Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[myMUSICveins]

no suggestions for my earlier post??

I have to decide where I’m stealing the signal from for the JL Audio LoC-22.

I assumed grabbing a full range signal pre amp(at the drivers kick panel?) would be the best signal to steal from and let the JL jx250 amp do the job of cutting out the upper frequencies.

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[trkpny]

I built an amplifier rack that fits in my spare tire well and I am looking for a good ground point—but I don't want to accidentally drill into the gas tank. Is there a safe location in the well? The sides of the well "sound" hollow...

I've read that others in this thread say that they have used the bolt at the base of the rear seat, but that is more than 18" from my amps which is beyond the recommended limit for the ground wire.

 

[randy_tho]

I built an amplifier rack that fits in my spare tire well and I am looking for a good ground point—but I don't want to accidentally drill into the gas tank. Is there a safe location in the well? The sides of the well "sound" hollow...

I've read that others in this thread say that they have used the bolt at the base of the rear seat, but that is more than 18" from my amps which is beyond the recommended limit for the ground wire.

Isn't there a bracket point in the middle that a lot of installs use?

 

[trkpny]

Isn't there a bracket point in the middle that a lot of installs use?

Yes. It is a good point or the sides of the compartment itself (the gas tank is farther forward).

 

[trkpny]

I am most of the way through an upgrade. I got the dash apart last night and was looking at the wires and a couple of questions come to mind.

I am using a JL Audio Fix 82 as an LOC. I want the full audio range, so I figured that I could get all of the channels at that location. I bought the Parrot FOR 11ck harness, but now I'm not sure where to place it. (I also want to use the factory wiring—except for the tweeters).

If I use the pigtail on the harness, it seems like I would be getting the signal after the HU but before it entered the ACM. This seems to defeat the purpose of the time delay correction and signal summing of the Fix 82.

But I want to maintain the system sounds. Do I need to access the wires that come OUT of the ACM instead? Then, my speaker leads would go back in at that same point. Is that correct? Did I waste the $50 on the Parrot?

 

[trkpny]

Does anyone know where I can tap into a switched power wire in the rear of the car?

**Edit** There is a perfectly good post on this earlier in this forum that I missed. There is a blue and white switched power supply in the wiring bundle that runs into the trunk deck.

 

[myMUSICveins]

I am most of the way through an upgrade. I got the dash apart last night and was looking at the wires and a couple of questions come to mind.

I am using a JL Audio Fix 82 as an LOC. I want the full audio range, so I figured that I could get all of the channels at that location. I bought the Parrot FOR 11ck harness, but now I'm not sure where to place it. (I also want to use the factory wiring—except for the tweeters).

If I use the pigtail on the harness, it seems like I would be getting the signal after the HU but before it entered the ACM. This seems to defeat the purpose of the time delay correction and signal summing of the Fix 82.

But I want to maintain the system sounds. Do I need to access the wires that come OUT of the ACM instead? Then, my speaker leads would go back in at that same point. Is that correct? Did I waste the $50 on the Parrot?

I can’t get much a reply either. Not sure how your product differs from mine (JL Audio LoC-22) or the purpose of the parrot you are talking about. I had planned on taking full range signal post HU pre amp behind the drivers kick panel. I read somewhere this is where you can find the preamp full range sound directly from the HU

I was planning on running RCAs back from the JL Audio LoC-22 to my Jx250 amp

I think the mids and highs sound fine so leaving all that stock and just adding a JL stealthbox to the otherwise stock setup

 

[trkpny]

I can’t get much a reply either. Not sure how your product differs from mine (JL Audio LoC-22) or the purpose of the parrot you are talking about. I had planned on taking full range signal post HU pre amp behind the drivers kick panel. I read somewhere this is where you can find the preamp full range sound directly from the HU

I was planning on running RCAs back from the JL Audio LoC-22 to my Jx250 amp

I think the mids and highs sound fine so leaving all that stock and just adding a JL stealthbox to the otherwise stock setup

The difference is the Fix 82 has an equalizer that flattens out the signal and it also removes any time alignment (the purpose of both would be defeated if my splice comes before the Audio Control Unit.) If you are good with any equalization and time alignment that Ford adds in, your setup would work fine.

Parrot is the brand name of the wiring harness that goes in between the head unit and the audio control. I am using it for two reasons: 1) I don't have an amplifier behind the driver's kick panel (don't have premium sound), and 2) I didn't want to cut the factory wires.

