The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[ZPD]

One way to skin this cat. Fluidyne triple pass and setrab 948 for engine oil. Ducting made from 0.040” aluminum sheet.

Next is diff and trans coolers.

Do you have any other pics of your aluminum ducting? Perhaps after cutting and before installation? Also, what are those lower brackets under the frail rails?

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[Bridgie]

Front Splitter support Frame I believe....

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Do you have any other pics of your aluminum ducting? Perhaps after cutting and before installation? Also, what are those lower brackets under the frail rails?

I didn’t take too many pics of pieces before install. It’s a painstaking process figuring out how it all needs to be shaped, bent, affixed, etc. each car will be a bit different depending on your setup.

Only other pic I have is in process:

Those brackets are quick release splitter mounts. Picture with my old ducting setup:

 

[SVO MkII]

I hope this hood vent will finally solve my coolant/oil temp issues at track days. The larger rad, oil cooler, and ducting wasn't enough, so I'm hoping this does the trick. Road America, 4/29-5/1...fingers crossed!

 

[Bridgie]

What oil cooler did you go with.?
A kit or put a bigger core together yourself..?

 

[Performance nut]

I hope this hood vent will finally solve my coolant/oil temp issues at track days. The larger rad, oil cooler, and ducting wasn't enough, so I'm hoping this does the trick. Road America, 4/29-5/1...fingers crossed!

While enjoying a small bump to your front end downforce.

Are those Race Louvers?

 

[SVO MkII]

What oil cooler did you go with.?
A kit or put a bigger core together yourself..?

A Mishimoto. The EB didn't come with a factory oil cooler.

 

[SVO MkII]

While enjoying a small bump to your front end downforce.

Are those Race Louvers?

Yes, Race Lovers track louvers. I also added the EMP rear wicker bill, to hopefully keep the aero balanced.

 

[TundraOnKings]

An update after 2 track days on my Mishimoto oil cooler, trans cooler, and wrapped exhaust and BG75-140 rear diff.

Rear diff:
is still perfectly fine which I’m surprised about. I’m running Oregon Raceway Park (16 turns, 400ft elevation - it’s a rollercoaster) at 2:02 and PIR Portland at 1:31.

Trans:
remains right in the middle, very happy about that!

Engine Oil:
Still shows as if nothing has changed. Run up to the yellow pretty easy, and hit the edge of the red.

This was a 32 degree day with snow at ORP, and 50 degree day at PIR.

I’ve read a thread on the factory Ford system not knowing I have more oil capacity and cooling, which is why it’s still indicating hot - is that correct?

I’m not a great driver, first time on track was last year.

PIR




ORP

 

[shogun32]

I’ve read a thread on the factory Ford system not knowing I have more oil capacity and cooling, which is why it’s still indicating hot - is that correct?

oil temp is derived/imputed (not measured) from coolant temp, yes I believe that is the case. There's gotta be a simple way to put an in-line temp sensor into the mix even if it's as ghetto as temp sensitive stickers on the oil filter. Oil sandwich plates typically have a spare NPT hole in them into which you can thread a sensor. Then the trick is to wire it up to a bluetooth transmitter or hardwire gauge.

 

[TundraOnKings]

oil temp is derived/imputed (not measured) from coolant temp, yes I believe that is the case. There's gotta be a simple way to put an in-line temp sensor into the mix even if it's as ghetto as temp sensitive stickers on the oil filter. Oil sandwich plates typically have a spare NPT hole in them into which you can thread a sensor. Then the trick is to wire it up to a bluetooth transmitter or hardwire gauge.

Has nobody still done this yet? How is @Flyhalf monitoring a true oil temp reading?
And also how is he getting around the whole limp mode deal if the car doesn’t know he has so much aftermarket cooling capability? I know he has a tune, was the limp mode tuned out as well?
I was really trying to keep my engine stock for at least 3 years to maintain the warranty, because I’m only 10 months in and 5K miles, so have quite a bit of warranty left.
Not sure it’s valid now with the 2 aftermarket coolers though lol.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Has nobody still done this yet? How is @Flyhalf monitoring a true oil temp reading?
And also how is he getting around the whole limp mode deal if the car doesn’t know he has so much aftermarket cooling capability? I know he has a tune, was the limp mode tuned out as well?
I was really trying to keep my engine stock for at least 3 years to maintain the warranty, because I’m only 10 months in and 5K miles, so have quite a bit of warranty left.
Not sure it’s valid now with the 2 aftermarket coolers though lol.

There’s a oil level float in the oil pan. You can remove it and place a temp sensor for an external gauge. PCM does not throw any code without the level sensor and no dash lights either. This is how I’m doing it.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

I hope this hood vent will finally solve my coolant/oil temp issues at track days. The larger rad, oil cooler, and ducting wasn't enough, so I'm hoping this does the trick. Road America, 4/29-5/1...fingers crossed!

The hood vent will def help, at least with coolant temps and prob a bit on oil temps. Unless your boxing has tons of holes your coolant temps should be fine. Mine were fine boxed in with stock eco PP rad with that vent. But the mishi oil coolers are pretty small so I’m not so sure there.

 

[Ewheels]

Has nobody still done this yet? How is @Flyhalf monitoring a true oil temp reading?
And also how is he getting around the whole limp mode deal if the car doesn’t know he has so much aftermarket cooling capability? I know he has a tune, was the limp mode tuned out as well?
I was really trying to keep my engine stock for at least 3 years to maintain the warranty, because I’m only 10 months in and 5K miles, so have quite a bit of warranty left.
Not sure it’s valid now with the 2 aftermarket coolers though lol.

Alessandro uses an actual gauge wired into the NPT port on the sandwich plate. Mount the gauge anywhere in the car you want. Autometer is a solid brand for analog or digital gauges and they make an A-Pillar gauge mount.
As far as bypassing limp mode, I do not know.

 

[luc]

An update after 2 track days on my Mishimoto oil cooler, trans cooler, and wrapped exhaust and BG75-140 rear diff.

Rear diff:
is still perfectly fine which I’m surprised about. I’m running Oregon Raceway Park (16 turns, 400ft elevation - it’s a rollercoaster) at 2:02 and PIR Portland at 1:31.

Trans:
remains right in the middle, very happy about that!

Engine Oil:
Still shows as if nothing has changed. Run up to the yellow pretty easy, and hit the edge of the red.

This was a 32 degree day with snow at ORP, and 50 degree day at PIR.

I’ve read a thread on the factory Ford system not knowing I have more oil capacity and cooling, which is why it’s still indicating hot - is that correct?

I’m not a great driver, first time on track was last year.

PIR




ORP

I have an Harrop oil cooler, mounted parallel to the ground, with an oil temp sensor on the “out” oil line
The highest that i ever saw on track was 260* on a 105* day

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