Ford Performance Track Handling Pack - What do I need?

[Sparky1337]

As per Fords spec for camber and toe i followed what was supplied in the install instructions.

Looks like I got the regular and perf pack mixed a little. In the spec sheet Ford does give a +\- .75 on camber so it doesn’t need to be super spot on but definitely needs more camber in rear not front. My bad.

Sponsored

 

[blankman]

All good. I wasn't sure either about any of the specs. Alignment guy said he put it back to stock settings. I noticed they listed this on the instructions while I was diagnosing bad camber plates, just took it back up the other day and had them re align it to the closest they could get it to the ford performance specs. Ill be taking it back again after the rear toe links are installed just to make sure it's still around there.

 

[1 old racer]

My two cents on what you will need to make what you are doing handle the way it should. 1). anything less then 1.9 deg front camber with the correct toe will handle better the stock set up, without causing any excessive tire wear( toe end setting will actually play a bigger roll in that), To make the car not seam squarely going over dips on the highway you need a set of Bump Steer correction links. Check out Steeda for a nice set. This will allow proper articulation thru out the full range of suspension travel.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

I have mine aligned to GT Coupe Track Pack / PP values even I am using the track shocks/struts, but with Steeda Minimum Drop springs. it worked out well, handling is good and no uneven tire wear over the years. might add the PP front toe links later since they are stiffer and different from base GT, however the rear links included in both the PP/Track kits are same as stock base GT.

 

[High Velocity]

Just did this whole install (minus the toe links and knuckle spherical bearings, as my shoulder is damaged. Hopefully next weekend I can finish that).

You are going to want to have an 18mm ratcheting wrench. Two of the sway bar bolts are a pain in the ass to get to, the main one is the bolt under the alternator. That 18mm will also make the sway bar end links much easier. To remove and reinstall. There is a small rectangular plastic flap on the drivers side inside the engine bay, removing this with the 2 plastic clips will make the sway bar removal easier.

Unbolting the coolant resovoir and shifting it out of the way will help get to the sway bar bolts on the passenger side and driver side front. Have at least an 18" extension for your 1/2" impact for those sway bar bolts. My new dewalt couldnt break loose 2 of the 3 bolts I could reach with the extension so I had to use a breaker bar to break them free. The bolts were more than half covered with locktite. It was like they had a locktite fondue party for those 4 bolts. Have a mallet ready to help break loose those bolts if needed. The hold downs for the stock sway bar have metal plates underneath making it one piece, so don't waste your time trying to remove as I did.

The rear springs were the 2nd hardest things to remove after the front sway bar. Front sway bar took me and my nephew about 35 minutes just to remove it.

I did all of the front myself , minus the sway bar, and all of the rear myself including a steeda stop the hop starter kit. The steeda kits took the longest time because of the mismatched nuts and bolts per the instructions.

The driver side rear springs i was able to remove and install with a small bar, but once I tackled the passenger side I had to bring out a 5' pry bar to be able to shift the cradle down far enough to remove and reinstall the new spring.

It was honestly pretty easy on the list of things to do. Just took more time because I had to make tool runs. Oh and you are going to want a 24mm deep socket for the bolts holding the front struts to the knuckle. I got lucky when removing them without rounding them out, and chose to grab a 24mm socket just for those for reinstalling and removing again which I'm glad I did.

I also did this without removing the exhaust or knuckles or anything. Its really not that bad. Plus Ford gives you new bolts for everything you are installing. I did not order the new bolt set from Ford, but used all the new nuts in the kit and locktite, blue and red.

I'm not sure how the hell people can torque the sway bar end links nuts, but i did my best to estimate the required torque for install as i couldnt fit any torque wrench that I could actually use to set them. So I "set" them with breaker bar torque.

I also did have to re adjust my exhaust to look straight. I'm not sure if dropping the rear subframe or the alignment dowels had something to do with it or not.

I had the car aligned with steeda camber plates, but after two weeks of diagnosing I ended up replacing them with the stock strut mounts that came with the kit. After I replace the rear toe links, and knuckle bearings i will be taking it in for alignment again just to see where it's at.

Why did you remove the steeda camber plates? Did they increase NVH? Do you have any pictures of how the car sits? I’m seriously considering ordering this kit.

 

[High Velocity]

After playing with suspension setups, I’ve decided to swap to the Ford Performance Track Handling Pack.