I almost have my system hooked up. I should be finished tomorrow night and I will let you know how it sounds.

 

[myMUSICveins]

The difference is the Fix 82 has an equalizer that flattens out the signal and it also removes any time alignment (the purpose of both would be defeated if my splice comes before the Audio Control Unit.) If you are good with any equalization and time alignment that Ford adds in, your setup would work fine.

Parrot is the brand name of the wiring harness that goes in between the head unit and the audio control. I am using it for two reasons: 1) I don't have an amplifier behind the driver's kick panel (don't have premium sound), and 2) I didn't want to cut the factory wires.

I almost have my system hooked up. I should be finished tomorrow night and I will let you know how it sounds.

Yea the stock mids and highs sound pretty good actually (9 speaker premium?) I definitely don’t want any sound processing being done for the sub I’m adding which should be the case if I grab the signal before the amp which is where I assumed the additional sound processing is being done.

That parrot harness looks great, I wonder if it works on the GT350 9 speaker setup. This is called the premium sound option? It came with the NAV and sync 3 for me.

in your case if you are using the harness and grabbing the signal before your ACU (amp for me?) do you need the fix82? I figured the sound right out of the HU would be unaltered already?

 

[trkpny]

I already had the Fix82 and originally, I just wanted to use it as a LOC.

I wanted to use the original wiring to the speakers, which is why I wanted to make sure I was using the harness to intercept and return the signal after any processing took place. If it is in the wrong place, the system will add processing to my clean signal. The harness will only work in that exact spot, so if it is wrong, I am SOL.

From what I understand, there are three sound systems available: Base (6 speakers), Premium (8 speakers) and Shaker Pro. The base system doesn't have an amplifier that I can find, otherwise, I would have done what you are doing and take my signal from before the amp in the kick panel.

 

[myMUSICveins]

I already had the Fix82 and originally, I just wanted to use it as a LOC.

I wanted to use the original wiring to the speakers, which is why I wanted to make sure I was using the harness to intercept and return the signal after any processing took place. If it is in the wrong place, the system will add processing to my clean signal. The harness will only work in that exact spot, so if it is wrong, I am SOL.

From what I understand, there are three sound systems available: Base (6 speakers), Premium (8 speakers) and Shaker Pro. The base system doesn't have an amplifier that I can find, otherwise, I would have done what you are doing and take my signal from before the amp in the kick panel.

Makes sense if you had it already. Let us know how it sounds when you finish

 

[trkpny]

I finished hooking everything up and it isn't working well. I have a ton of static and obvious ground loop faults. I am going to have to look at everything and make sure my grounds are good and using a common source.

One thing, however, has come to light that makes me really disappointed in Ford. For some strange reason, the amp problems have amplified the "exhaust enhancement" sound that they add to the system. It is really loud and it is apparent how fake and pervasive it is. It kicks in at about 30 MPH and is there whenever you accelerate. It is LOUD. And it isn't like they stuck a mic on the exhaust... it is computer generated. I am disillusioned with the designers, that they built such a great car and then felt the need to manipulate the experience.

It does, however, answer my earlier question. The Parrot harness comes before the ACM and the processing is added after that. It makes my Fix 82 useless as anything more than a LOC. I am thinking I should have used the conversion kit and added a full double DIN stereo. That way, I could be in complete control of the signal at all times and just bypass the ACM altogether.

 

[myMUSICveins]

I finished hooking everything up and it isn't working well. I have a ton of static and obvious ground loop faults. I am going to have to look at everything and make sure my grounds are good and using a common source.

One thing, however, has come to light that makes me really disappointed in Ford. For some strange reason, the amp problems have amplified the "exhaust enhancement" sound that they add to the system. It is really loud and it is apparent how fake and pervasive it is. It kicks in at about 30 MPH and is there whenever you accelerate. It is LOUD. And it isn't like they stuck a mic on the exhaust... it is computer generated. I am disillusioned with the designers, that they built such a great car and then felt the need to manipulate the experience.

It does, however, answer my earlier question. The Parrot harness comes before the ACM and the processing is added after that. It makes my Fix 82 useless as anything more than a LOC. I am thinking I should have used the conversion kit and added a full double DIN stereo. That way, I could be in complete control of the signal at all times and just bypass the ACM altogether.

Yea I remember reading about the engine sound over the speakers. Trust me even BMW does that and I’m not a fan either. I know there are threads possibly even this one about how to remove that, do some searching. If I recall it’s only for the 4cyl turbo mustangs.

