Strut brace that will fit top mount super charger

[Mootang]

Can you please tell me who to contact for one of these. Thank you

I just contact Schropp Tuning @N/Angel on here. Just PM her and I made the purchase from there.

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[SH!FT]

After reading your post, I installed 4 Spacer under the Cross Brace, and my mounting nut are now flush with the top of the stud. I added a few drops of Red TherdLocker, just to make sure it won't come loose. Now the brace clears the supercharger.
The only part of adding the Roush Supercharger I did not like, was leaving the Cross Brace off.
Thank you for your Post.
Bob Joseph

Loctite 271??
If so, give service techs a heads up before they touch your car. It will likely require some heat to remove those nuts now.

Happy to help. I'll post a write up when I finish mounting the factory GT strut brace over the Roush 2.65L hopefully its weekend.

 

[SH!FT]

Anther option to consider is a center-lock nut and thin fender washer.
https://www.mcmaster.com/self-locki...ted-thread/distorted-thread-type~center-lock/

These center-lock nuts are reversible and should grip with only ~3/16" of available thread. They would replace the four W712334-S440 nylon lock flange nuts. M10 x 1.5... I think??

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Anther option to consider is a center-lock nut and thin fender washer.
https://www.mcmaster.com/self-locki...ted-thread/distorted-thread-type~center-lock/

These center-lock nuts are reversible and should grip with only ~3/16" of available thread. They would replace the four W712334-S440 nylon lock flange nuts. M10 x 1.5... I think??

I tried it on mine and for me it was a no go. I ordered one from Schropp Tuning in Germany that was designed to fit the Roush.

 

[SH!FT]

I tried it on mine and for me it was a no go. I ordered one from Schropp Tuning in Germany that was designed to fit the Roush.

Were there not enough threads to engage the locking mid-thread or did that irregular thread not fit?

 

[SH!FT]

So far..

If you're trying to determine how much room you have between the supercharger and your hood here's an old school trick.
Loosely crumple a ball of tin foil and place it on top of the SC then close the hood all the way. When you open the hood the foil ball will be as thick as the gap between hood and SC.
We used to do that to figure out how tall the air cleaner would be on our old rides.

As explained above.

The tallest point on the TVS 2.65 housing is that center rib. The thickness of tin foil after closing my hood was about 1" from the top of the center rib. The factory GT strut brace is 0.75" - 0.8" thick.

I'll be starting with a 0.2" gap between the SC and strut brace and will continue to add 0.05" thick 3/8" fender washers (1.5" OD) until the hood won't close correctly.


Aluminum spacers
I need 0.375" to make the factory nut flush.

Spacer OD is 1.5". Center hole is 13/32".
0.36" thick spacer gives me the 0.2" gap at the back of the strut brace. The front gap is less.

 

[Rickycardo]

That's perfection.

 

[SH!FT]

I think I'm happy with the setup using 0.41" spacers. 0.46" is probably doable but, the hood wouldn't latch unless slammed .

***Edit** 0.46" spacer thickness is good!

It's late. I'll have to wait until tomorrow for a test drive and some high rpm revs.
Yes.. I'll be painting the strut brace black.

• I can latch the hood without letting it slam.
• The spacers are 0.410" thick and stacked on top of the cowl brace.
• This spacing results a 0.25" gap between the SC and rear lip of the strut brace.
• The gap is ~0.19" between the SC and front lip of the strut brace.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts work great with these 0.05" thick fender washers. No loctite required on the driver side. That stupid brown retainer clip can still be secured on the passenger side.

Tips
Get a base point for the hood gaps, flex, and alignment imperfections before adding the brace:

• Inspect all of the hood seams. They're not perfect and never going to be.
• Lightly press and pull on all sides of the hood to see how everything flexes (latched and unlatched).

Unlock the car and roll down the driver side window before disconnecting the battery (negative first).

Lowering the 2 rubber bumpers is helpful. It caused slight play in the hood while latched. This allowed me push down on the latched hood to feel the hood insulation start to compress against the brace as I increased the spacing with fender washers.

 

[TonyNJ]

I think I'm happy with the setup using 0.41" spacers. 0.46" is probably doable but, the hood wouldn't latch unless slammed .

