The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[ihasnostang]

having the extra oil capacity from that large heat exchanger is nice, but that kit requires the bumper belly pan (?) to be removed? if it is mounted paralell it seems that a smaller one with a fan would be more efficient than a large one without.

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[Kermitz]

having the extra oil capacity from that large heat exchanger is nice, but that kit requires the bumper belly pan (?) to be removed? if it is mounted paralell it seems that a smaller one with a fan would be more efficient than a large one without.

You only have to remove the belly pan to install the Harrop kit. Once the kit is installed, you reinstall the belly pan.
There’s plenty of space for the air to come in through the lower grill, pass through the cooler and exit under the car.

 

[shogun32]

having the extra oil capacity from that large heat exchanger is nice, but that kit requires the bumper belly pan (?) to be removed?

you talking Harrop? the belly pan is intact, even essential to correct operation. I'm probably going to use weather stripping to box the input side. You don't need massive air for any of these radiators to work. about 30mph is plenty. More and all you get is turbulence and stall.

 

[TeeLew]

And viceversa

Somewhat, but not as much. Of course, it's about the entire quantity of heat rejected, but the heat transfer rates heavily favor the water side. That's likely the reason the Eco's don't even have a real oil sensor.

 

[TeeLew]

I talked to Ron Davis this afternoon. He produces an Eco radiator with all the factory mounts @ 1.375" thick & $1287. They're all custom with about a 5 week lead.

 

[SVO MkII]

I talked to Ron Davis this afternoon. He produces an Eco radiator with all the factory mounts @ 1.375" thick & $1287. They're all custom with about a 5 week lead.

1.375" seems a bit thin. The Mishimoto core is listed at 2.05" thick. Here is a pick of the Mishi next to the factory PP radiator.

 

[TundraOnKings]

I'll pass on Harrop.
Either going Mishi kit cause it's cheap or piece together a 948

I would not go Mishimoto. You get what you pay for, and doing this install twice does not make sense. Just ask me. I just did over winter, tracked in 30 degrees 3 weeks back and 50 degrees last weekend. Basically did nothing.

 

[TeeLew]

I would not go Mishimoto. You get what you pay for, and doing this install twice does not make sense. Just ask me. I just did over winter, tracked in 30 degrees 3 weeks back and 50 degrees last weekend. Basically did nothing.

Each rad is custom. I'm sure he'd build whatever you wanted. My guess is that his rads cool better than an equivalent Mish, but I have nothing to back that up.

I've also thought that it might be worth putting a GT350 nose on the car and have 2 smaller auxiliary rads in the corners. That quickly becomes a lot of work, but it might be what is really required.

Find a smaller A/C condenser, so the rad gets more air has also crossed my mind.

 

[shogun32]

I talked to Ron Davis this afternoon. He produces an Eco radiator with all the factory mounts @ 1.375" thick & $1287. They're all custom with about a 5 week lead.

Are there 2 of him? I asked him just 2 days ago and said he only does 5.0 rads. I even mentioned the scca example and said nothing. Grrrr

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

1.375" seems a bit thin. The Mishimoto core is listed at 2.05" thick. Here is a pick of the Mishi next to the factory PP radiator.

Most Ron Davis rads are triple pass so cool better than single pass.

Been meaning to ask you, do you run 5050 water and coolant? If so drop the coolant as low as you are comfortable with and add a bottle or two of water wetter. Will help with heat rejection.

 

[Flyhalf]

Somewhat, but not as much. Of course, it's about the entire quantity of heat rejected, but the heat transfer rates heavily favor the water side. That's likely the reason the Eco's don't even have a real oil sensor.

Neither the GT

 

[TundraOnKings]

Each rad is custom. I'm sure he'd build whatever you wanted. My guess is that his rads cool better than an equivalent Mish, but I have nothing to back that up.

I've also thought that it might be worth putting a GT350 nose on the car and have 2 smaller auxiliary rads in the corners. That quickly becomes a lot of work, but it might be what is really required.

Find a smaller A/C condenser, so the rad gets more air has also crossed my mind.

My quote of ewheels was specifically in regards to the Mishimoto Oil Cooler kit for the S550 Mustang GT. If that’s what he is considering, I highly recommend against it.

 

[Flyhalf]

My quote of ewheels was specifically in regards to the Mishimoto Oil Cooler kit for the S550 Mustang GT. If that’s what he is considering, I highly recommend against it.

Well I have it since 2018.
15k miles.
It does.a good job for 'normal HPDE speeds or time trials '
For endurance definetely small.
I have it without a thermostat.
For the 10speed guys. please remember to PUT IT IN THE LOWER GRILLE. Cause otherwise you cover your trans OEM cooler

 

[luc]

Well I have it since 2018.
15k miles.
It does.a good job for 'normal HPDE speeds or time trials '
For endurance definetely small.
I have it without a thermostat.
For the 10speed guys. please remember to PUT IT IN THE LOWER GRILLE. Cause otherwise you cover your trans OEM cooler

Why are you bypassing the thermostat?
There is no upside to it, only downside

 

[TeeLew]

Been meaning to ask you, do you run 5050 water and coolant? If so drop the coolant as low as you are comfortable with and add a bottle or two of water wetter. Will help with heat rejection.

This helps, but there are some things to consider. The best choice for cooling is distilled water with a little bit of Water Wetter or that similar stuff from VP. This gives the pump lubrication and your best heat transfer rates. The problem is that now you get all of your boiling point elevation due to pressure in the system. When we're running elevated temps (for sure anything over 230*) & pressure of the cooling system we put real stress on the rad. It's entirely possible to get the cooling system hot enough that the pressure balloons the radiator passages. They go from a flat, oblong shape to round. This destroys the airflow through the rad and causes all sorts of head scratching until you try to look through the rad and see there's no airflow.

If you don't have a rad which can take the higher pressures, then they can be damaged just through use. High strength AL alloys is one reason a racing rad costs more than a 'normal' one.

And, I'll still harp on the temps in general. Best power and reliability will be about 185*F. In my previous experience with the Eco/Dura and the Ford mod engines, they do not put up with elevated temps well. I have no idea how they would operate at 240*, because by 220, they'd already shat themselves. It may very well be that the stock arrangement is chronically under-cooled for track duty and it needs a complete rethink.

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