Adding an aftermarket radio usually lacks the refinement of the factory fit and finish with the way the dash’s are designed these days. They don’t make single or double din openings that allow for a clean aftermarket radio install.

I think you can make this work with some tweaking. Just need to research how to remove the fake exhaust sound and fix the ground issue.

Good luck let us know how it works out.

 

[Retroflect]

I finished hooking everything up and it isn't working well. I have a ton of static and obvious ground loop faults. I am going to have to look at everything and make sure my grounds are good and using a common source.

One thing, however, has come to light that makes me really disappointed in Ford. For some strange reason, the amp problems have amplified the "exhaust enhancement" sound that they add to the system. It is really loud and it is apparent how fake and pervasive it is. It kicks in at about 30 MPH and is there whenever you accelerate. It is LOUD. And it isn't like they stuck a mic on the exhaust... it is computer generated. I am disillusioned with the designers, that they built such a great car and then felt the need to manipulate the experience.

It does, however, answer my earlier question. The Parrot harness comes before the ACM and the processing is added after that. It makes my Fix 82 useless as anything more than a LOC. I am thinking I should have used the conversion kit and added a full double DIN stereo. That way, I could be in complete control of the signal at all times and just bypass the ACM altogether.

Had the same thing happen to me in my ecoboost. The fake noise/noise cancelling had to be disabled via forscan. I also had to disconnect the microphone above the headliner where it meets the rear window. The headliner is held on by magnets, you can just pull down. The microphone is under where you see hat circular plastic button. You just unclip to disconnect.
The static was a whole other nightmare that I didn’t get fixed. For me it was strictly in the midrange. I ended up tuning it out best I could via the amp. I tried ground loop isolators at every connection I could and didn’t solve. I am not as tech savvy as others here so that doesn’t mean much.
In the end I just chalked it up to being an issue with the acm itself. Actually found a thread of someone with a ‘15 that had the exact same issue that year and a acm replacement fixed it. When I get home I’ll look for the bookmark if you like but it didn’t much answers, only questions like ours leading to his fix.
Wish I had more info for you but I don’t own the car anymore. (Evap core woes.)

 

[rambunctious]

I finished hooking everything up and it isn't working well. I have a ton of static and obvious ground loop faults. I am going to have to look at everything and make sure my grounds are good and using a common source.

One thing, however, has come to light that makes me really disappointed in Ford. For some strange reason, the amp problems have amplified the "exhaust enhancement" sound that they add to the system. It is really loud and it is apparent how fake and pervasive it is. It kicks in at about 30 MPH and is there whenever you accelerate. It is LOUD. And it isn't like they stuck a mic on the exhaust... it is computer generated. I am disillusioned with the designers, that they built such a great car and then felt the need to manipulate the experience.

It does, however, answer my earlier question. The Parrot harness comes before the ACM and the processing is added after that. It makes my Fix 82 useless as anything more than a LOC. I am thinking I should have used the conversion kit and added a full double DIN stereo. That way, I could be in complete control of the signal at all times and just bypass the ACM altogether.

Ford uses sound design (engine enhancement) for both the ecoboost and the Gt350. These are suplementary frequencies that are intended to blend with the audible exhast tone to create the desired sound signature. The tunes are obviously different for each.
you can disable this with a forescan change.

The base audio carries audio plus sound design through its amplified output to the speakers so forescan is the only option to eliminate the sound design.
the premium audios carry the sound design separe from the audio, so those sound design leads can be ignored whe nusing a replacement amp and taking the signal from the head unit. They are blended after the factory amp if a loc is used on the factory amp output.

the micorphone (in the case of the ecoboost) is used in a separate scenario for active noise cancellation. this is on top of sound design. this is needed as the 4 cyinder has frequencies that resonate the cabin at low rpm. when a sub is added, it amplifies both the sound design and anc signals, they are no longer calibrated properly (ecoboost).
anc signal is then larger than the noise it is trying to cancel and you then hear the result. ANC can also be eliminated in the ecoboost with forescan.

when either is amplified due to an aftermarket amp or sub, you are hearing those suplemental frequencies amplified above the noise floor (exhaust tone from engine) and it sounds fake because they are no longer blending as designed into the total signature.

There should not be a mic in the Gt350 for ANC as this does not have anc (to my knowledge). sound design should be feed forward and not require a mic for any feedback in the GT350.

Ramb

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