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Dont torq your back too hard while you're thrusting in the direction of your monitor...

Solid advice everyone- i like the smidge of negative toe in the front for some steering immediacy but i might try zero toe. I really dont want toe-in on the front. The car is extremely stable even on rough roads, at least at the speeds i drive it at. Maybe on a track the negative toe would cause...

No experience with tuning Mustangs, but what you've described has been my experience with tuned cars in general.

So by the sound of it you are saying the FRP toe link bearing adds that much NVH? That's surprising it adds that much.

Really? if so you are bang on if i do say so myself 😜 Which steeda brace? I see one marketed for stopping wheelhop.

This is a daily driver but I drive it in a, shall we say, spirited manner at times. It's all for fun, not a track car. When I go on roadtrips I seek out the twisties. My last 2 cars were a 2013 Scion FR-S and 2017 Mazda Miata so you can see what type of car I gravitate towards. Mods i've done...

I've pulled some from my old Honda Accord that looked about the same but it was after 120k miles. Ford has some suspect parts specs i've noticed 😂

wow thats pretty bad. so you have to replace these every 8k miles apparently lmao.

Noice. I love these freakin engines.

As you've become acclimated to the car you've probably subconsciously realized when you can easily slot into first gear. There's also the mechanical break in aspect of it, some cars i've owned it took a few tens of thousands of miles for the notchier transmissions to smooth out! But mostly...

I've always used Meguiars D101 all purpose cleaner, diluted 10:1 on a warm engine, scrubby brush and detailing brushes and just hose it off. No pressure washer. I then dry it off by getting on the freeway and blasting all the water out. Always works for me. This is on greasy, dirty engines...

Having sold a car or two that were tuned that I got sick of for their various glitches and drivability niggles... how bout no, Scott!

Someone once stole the cover to my 1985 Mercedes Turbo Diesel with 200k miles on it when I was a kid. I would cover it up because I had to park it under a tree that would release little pink flowers that would stain the paint and need clay barring all the time. It was a pretty worn car but it...

I've driven on summers on upper 30 degree temps fine. I didn't have any issues but I also wasn't taking any chances. Should be fine. Keep in mind wild temperature swings might cause summer tires to start micro cracking and wear more. They get harder the colder it gets so there's that.

Being awfully snooty aren't we? The black panel is far more susceptible to scratches than the actual paint of the car. It's like those piano black plastic trims they have on some a-pillars and interiors. No matter what you do eventually it will get hairline swirls.

Yeah it sounds like an alignment issue then if you're on stock tires. Get thee to a decent alignment shop and have them check your toe and if it's in the negative, it needs to be in the slight positive.

What size tires? Stock 255s didnt have it and neither do 275s. Sounds like it's an issue when you go up to 305s+ I did get a shitty alignment where they toed out one of my rear wheels a bit which made my car squirelly. I got the rears toed in a smidge which fixed that completely. So thats one...

Yes big time. Especially cold starts and full throttle. You can keep it quiet just tooling around town shifting at 2000 rpm.

What OP is describing is exactly how it feels for me when the 2-3 shift doesn't *ahem* work out so well. But i've only ever had it on that shift. The car pulls so much power in first gear and then takes off like a bat out of hell in 2nd gear i guess it makes sense that it happens on 2-3 shift...

Ooooh I see what you mean now.