BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

[Condor1970]

Semi-synthetic and full synthetic oil doesn't "sludge" in less than 10K miles. Most motor oils thin down in viscosity from miles due to shearing from the engine. Motorcraft seems to shear down quite a bit, that's why I'm changing to Valvoline full synthetic.

So as the oil gets thinner as it breaks down, why would the ticking noise slowly go away?

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[GT Pony]

So as the oil gets thinner as it breaks down, why would the ticking noise go away, instead of getting worse?

If you study oil tribology, some additives in oil take many miles to activate with heat and coat surfaces. When an oil change is done, the new oil can strip some of those coatings. That could be why the BBQ tick shows up right after an oil change and slowly gets better with miles. Also, adding something like Cera Tec (anti-friction additive) has made the BBQ tick completely disappear on many member's cars.

Valvoline has some moly in it, which might help. Another reason I'm going with it.

 

[Condor1970]

If you study oil tribology, some additives in oil take many miles to activate with heat and coat surfaces. When an oil change is done, the new oil can strip some of those coatings. That could be why the BBQ tick shows up right after an oil change and slowly gets better with miles. Also, adding something like Cera Tec (anti-friction additive) has made the BBQ tick completely disappear on many member's cars.

Valvoline has some moly in it, which might help. Another reason I'm going with it.

It seems like half the members on here with a new 2018 have the same ticking issue. That many engines can't be bad. My ticking started at 800 miles and I never even took it past 3,000rpm. Even after taking it to 7,000rpm at 2,500 miles a couple times to run it in, the ticking hasn't really changed, but has slowly gotten more noticeable with time, and not any specific thing, other than right after the oil change.
I think I may try that Ceratec additive. Also, I may just bump up to 5w30 oil, since that's what they used to run, and also run in the 2018 Euro Mustangs.

 

[GT Pony]

It seems like half the members on here with a new 2018 have the same ticking issue.

From what I've read on this board, the 2018+ seem to have two different ticks/rattles. The BBQ tick at idle and low RPM (like the 2015-2017 Coyotes), and the unique 2200 RPM rattle.

 

[Condor1970]

I don't get it. Being almost 48yo, I'm not one to race much. However, I had a chance to play tag with a really nice crotch rocket on the way home tonight. Just a little 6th to 3rd and redlining on the highway up to....well.... just a little over the speed limit. cough cough.

Anyway, I did the same in 2nd coming up a big hill by our house in the country.

I pulled into the garage, and sat at idle, revved a little up to 2,000rpm, and that puppy sounded smooth as butter.

I swear to our heavenly father this is true. Maybe these Coyotes just need a good ol' fashioned ass-whoopin' on occasion. Heck, I dunno.

 

[GT Pony]

I don't get it. Being almost 48yo, I'm not one to race much. However, I had a chance to play tag with a really nice crotch rocket on the way home tonight. Just a little 6th to 3rd and redlining on the highway up to....well.... just a little over the speed limit. cough cough.

Anyway, I did the same in 2nd coming up a big hill by our house in the country.

I pulled into the garage, and sat at idle, revved a little up to 2,000rpm, and that puppy sounded smooth as butter.

I swear to our heavenly father this is true. Maybe these Coyotes just need a good ol' fashioned ass-whoopin' on occasion. Heck, I dunno.

I think soneone else posted something similar where he beat the car pretty good at the track and the engine was running quieter after he got home. Don't recall what thread, too many of them going on.

 

[Condor1970]

I think soneone else posted something similar where he beat the car pretty good at the track and the engine was running quieter after he got home. Don't recall what thread, too many of them going on.

Yeah, being an engineer myself, I would design this thing assuming it needs to run hard... a lot. Maybe that's the idea they had. Babying it just leaves you in a position to have all kinds of weird issues... like an impossible to diagnose tick.

 

[steveo1960]

Mine started with cold starts only, now cold or warm from idle to 2000 rpm sounds like this. Past 2000 rpm still there but exhaust drowns out the noise. Currently at dealer waiting for Ford to advise.

Ouch! That is loud! There is no way a dealer could possibly claim that is normal, no matter what the cause is.

 

[Condor1970]

Keep in mind, that smooth running engine after running it hard last night, was just a minute or so when I got home. Who knows if that will last. The bloody tick may come back today for all I know.

 

[OneFordGT]

After reading some Duramax forums I am convinced the BBQ Tick, not other ticks, but BBQ Tick is from the oil pump cavitation. Watch this video, and search for more.

 

[GT Pony]

After reading some Duramax forums I am convinced the BBQ Tick, not other ticks, but BBQ Tick is from the oil pump cavitation. Watch this video, and search for more.

If it was the oil pump the tick source would be towards the front of the engine, and a stethoscope should be able to pin-point the source. The BBQ tick sounds more like bottom end. And why would the tick change with a slight load change (AC on or cylinder deactivated) if it was the oil pump. I still think it's excessive rod side clearance. Also, if Ford knew it was the oil pump, then why replace the whole block and not just the oil pump?

 

[Condor1970]

^^^ Good point.

 

[OneFordGT]

If it was the oil pump the tick source would be towards the front of the engine, and a stethoscope should be able to pin-point the source. The BBQ tick sounds more like bottom end. And why would the tick change with a slight load change (AC on or cylinder deactivated) if it was the oil pump. I still think it's excessive rod side clearance. Also, if Ford knew it was the oil pump, then why replace the whole block and not just the oil pump?

Those are all very good points and make a lot of sense. I think changing the load may put the pump at one of the right "sweet spots" or harmonic range for cavitation, but I have ZERO evidence to back up that claim. I am curious if anyone with an aftermarket balancer is experiencing BBQ Tick? It's hard for me to understand why Ford is authorizing short block replacements only for the BBQ Tick to return right away with the new block.

 

[GT Pony]

It's hard for me to understand why Ford is authorizing short block replacements only for the BBQ Tick to return right away with the new block.

If the tick is caused by excessive rod side clearance because the crankshaft was machined incorrectly (ie, journals too wide), then the easiest fix is to replace the short block. Much easier than trying to replace a crankshaft with existing rods and trying to ensure all the rod and main bearing clearances are correct with a different crankshaft.

 

[HermanGerman]

could be true.

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