Ford Performance Track Handling Pack - What do I need?

[Mach 307]

After playing with suspension setups, I’ve decided to swap to the Ford Performance Track Handling Pack.

Currently I have ordered,
The track handling pack (PN: MFR3AM8A)
The fastener kit (PN: MFR3FASTENA)
MOOG Front Endlinks (PN: K750798)
MOOG Rear Endlinks (PN: K750744)

Do I need anything else for this kit for install to go smoothly?
I’m assuming I don’t need the sway bar bushing kit (PN: M-5490-BKD) as they come with new bushings already.
I’m assuming I don’t need the Ford Performance camber plates as it’s only a 1 inch drop.
Anything you guys can think of please let me know because I’m tired of spending money and just want to do this once

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[MAGS1]

American Muscle did a YouTube video a couple years back with Ford to showcase the Track and Street kits. To my knowledge, none of the cars they used had camber plates so I do believe it’s possible to go without.

That said, I’d consider the camber plates. I think there’s been a few people here that have said the drop is just enough that they can’t make the necessary adjustments to the alignment without them.

 

[Mach 307]

American Muscle did a YouTube video a couple years back with Ford to showcase the Track and Street kits. To my knowledge, none of the cars they used had camber plates so I do believe it’s possible to go without.

That said, I’d consider the camber plates. I think there’s been a few people here that have said the drop is just enough that they can’t make the necessary adjustments to the alignment without them.

Perfect thank you for the feedback, I actually just got off the phone with Deans Performance, I’m sure you’ve heard of them as they’re local to us lol, and he said to grab these.

 

[MAGS1]

Perfect thank you for the feedback, I actually just got off the phone with Deans Performance, I’m sure you’ve heard of them as they’re local to us lol, and he said to grab these.

I’ve not taken my car to Dean’s but have heard nothing but good things about them from people in our area. He won’t steer you wrong, so you should be good with the camber bolts

 

[Mach 307]

I’ve not taken my car to Dean’s but have heard nothing but good things about them from people in our area. He won’t steer you wrong, so you should be good with the camber bolts

Can’t wait to have this thing dialed in again. Now to wait on the kit to arrive!

 

[blankman]

Just did this whole install (minus the toe links and knuckle spherical bearings, as my shoulder is damaged. Hopefully next weekend I can finish that).

You are going to want to have an 18mm ratcheting wrench. Two of the sway bar bolts are a pain in the ass to get to, the main one is the bolt under the alternator. That 18mm will also make the sway bar end links much easier. To remove and reinstall. There is a small rectangular plastic flap on the drivers side inside the engine bay, removing this with the 2 plastic clips will make the sway bar removal easier.

Unbolting the coolant resovoir and shifting it out of the way will help get to the sway bar bolts on the passenger side and driver side front. Have at least an 18" extension for your 1/2" impact for those sway bar bolts. My new dewalt couldnt break loose 2 of the 3 bolts I could reach with the extension so I had to use a breaker bar to break them free. The bolts were more than half covered with locktite. It was like they had a locktite fondue party for those 4 bolts. Have a mallet ready to help break loose those bolts if needed. The hold downs for the stock sway bar have metal plates underneath making it one piece, so don't waste your time trying to remove as I did.

The rear springs were the 2nd hardest things to remove after the front sway bar. Front sway bar took me and my nephew about 35 minutes just to remove it.

I did all of the front myself , minus the sway bar, and all of the rear myself including a steeda stop the hop starter kit. The steeda kits took the longest time because of the mismatched nuts and bolts per the instructions.

The driver side rear springs i was able to remove and install with a small bar, but once I tackled the passenger side I had to bring out a 5' pry bar to be able to shift the cradle down far enough to remove and reinstall the new spring.

It was honestly pretty easy on the list of things to do. Just took more time because I had to make tool runs. Oh and you are going to want a 24mm deep socket for the bolts holding the front struts to the knuckle. I got lucky when removing them without rounding them out, and chose to grab a 24mm socket just for those for reinstalling and removing again which I'm glad I did.

I also did this without removing the exhaust or knuckles or anything. Its really not that bad. Plus Ford gives you new bolts for everything you are installing. I did not order the new bolt set from Ford, but used all the new nuts in the kit and locktite, blue and red.

I'm not sure how the hell people can torque the sway bar end links nuts, but i did my best to estimate the required torque for install as i couldnt fit any torque wrench that I could actually use to set them. So I "set" them with breaker bar torque.

I also did have to re adjust my exhaust to look straight. I'm not sure if dropping the rear subframe or the alignment dowels had something to do with it or not.

I had the car aligned with steeda camber plates, but after two weeks of diagnosing I ended up replacing them with the stock strut mounts that came with the kit. After I replace the rear toe links, and knuckle bearings i will be taking it in for alignment again just to see where it's at.

 

[Sparky1337]

Camber spec on these cars is up to -1.7 on the front, and something like -1.5 on the rear. A good shop can get those in on mild drop springs that are less than an inch like the Steeda and BMR minimum drop. I don’t know about the Ford lowering springs, but it’ll be close.

 

[MAGS1]

Can’t wait to have this thing dialed in again. Now to wait on the kit to arrive!

Who did you order the kit from and what did they estimate as far as timing to ship? I’ve seen a few places show anywhere from 2-4 weeks to ship

 

[Mach 307]

Who did you order the kit from and what did they estimate as far as timing to ship? I’ve seen a few places show anywhere from 2-4 weeks to ship

I actually ordered it through Ford Performance to the dealership by us in North Aurora, as it saved a lot in shipping freight.

 

[MAGS1]

I actually ordered it through Ford Performance to the dealership by us in North Aurora, as it saved a lot in shipping freight.

Gerald Ford in North Aurora?

 

[blankman]

As per Fords spec for camber and toe i followed what was supplied in the install instructions.

 

[Mach 307]

Gerald Ford in North Aurora?

Yessir that’s the one

 

[MAGS1]

Yessir that’s the one

Ha! It’s literally 2 minutes from my house. They do all my service work. I know the GM, Tom, pretty well. Good people over there and they do good work

 

[Mach 307]

Ha! It’s literally 2 minutes from my house. They do all my service work. I know the GM, Tom, pretty well. Good people over there and they do good work

They’re awesome man, maybe 10 minutes from me, I get all my service done there as well. Also figured shipping to them directly from Ford the kit was likely to be handled better than going through a 3rd party.

 

[Mach 307]

Also if anybody is looking to buy Steeda Pro Actives with minimum drop springs and Steeda shock mounts assembled, ~500 miles when it’s all said and done lmk lol…

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