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Common misconception about the terminology for the “modular” Mod motors. It was never meant to refer to modularity of the motors themselves, but the tooling in the factory to easily change things up and manufacture something else in the engine family.

I for one appreciate my manual Ford Fusion Coupe with optional V8.

That’s what I get for not reading the whole post lol.

Do you have the build date? Like my 2016 was built in August 2015 so depending on yours it could just be terrible prep. You can look up “Lightning Blue Peeling” and it’s on every ford that had that paint. For the mustangs it came off in sheets. Yours is in a weird spot compared to how they...

Is this Lightening Blue? I thought most of the issues were just 2017’s but it is possible it bled over to other years. Idk what ford did, but there’s something wrong with how they applied it. For mustangs it chips and peels off the rear quarters pretty bad.

My 2016 also does this. It is stupid loud. Seems to only happen when I don’t use the hvac. I always thought it was the blend door like the GM cars. Probably the same manufacturer. I’ve had the car since new, but it only started after dailying it the last couple years.

If anyone hasn’t mentioned it already, Ford changed the corrosion warranty in 2015, 2016, and I think 2018. I would assume they changed it again at some point afterwards but like one of the first comments said, I thought they fixed it post 2018. It certainly adds to the confusion of what’s...

I want to say the SEMA F100 was just a transplant Mach e so it would depend on your plans for the car. Like on how much you could get an intact GT from copart vs a standard range.

Unless ford changed the specs in 2019 they listed -0.010 to +0.020 for the Shelby spec

It could also have been what was mentioned earlier if the wifi is searching or the satellite radio is searching. Idk, all I know is once I locked the car it stopped dying. For reference, I do park in an enclosed garage every day. I get my batteries from Costco. They last just around 5-7 years...

I just put mine in a faraday cage. Also, leaving the car unlocked keeps it in a “ready” state and toasts the battery. I found that out the hard way.

Are the tires original? They might be a little on the hard side if they are. I’ve always found the S550 chassis is grabby and trams more than any other car I’ve had. Your printout looks fine though. Have you used the comfort mode on the steering wheel? I’ve found that helps on rougher roads.

I would still flash to stock before troubleshooting. There's no reason to chase this issue with any aftermarket tune or parts, Ford Performance or not. Once on the stock tune you can check duty cycle on the injectors and stuff like that against what they should be. Not what some tune allegedly...

I’d be pointing my finger at the Lund tune. They were hot stuff years ago when I first got on this forum but I haven’t heard anything good about them the last couple years. If you want to parts cannon it check out Levittown Ford Parts, Tasca, or OE Ford Parts Giant. They’re all dealers that...

I’m gonna be honest, I’d go back to stock and start from there. Troubleshooting a tune with that many fingers in it isn’t easy.

Does it not throw a misfire code? That would be pretty odd for it not to, and if it is just swap coils and see if the code follows it. It’s a lot cheaper than buying 8 new motorcraft coils.

My $0.02 is if it’s just the sleeves that are shagged I’d grab a new short block and transfer everything over if it isn’t your daily. I don’t think I’d be comfortable with re-sleeving a modern engine with any of the shops around me. Otherwise, I’d probably test my luck at copart or something...

I have a hard enough time driving on 6 year old tires. Definitely would never drive on ones that old. If I’m storing the car and have no intention of driving it anytime soon it wouldn’t bother me. But the moment that car is about to go on the road I’d take the wheels off and have tires put on...

It wouldn’t take much to see if the isolator is there, and properly seated on both sides. In my picture it doesn’t look like the coils could contact, but when the weight of the car sits on them they squish down pretty good on the top two. I don’t believe the factory coils ever did.

What shocks did you go with? I used the ford performance race set and I got the same clunk as you. If it’s like my problem, the top coils compress enough to touch when you go over bumps in the road at speed. Crawling through the forums, it appears Steeda added this coil isolator wrap sometime...