time I've had any engine codes since I purchased the car (well except the crank angle sensor code right after the power pack that required a re-learn, but that was expected to happen) with only 5,600 miles on it last December. It runs absolutely perfect, from how I've gotten the suspension tuned to how the engine performs under sustained high RPM / high load operation. Go figure, just when I really start enjoying the whole car (as in I don't find it lacking in this area or that) it throws a code
.P0420 is Bank 1 Sensor 2, it's post catalyst. So either the sensor is not reading correctly or something is up with the catalyst. The real question is, if it's the cat, did operating conditions cause to fail or was it defective from the get go and going to fail regardless...I have yet to see.
And this very reason is why I preach religiously for people to either leave their 5.0's stock (engine mods wise) or go with Ford Performance. Stuff can go wrong no matter how careful you are. You have no idea if both catalysts were manufactured right, or if the assembly line put everything together correctly, or if a valve isn't going to crack and drop down into the combustion chamber and trash the whole engine (I saw one stock GT where that happened, only 4,000 miles on it, got a new long block under warranty).
I've seen LT1's seize multiple rod bearings on a dyno bone stock (over on the camaro6g forum), 392's have low rpm rattle just a thousand miles in etc....warranties don't matter to most until you need them, but when you do, you really do at times. And, you have to admit, for those that do most of their own auto work like I do, it's nice to just hand it over to some one else every now and then and say "tell me when it's done!".
BTW, anyone know what the maximum temps are on the stock GT catalysts? The highest I've seen is 1669F at 6441 RPM in 4th gear, the car was really moving and under high load (getting a worst case). I know Ford Performance leaves in all of the protections, so they will take measure to keep the cats from over heating. I was just curious. Bank 1 and Bank 2 cats seem to track identically temperature wise. Only Bank 1 is throwing a Sensor 2 code however. So at this point I suspect the sensor itself or wiring harness got a little toasty...
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djk99
Member
Yea, noise on mine started pretty early on. Had dealership listen and both agreed that we should wait a bit to see where is goes. Within a month noise was just getting worse and for intermittent to all the time hot or cold. Dealership has been great pushing back with Ford on their suggested fixes (top end 1st then HP fuel pump) Neither were problem. Biggest disappointment during this whole thing is Ford reacting so slowly with everything. Dealer asked multiple times for a tech to come listen to get issue identified quickly and they never did. Only thing dealer got from Ford tech was a phone call. Asked Ford regional customer why it took so long to get the dealership support on this and they had no answer.
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