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Winter Storage Routines?

Hack

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I do usually swap out my better summer tires on the Mach wheels for the stock PP1 wheels with their garbage Pirellis when the morning temperatures start to dip regularly under 40. But the Michelin 4S are still exposed to below zero temperatures - just not on the car.
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Postal Bob

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In addition to everything you listed:
My car is stored outside in the backyard, and this has worked for 4 years now. I drive my car up onto Flatstopper ramps from Race Ramps. 10 Inch Wide Flatstoppers Storage Ramp - 4 Pack | Race Ramps It will help to prevent flat spots from developing on Summer tires in the cold weather, and keeps rain/snow off the tires.. I also inflate the tires to the maximum listed pressure(45psi) to also help with flat spots, and prevent damage to the Summer tires. I then put corrugated plastic sheets over the sides of the tires, under the car cover. This helps keeps rain and snow from getting to the rotors through the wheels. The rotors still develop rust over the winter, but it is definitely lessened by covering the wheels.
 

Garfy

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Drag radials go in the basement for the winter

I don't fill the gas tank or add anything

Wash, cover, park in the garage on the battery tender

If we get 60-65 degrees for a few days and there's no leftover salt on the roads, I'll take it out on a drive during the winter. Otherwise no starting it ever day/week/etc.

I don't change the oil before/after storing it. No point. I'm not tossing oil with only 2,000-3,000 miles on it, that's still very clean, and that's otherwise good for 15,000 miles because the car is going to sit (or sat) for 4 months.



I don't use it anymore. It can't hurt but I've seen it not help:

I put in my snowblower, and had to dig that yellow ethanol goop out of the carb in the spring

Now I just run rec gas for the last tank of the year in it, and I run it dry before storing.

Funny thing is my mower doesn't have that problem.
All of my "small engine" stuff (mower, generator, pressure washer, etc.) only use ethanol-free gas. I learned my lesson the hard way when my mower and pressure washer failed to start and I found that there was rust in the carburetor bowl caused by the water sitting in it that was left after the gasoline part evaporated. Ethanol absorbs moisture from the air and when the mower, etc. is only used every 3 weeks or so, the gas and ethanol evaporates leaving the water remaining. After tearing the carbs apart and cleaning out the rust from the jet and blowing out the passages, I never had an issue again once I began using ethanol-free gas.
 

robvas

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All of my "small engine" stuff (mower, generator, pressure washer, etc.) only use ethanol-free gas. I learned my lesson the hard way when my mower and pressure washer failed to start and I found that there was rust in the carburetor bowl caused by the water sitting in it that was left after the gasoline part evaporated. Ethanol absorbs moisture from the air and when the mower, etc. is only used every 3 weeks or so, the gas and ethanol evaporates leaving the water remaining. After tearing the carbs apart and cleaning out the rust from the jet and blowing out the passages, I never had an issue again once I began using ethanol-free gas.
I usually see one of two things, not sure if it's the design of the carb/bowl/gas tank?

Gas dries up and leaves white crystals behind

or

Yellow goo
 
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NPTR

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All great input / feedback guys - thank you all for this, super helpful stuff!

I wash her to get contaminants off the paint before sitting, and also to prevent swirls from dirt/grit when I put the cover on. I use a clear, loose fitting disposable plastic cover that lets plenty of light through and doesn't create a lot of friction against the paint. Use it once, and toss it in the Spring.

Haven't heard anything bad about Stabil, and also wasn't aware about fire risk from a good trickle charger, but I'll look into that.

Conflicting views on performance summer tires just sitting in the cold - I have heard/seen many different opinions on this and my conclusion is to just play it safe, and keep the rubber in the heated garage when the temps drop much further...overkill, maybe, but I'd rather spend a few extra bucks and get a second set, and never have to worry about it. Also, gives me the potential to have a little change in look with the seasons.

I thought about just leaving the car on jack stands and not bothering with the second set, but I'm not sure if it's OK to leave suspension unloaded for that long...no clue...

I don't worry about rodents because I use the deterrents...but agree, always good to consider them.

Thanks again guys, all good stuff!
 

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Postal Bob

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I use a clear, loose fitting disposable plastic cover that lets plenty of light through and doesn't create a lot of friction against the paint
Using a plastic cover is bad, as it doesn't breathe. You will trap moisture between the car and the cover, which could eventually lead to rust and corrosion.

Conflicting views on performance summer tires just sitting in the cold
Like I stated, my car is kept outdoors all winter, and I never had a problem with the tires following the procedure I listed earlier. And this included the super soft Pilot SC2's.
 

WildHorse

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1. Switch to storage insurance (still has full coverage) .
2. Put the car cover on .
3. See you in 5-6 months* .

*this includes whatever is in the tank, summer tires on.
 

Nfs1000f

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Seems to be too much over thinking going on here. Going on my seventh winter. The routine is always been the same. I chang the oil, clean the car, inflate all tires to 40 psi, fill the tank, add stable, lay down a plastic tarp on the concrete floor, Connect battery tender and cover the car. I do set up traps around the car just in case vermin come in. I’ve never had any issues with mice getting into the car. Car sits in an unconditioned garage. Come spring time the tires are not flat spotted.
This year it’ll be a little bit different because I drove the car only 2600 miles. I will not be changing the oil. I will not be washing the car before I put it away because my car only gets dusty since it’s never driven in the rain. I’ll be doing a dry wash using my California duster and detail spray, clean the bugs off the front which is protected by PPF and call it a day. I see no sense spending hours making the car look pristine when on the first day take it out in the spring he gets dirty.
 
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Postal Bob

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I think where you store your car, determines how much prep you do. Stored inside a garage requires less prep than if stored outdoors.
 

Blizzard_350

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Hey guys - as we start thinking about winter in the northeast, I was going through my storage check list and wondering if there was anything I could improve / do better this year. Here’s a brief rundown of what I do. I don’t drive the car sub 50 degrees or with salty roads, so she’s likely hibernating from mid-November to sometime in March. Would love to know if there’s any other tips / tricks / hacks you guys use…thanks!

Winter Storage Routine:
*Full gas tank and add Stabil fuel stabilizer.
*Full deep clean / deep detail and completely dry car before moving to storage.
*Check tire pressure / fill.
*Store car in a dry place under a car cover and on a trickle charger (my storage spot is not climate controlled, but is weather proof)
*Rodent deterrent under front and rear of car.
*Last year I had a fan on low moving air under the car, but that’s probably overkill.

Thought about wheel dollies this year to make moving her without starting a little easier if needed, but TBD on utility in my use case.

Would love to hear if any good ideas you guys have / would add…thank you!

-Chris
Chris,

I live up in New England and do all you do. I also add one of these to pull any moisture.
1730139651271-4x.webp
 

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sox3

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Car is always garaged, so for the winter I just park it, set the heater to 65 and that's it. If we get a nice clear day, check the tires,, take it for a spin. Park and repeat.
 

Bruce 8858

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Your whole program sounds really good. One thing you didn't mention, is I would inflate the tires to the max allowed on the side wall of the tire.
Would raising the car on jack stands help with flat spots on tires and mice?
 

Trap

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Would raising the car on jack stands help with flat spots on tires and mice?
That would help with all 3 problems. If you have to leave it on the ground air them up to the max that the tire allows.
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