Currently I have ordered,
The track handling pack (PN: MFR3AM8A)
The fastener kit (PN: MFR3FASTENA)
MOOG Front Endlinks (PN: K750798)
MOOG Rear Endlinks (PN: K750744)

Do I need anything else for this kit for install to go smoothly?
I’m assuming I don’t need the sway bar bushing kit (PN: M-5490-BKD) as they come with new bushings already.
I’m assuming I don’t need the Ford Performance camber plates as it’s only a 1 inch drop.
Anything you guys can think of please let me know because I’m tired of spending money and just want to do this once

What other suspension kits have you tried? What didn’t you like about them? I’m also thinking about ordering this kit.

 

[Mach 307]

What other suspension kits have you tried? What didn’t you like about them? I’m also thinking about ordering this kit.

So as everyone will mostly tell you stock isn’t great at anything, it’s bouncy for comfort and lacks dampening and stiffness for spirited driving. I’m currently on the Steeda Pro Active and Minimum Drop Springs kit. I like how the car rides to be honest with you, that’s not my gripe. It’s that I keep hearing noise when angling into entrances or going full lock with my steering wheel, and I’ve already had them pulled off once to replace the top hats, and just that being about $800 total with labor and parts to rebuild the struts a second time, just to get the car back with the same noises, I’m throwing in the towel for a cohesive setup that’s made to work together that I can guarantee won’t have any aftermarket “quirks”. Not a knock at Steeda whatsoever I don’t think their parts are the issue, but I’m done throwing money at a potential never ending problem, that’s just my experience it may not be yours. From here as mentioned I plan to do the Ford Performance Track Handling Pack, the non adjustable MOOG endlinks for front and rear, a long with the eibach camber bolts and the hardware kit. One thing I cannot stress enough if you’re doing any suspension setup, get new endlinks and new top hats, it’ll save you a lot of trouble, and nobody told me that.

 

[Mach 307]

You guys think I need these or anything else? Or am I just going down the rabbit hole at this point lol

 

[High Velocity]

So as everyone will mostly tell you stock isn’t great at anything, it’s bouncy for comfort and lacks dampening and stiffness for spirited driving. I’m currently on the Steeda Pro Active and Minimum Drop Springs kit. I like how the car rides to be honest with you, that’s not my gripe. It’s that I keep hearing noise when angling into entrances or going full lock with my steering wheel, and I’ve already had them pulled off once to replace the top hats, and just that being about $800 total with labor and parts to rebuild the struts a second time, just to get the car back with the same noises, I’m throwing in the towel for a cohesive setup that’s made to work together that I can guarantee won’t have any aftermarket “quirks”. Not a knock at Steeda whatsoever I don’t think their parts are the issue, but I’m done throwing money at a potential never ending problem, that’s just my experience it may not be yours. From here as mentioned I plan to do the Ford Performance Track Handling Pack, the non adjustable MOOG endlinks for front and rear, a long with the eibach camber bolts and the hardware kit. One thing I cannot stress enough if you’re doing any suspension setup, get new endlinks and new top hats, it’ll save you a lot of trouble, and nobody told me that.

Do you have any pictures of how your car currently sits on the steeda springs?

 

[Mach 307]

Do you have any pictures of how your car currently sits on the steeda springs?

Yessir I got a few and can take more if needed, measure for you etc.

 

[High Velocity]

Yessir I got a few and can take more if needed, measure for you etc.

Thanks. I’ll keep an eye on this thread and hopefully you will post some pictures of the new ford track kit when you get it installed. And also would like your opinion on how it drives.

 

[Mach 307]

Thanks. I’ll keep an eye on this thread and hopefully you will post some pictures of the new ford track kit when you get it installed. And also would like your opinion on how it drives.

Absolutely, I’ll get back to you on that, hopefully it’s not backordered too far

 

[blankman]

Why did you remove the steeda camber plates? Did they increase NVH? Do you have any pictures of how the car sits? I’m seriously considering ordering this kit.

I ended up replacing the steeda plates with stock shock tower mounts and new spring isolators/bushings. The bearings in the plates were shot , so I was getting a clunking noise in the front. The plates ripped the plastic top off the bearings in the isolators so I replaced those as well.

Its actually been over a week since I got in contact with steeda about replacement parts to rebuild the plates. So I think im just going to go with a different brand.

Yeah ill take a couple of pics for ya after I get back from my DRs appointment tomorrow morning.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

You guys think I need these or anything else? Or am I just going down the rabbit hole at this point lol

Get them. But i bet you can find them for around 300. They add a bit of solidity to the steering.

Don't even think about doing all this without also doing some subframe reinforcing too.

 

[Mach 307]

Well I pulled the trigger, at this point figured may as well

Sponsored