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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

bless0

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Are the speakers 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm ?
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Lightning Struck

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Would a 3.5" midrange with a mounting depth of 1.8" fit? I could make a spacer if required, and there's enough room between the door panel and the driver...
 

mumbles

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Are the speakers 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm ?
There seems to be different ratings used... some have 2ohm drivers (like me in my 16 PP Prem) and others have 4ohm. Your best bet would be to verify what your car came with.
 

mumbles

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Would a 3.5" midrange with a mounting depth of 1.8" fit? I could make a spacer if required, and there's enough room between the door panel and the driver...
ForTehNguyen used some Dayton RS100's which are 1.8" deep in this thread;
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29714&highlight=dayton

Not sure if he used a spacer or not, you might IM him.

My speakers were 1.2", but I used a razor blade and trimmed the plastic ribs on the inside of the door panel to give the speaker surround some clearance.
 

schenoy1

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Does anyone know (for sure) the Gauge size of the stock wires to the door and rear speakers, 14 or 16 Gauge? Thx.
 

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Diocletian

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Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?
 

GTP

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Does anyone know how to release the pins on the amplifier brown connector, Molex# C2385B ?

I want to release pin 2, green wire, to the center speaker, and then be able to reconnect at car trade-in.
 

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Does anyone know where and how the 6.5s and the tweeter wiring separates on a base car? I can't find anything except that that they are on same line and the tweeters have the blocker on the back. I'm hoping it is harnessed in the kickpanel.
 

NotMarc

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Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?
I would jump on partsexpress.com and try to match resistance and dimensions. My car has about 1k miles on it and I think I already hear some distortion from mine on the passenger side so it may be a sign to start preparing for a full build!


With that being said, I want to start my build and had a quick question.

When powering my DSP should I:

(a) Tap the power and grounds from one of my amp's 8 ga wires (not sure of how to do this cleanly and safely or
(b) try getting power and ground near the fuse box and keep the aftermarket DSP in the stock location? I want to do whatever has the least change of introducing a ground loop or whine in the system.
 

michail71

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There seems to be different ratings used... some have 2ohm drivers (like me in my 16 PP Prem) and others have 4ohm. Your best bet would be to verify what your car came with.
How does one verify which speakers? The parts diagrams don't seem to indicate any differences outside of convertible/coup and branded/unbranded.
 

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mumbles

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Both my 3.5" door speakers in my new 2018 GT premium(401a non-shaker) are already blown. Instead of replacing them with crappy OEM I figured now would be a good time to upgrade them. Any recommendations for direct upgrades(no modding needed) for them?
Not sure about the "no modding" part, but I've heard good things about the Infinity Kappa Perfect 300m and the Audiofrog GS40 could be a good choice as well.
 

mumbles

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I would jump on partsexpress.com and try to match resistance and dimensions. My car has about 1k miles on it and I think I already hear some distortion from mine on the passenger side so it may be a sign to start preparing for a full build!


With that being said, I want to start my build and had a quick question.

When powering my DSP should I:

(a) Tap the power and grounds from one of my amp's 8 ga wires (not sure of how to do this cleanly and safely or
(b) try getting power and ground near the fuse box and keep the aftermarket DSP in the stock location? I want to do whatever has the least change of introducing a ground loop or whine in the system.
If you used a distribution block to provide power to your amps, you could just add a smaller guage wire to that for you DSP, they typically don't use much power.
 

mumbles

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Does anyone know how to release the pins on the amplifier brown connector, Molex# C2385B ?

I want to release pin 2, green wire, to the center speaker, and then be able to reconnect at car trade-in.
If you are just trying to disable the center channel, it might be easier to disconnect at the speaker itself?
 

mumbles

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How does one verify which speakers? The parts diagrams don't seem to indicate any differences outside of convertible/coup and branded/unbranded.
You'd have to physically remove the speakers and check the labels...
 

NotMarc

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If you used a distribution block to provide power to your amps, you could just add a smaller guage wire to that for you DSP, they typically don't use much power.
Okay. Just to be clear. my setup will be like the picture below. Are you saying to just add an extra small wire in the compression fittings of A and B for power and ground to the DSP? Because I won't have any "spare" outputs.

51ezXxvWCuL.jpg
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