Alignment recommendation HPDE

[Aonarch]

That seems to be the same as the Dark Horse one, but it is reassuring that they also recommend this for the s550 platform.

Any reason you went with 0.1 toe instead of 0 toe in the front? I know that's what's recommended by Ford but 0 should lead to better wear, or is this not really noticable for you?

It is such a small amount. My guess they did it to help mid corner rotation?

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[Walt]

That is great to hear. Glad you are enjoying the car.
I have gotten to the point now where I can feel AdvanceTrak holding me back. I might have to try pulling the fuse next time.

I think I'm about 34 hot. Tire wear is a good indicator especially with minimal camber. If you see wear on the sidewalls, up the tire pressures.

Use the triangles on the sidewalls as an indicator. The wear should come right up to but not past the triangles.

Yeah on my street tires I used on track, those triangles were gone after the first track day, whoops. Pressure was nearing 38-39PSI already but that's probably due to the lack of camber and street tires + overdriving.

Hoping to see better wear using 200tw Yokohama AD09 tires + -2.2 front camber.

You probably already know this but you can turn off AdvanceTrac by turning regular traction control off, and then holding the traction control toggle for about 10 seconds (it displays this on the dash if turned off). It does turn it back on though everytime you turn the engine back on so pulling the fuse is a more permanent way.

 

[Walt]

Just get the Ford camber plates. I highly doubt anyone will be able to identify them.

How much camber would those net me? I thought they couldn't get to -3 or past that either without cutting.

Would a combination of plates and bolts be a bad idea?

They might notice that the top strut bolt isn't perfectly in the middle on the strut tower though, unless I reset it to a street setting but then I'll need yearly alignments.

I though about getting those black plastic pony covers for the strut towers too to cover up, I doubt they'll remove them if the rest of the car looks stock.

 

[Ewheels]

Yeah on my street tires I used on track, those triangles were gone after the first track day, whoops. Pressure was nearing 38-39PSI already but that's probably due to the lack of camber and street tires + overdriving.

Hoping to see better wear using 200tw Yokohama AD09 tires + -2.2 front camber.

You probably already know this but you can turn off AdvanceTrac by turning regular traction control off, and then holding the traction control toggle for about 10 seconds (it displays this on the dash if turned off). It does turn it back on though everytime you turn the engine back on so pulling the fuse is a more permanent way.

I've heard far too often that even with holding the switch for 10 seconds, the car can still turn it back on if it thinks it needs to. Pulling the fuse is the only way to guarantee the nannies won't interfere.

 

[Ewheels]

How much camber would those net me? I thought they couldn't get to -3 or past that either without cutting.

Would a combination of plates and bolts be a bad idea?

They might notice that the top strut bolt isn't perfectly in the middle on the strut tower though, unless I reset it to a street setting but then I'll need yearly alignments.

I though about getting those black plastic pony covers for the strut towers too to cover up, I doubt they'll remove them if the rest of the car looks stock.

Plates and bolts could be a nice pair to get closer to -3 degrees. How much, I don't know.
Those covers sound like a convenient way to avoid unwanted eyes.

 

[SBR70.3]

For those of you adjusting your rear toe to 0.12 in per side, what toe arms are you using? I ordered the Steeda Ultimate Handling kit and it should be in this week. Allegedly, the bushings in their toe arms have less deflection than stock. Would I still aim for 0.12 in per side with these?

 

[Ewheels]

For those of you adjusting your rear toe to 0.12 in per side, what toe arms are you using? I ordered the Steeda Ultimate Handling kit and it should be in this week. Allegedly, the bushings in their toe arms have less deflection than stock. Would I still aim for 0.12 in per side with these?

OEM for me. I haven't gone down the path of replacing all the rubber joints in the suspension yet.
And yes, still same alignment.

 

[K4fxd]

Allegedly, the bushings in their toe arms have less deflection than stock. Would I still aim for 0.12 in per side with these?

Yes. .1 degree toe in, in the front also helps with stability. .05 per side.

I like -1.8 to -2 camber in the rear, any more and the car feels weird.

 

[Aonarch]

For those of you adjusting your rear toe to 0.12 in per side, what toe arms are you using? I ordered the Steeda Ultimate Handling kit and it should be in this week. Allegedly, the bushings in their toe arms have less deflection than stock. Would I still aim for 0.12 in per side with these?

I've got the ultimate handling kit. I'm at .12 feels good.

 

[WItoTX]

How much camber would those net me? I thought they couldn't get to -3 or past that either without cutting.

Would a combination of plates and bolts be a bad idea?

They might notice that the top strut bolt isn't perfectly in the middle on the strut tower though, unless I reset it to a street setting but then I'll need yearly alignments.

I though about getting those black plastic pony covers for the strut towers too to cover up, I doubt they'll remove them if the rest of the car looks stock.

Agree with ewheels. The other plus, I suspect your car is rare over there, so they might not know what to look for. The cover makes for a cleaner look, and might not look out of place on a relatively rare car.

 

[AnywhereInTX]

Vorshlag Camber Plate + Camber Bolt guy here. I am at -3.25* up front with more room to play. Did that to avoid having to cut the strut tower holes.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I would max out the front camber with your bolts and make the rears 1 degree less. So if it were -2.2 in front, do -1.2 in the rear.
And yes, always zero toe in the front, regardless of the amount of camber.

Yeah I think thats too much stagger. Thats like less than stock numbers in the rear. I ran 0.5 less on the rear for a long time and it drove great..

So my 2c is max out the front and run 0.5 less in the rear, but not less than 1.7 or more than 2.0. So if you can only get 2.2 front then 1.7 rear, etc. if you can get 2.5+ in the front then run 2.0 rear.

As for the camber plates, some mustangs come with them new, so worst case the OP should be able to buy the OEM ones and get a bit more camber, if not a lot. They look very factory, no bling. I douby anyone would know.

 

[Walt]

Agree with ewheels. The other plus, I suspect your car is rare over there, so they might not know what to look for. The cover makes for a cleaner look, and might not look out of place on a relatively rare car.

I see more Ferrari's than I see Mustangs on a regular basis. It's always thrilling to come across another Mustang driver and wherever I go they always wave to me.

Good point, the techs usually struggle opening the hood (apparently the latch is lower than most cars) so I come in and open it for them and out of embarrassment they don't really look and it is closed again in less than a minute. Worked every year so far.

If you can't see it from the underside on a lift with the wheels on, I'm good. If I ever decide to switch to different dampers or coilovers, I'm in trouble because then they really check closely and measure if your alignment is within factory spec.

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Vorshlag Camber Plate + Camber Bolt guy here. I am at -3.25* up front with more room to play. Did that to avoid having to cut the strut tower holes.

I agree…Vorshlag camber plates are the real deal. Great support if you call in for guidance.

 

[Brigadir]

Since the topic of traction control was touched here - from my amateur experience it feels like in track mode it actually helps you to turn in by braking the inner wheels (in both modes of TC “on” and “off” until “completely off”). Interesting if others would prove this statement

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