VMP Odin Dying Issue

[illtal]

Typo : I meant to say improve heat shielding on fuel lines.

Thanks @illtal.

What spacer plates are you running?
How much did they raise the blower?
Did you add a thermal blanket under the IM as well?

Spacers may cause clearance issues with my setup. Not looking to ditch the strut tower brace or replace the factory motor mounts

The heat shield on the lines won't help much because it's the heat transfer to the rails that causing the problem.

I have harrop spacers. They are 3mm thick( something not thick at all) We reused the stock mounting bolts. You have a PD blower with the strut top?

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[SH!FT]

The heat shield on the lines won't help much because it's the heat transfer to the rails that causing the problem.

I have harrop spacers. They are 3mm thick( something not thick at all) We reused the stock mounting bolts. You have a PD blower with the strut top?

Thanks.

Yup. I made spacers: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...t-top-mount-super-charger.131037/post-3563639

0.46" spacers make the FP strut brace fit between the Roush blower and factory hood.

 

[SH!FT]

What strut tower are you running with your setup?

Ford Strut Tower Brace; Silver (FR3Z-16A200-A)

 

[SH!FT]

The heat shield on the lines won't help much because it's the heat transfer to the rails that causing the problem.

I have harrop spacers. They are 3mm thick( something not thick at all) We reused the stock mounting bolts. You have a PD blower with the strut top?

@illtal are these the correct spacers?
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/ford-mustang-gt-thermal-spacers

You're running an Edelbrock SC on pump gas correct?

 

[illtal]

@illtal are these the correct spacers?
https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/ford-mustang-gt-thermal-spacers

You're running an Edelbrock SC on pump gas correct?

those are them but email harrop usa for them when i bought them they was 200

 

[SH!FT]

I think there are two different issues we are talking about. I also had the vapor lock issue and a check valve in the fuel system completely solved it. This showed up as a long crank before starting if the engine was hot and sat a little while. Then there’s the idle down after hot restart. I’d don’t think these are the same thing.

I finally had a minute and a warm day to do some troubleshooting on my hot start issue. Pretty sure it's a fuel vapor issue.

@engineermike was your vapor lock caused by a faulty factory check valve, or are you saying that you had to add one to the fuel system?
In either cause, can you post some purchasing info for that component?

I'm seeing that some older cars are resorting to vapor separator fuel filters as a result of current day fuel properties.

 

[engineermike]

@engineermike was your vapor lock caused by a faulty factory check valve, or are you saying that you had to add one to the fuel system?
In either cause, can you post some purchasing info for that component?

The old dw400’s didn’t have a check valve built in. I just swapped to a new one.

 

[SH!FT]

The old dw400’s didn’t have a check valve built in. I just swapped to a new one.

Oooh gotcha.. it's on the aftermarket pump. My plumbing is stock other than the rails and injectors.
Would you know off hand if the factory pump has a built in check valve like the DeatschWerks, or if there's one somewhere inline on the factory delivery?

Thanks for the good info here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/dw400-issues.144681/post-2962527

 

[illtal]

Oooh gotcha.. it's on the aftermarket pump. My plumbing is stock other than the rails and injectors.
Would you know off hand if the factory pump has a built in check valve like the DeatschWerks, or if there's one somewhere inline on the factory delivery?

Thanks for the good info here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/dw400-issues.144681/post-2962527

Factory pump should have a check valve, but I think that the problem you're having is slightly different.

Edit
No check valve just means the fuel drains back to the tank so on "Hot" starts you must let the pumps prime the lines up to pressure before you start the car.

Fuel Vapor (Vapor Lock) is a heat problem. boiling fuel turns to vapor inside the rails/lines. So either the Pressure at the rails need to increase or the volume (which is fixed) needs to increase to clear the vapor.

I have a stock pump with a BAP much fewer issues than when I first installed the 2650

 

[SH!FT]

Factory pump should have a check valve, but I think that the problem you're having is slightly different.

Fuel Vapor (Vapor Lock) is a heat problem.

I have a stock pump with a BAP much fewer issues than when I first installed the 2650

Same. My pump voltage reads 18v. 20v at WOT. I'm thinking those spacers you recommended would help as well.

I'm 99% sure it's a heat issue when the system is static. I don't think the pressure left in my fuel system is great enough to overcome as temps continue to raise with the car off.


My Findings:
1) KOEO IAT2 at 130: Car starts rough.
2) KOEO IAT2 at 160: Car starts rough on 3rd crank. Unwanted concerned looks or conversion with strangers.

At either temp listed above: I have to be super careful pulling onto the street initially.
The car will go lean and hesitate as I ease through 1st and 2nd. If I punch it before the rails purge, it will go into limp mode for a short period (~10 secs). Clutch in and blip the throttle gets it out of limp a bit faster.

Testing:
After hot starts I've tried letting IAT2 drop to 100 before driving away (drops quick with the chiller). No change. The car will still hesitate or limp onto the street.

No hesitation or limp if I hot start it then rev it like a d-bag before driving away.

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