It's late. I'll have to wait until tomorrow for a test drive and some high rpm revs.
Yes.. I'll be painting the strut brace black.

• I can latch the hood without letting it slam.
• The spacers are 0.410" thick and stacked on top of the cowl brace.
• This spacing results a 0.25" gap between the SC and rear lip of the strut brace.
• The gap is ~0.19" between the SC and front lip of the strut brace.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts work great with these 0.05" thick fender washers. No loctite required on the driver side. That stupid brown retainer clip can still be secured on the passenger side.

Tips
Get a base point for the hood gaps, flex, and alignment imperfections before adding the brace:

• Inspect all of the hood seams. They're not perfect and never going to be.
• Lightly press and pull on all sides of the hood to see how everything flexes (latched and unlatched).

Unlock the car and roll down the driver side window before disconnecting the battery (negative first).

Lowering the 2 rubber bumpers is helpful. It caused slight play in the hood while latched. This allowed me push down on the latched hood to feel the hood insulation start to compress against the brace as I increased the spacing with fender washers.

Smart with the tinfoil. I'll use that method for other random projects going forward. Awesome to see the brace fit with the SC.

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Were there not enough threads to engage the locking mid-thread or did that irregular thread not fit?

Yes, exactly. Check out Schropp Tuning. I just bought there's which fits with the Roush superchargers. It's being powder coated at present. It's really well made.

 

[SH!FT]

Nice! I'd probably go that route if I didn't already have the Ford brace.
Post some pics of the Schropp Tuning brace once installed!

I sandblasted then sprayed mine with bed liner.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts are grabbing 2-3 threads with the center lock. No issues so far on the driver side. The nut is stacked on a 0.05" thick fender washer and 3/8" ID by 1.25" OD rubber gasket to protect the paint. The gasket compresses to ~1.5" OD at 25 ft-lbs.

If they loosen, I'll mill 0.05" off the bottom face of the lock nut to lower the engagement height.

 

[WD Pro]

Nice! I'd probably go that route if I didn't already have the Ford brace.
Post some pics of the Schropp Tuning brace once installed!

I sandblasted then sprayed mine with bed liner.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts are grabbing 2-3 threads with the center lock. No issues so far on the driver side. The nut is stacked on a 0.05" thick fender washer and 3/8" ID by 1.25" OD rubber gasket to protect the paint. The gasket compresses to ~1.5" OD at 25 ft-lbs.

If they loosen, I'll mill 0.05" off the bottom face of the lock nut to lower the engagement height.

I also drilled / tapped my plaque, but I used a layer of thick PPF to stop it vibrating

WD

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Nice! I'd probably go that route if I didn't already have the Ford brace.
Post some pics of the Schropp Tuning brace once installed!

I sandblasted then sprayed mine with bed liner.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts are grabbing 2-3 threads with the center lock. No issues so far on the driver side. The nut is stacked on a 0.05" thick fender washer and 3/8" ID by 1.25" OD rubber gasket to protect the paint. The gasket compresses to ~1.5" OD at 25 ft-lbs.

If they loosen, I'll mill 0.05" off the bottom face of the lock nut to lower the engagement height.

Nice job. Looks good black.

 

[monte87]

After reading your post, I installed 4 Spacer under the Cross Brace, and my mounting nut are now flush with the top of the stud. I added a few drops of Red TherdLocker, just to make sure it won't come loose. Now the brace clears the supercharger.
The only part of adding the Roush Supercharger I did not like, was leaving the Cross Brace off.
Thank you for your Post.
Bob Joseph

Awesome!!! How many spacers? Or washers? What was.the size.
Thanks Anthony

 

[monte87]

Nice! I'd probably go that route if I didn't already have the Ford brace.
Post some pics of the Schropp Tuning brace once installed!

I sandblasted then sprayed mine with bed liner.

These M10 x 1.5 center-locknuts are grabbing 2-3 threads with the center lock. No issues so far on the driver side. The nut is stacked on a 0.05" thick fender washer and 3/8" ID by 1.25" OD rubber gasket to protect the paint. The gasket compresses to ~1.5" OD at 25 ft-lbs.

If they loosen, I'll mill 0.05" off the bottom face of the lock nut to lower the engagement height.

Awesome job!!!
How many of those washers did you use to space the brace??
Thanks Anthony

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