There seems to be different ratings used... some have 2ohm drivers (like me in my 16 PP Prem) and others have 4ohm. Your best bet would be to verify what your car came with.Are the speakers 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm ?
ForTehNguyen used some Dayton RS100's which are 1.8" deep in this thread;Would a 3.5" midrange with a mounting depth of 1.8" fit? I could make a spacer if required, and there's enough room between the door panel and the driver...
I would jump on partsexpress.com and try to match resistance and dimensions. My car has about 1k miles on it and I think I already hear some distortion from mine on the passenger side so it may be a sign to start preparing for a full build!Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?
How does one verify which speakers? The parts diagrams don't seem to indicate any differences outside of convertible/coup and branded/unbranded.There seems to be different ratings used... some have 2ohm drivers (like me in my 16 PP Prem) and others have 4ohm. Your best bet would be to verify what your car came with.
Not sure about the "no modding" part, but I've heard good things about the Infinity Kappa Perfect 300m and the Audiofrog GS40 could be a good choice as well.Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?
If you used a distribution block to provide power to your amps, you could just add a smaller guage wire to that for you DSP, they typically don't use much power.I would jump on partsexpress.com and try to match resistance and dimensions. My car has about 1k miles on it and I think I already hear some distortion from mine on the passenger side so it may be a sign to start preparing for a full build!
With that being said, I want to start my build and had a quick question.
When powering my DSP should I:
(a) Tap the power and grounds from one of my amp's 8 ga wires (not sure of how to do this cleanly and safely or
(b) try getting power and ground near the fuse box and keep the aftermarket DSP in the stock location? I want to do whatever has the least change of introducing a ground loop or whine in the system.
If you are just trying to disable the center channel, it might be easier to disconnect at the speaker itself?Does anyone know how to release the pins on the amplifier brown connector, Molex# C2385B ?
I want to release pin 2, green wire, to the center speaker, and then be able to reconnect at car trade-in.
You'd have to physically remove the speakers and check the labels...How does one verify which speakers? The parts diagrams don't seem to indicate any differences outside of convertible/coup and branded/unbranded.
Okay. Just to be clear. my setup will be like the picture below. Are you saying to just add an extra small wire in the compression fittings of A and B for power and ground to the DSP? Because I won't have any "spare" outputs.If you used a distribution block to provide power to your amps, you could just add a smaller guage wire to that for you DSP, they typically don't use much power.