Stereo upgrades

[dj_rob]

Hello, I need help installing some aftermarket speakers in my mustang gt 16 premium. It's the one with 9 speakers without the shaker system. I already had one Rockford p2 10 in the back that I got installed at the shop. I replaced this sub last week with a Rockford p3 10 but I figure I need a little more bass to wake the neighbors lol. I have p3-2x10 coming tomorrow that I will replace and send back my p3 10. I will be pairing that subwoofer with a Rockford prime 1200. The part I need help with is replacing the door speakers and the speakers in the rear. This is the list of stuff I want to install tomorrow.
Rockford p165s1 6.5 component speakers
Rockford p132 3.5 coaxial speakers
Rockford p1650 speakers for the rear
Rockford pb300x4 300 watts 4 channel amplifier

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[Gronk]

I did a similar installation recently with JBL speakers and a JL AUdio 6- Channel amp. I started out replacing all my speakers then deciding to add a sub so I got a RF Prime R1x12.

The problem you will run into is how to power all the front speakers. I've got JBL GTO628's in front which are two-way. I installed JBL GTO329's which are 3.5" two-way midrange also. I was powering these using four channels but was getting some high pitched engine whine based on RPM's from the mids.

Also the factory tweeters (8 ohm) in A-pillars are wired in parallel with the mids so this creates an impedance problem. I have JBL GTO 638's in rear deck which are 3-way coaxials, they are sounding good using the line level signals from the factory amp input connector.

I have disconnected the front mid and tweeters and wired in the sub on the last two channels bridged at 200W RMS and 4-ohms and sounds much better having the sub.
The front speakers 628's sound pretty damn good by themselves for now.

The only way I see having all three speakers up front is to have components with crossovers which is a lot more work. I would install the main fronts if they are 2-way and get the rears and sub working then decide if you still want mids and tweeters. You want to retain the factory front and rear line level signals to have balance and fader controls which helps in tuning it all up.

 

[Gronk]

After looking at the specs for the speakers you listed looks like all are 4- ohm with integrated crossovers so if the amp is 2-ohm stable you can parallel the fronts and use the HP filter in the amp to fine tune. Rears should be straight setup. You will have to disconnect the stock tweeters since they are 8 ohms, assuming you use the factory wiring.

My JBL's are 2-ohm (6.5") and 3-ohm (3.5") so I can't run in parallel.

 

[dj_rob]

My amp is 4 ohm. Can I replace the factory amp in the driver door with my Rockford amp for the install? I'll have everything by Friday so I'll be working on the mod all Friday. Tomorrow I'm going to install my rtr led light kit and my new amp and subwoofer

 

[Gronk]

My amp is 4 ohm. Can I replace the factory amp in the driver door with my Rockford amp for the install? I'll have everything by Friday so I'll be working on the mod all Friday. Tomorrow I'm going to install my rtr led light kit and my new amp and subwoofer

Be aware that the factory amp does sound processing to create the mid-range & tweeter signals, as well as the center channel on the dash. If you go with an external amp you will only have front and rear (L&R) line level signals to work with, that's why i suggested paralleling the fronts and mids if you had a 2-ophm stable amp. If your amp is rated for 4 ohms, this won't be an option.

 

[dj_rob]

What amp would you recommend for my install and do I need to purchase an amp Kit if I replace the factory amp or can I use the factory amp wires

 

[dj_rob]

The Rockford p132 3.5 speaker did not fit so I'll be sending those back. What 3.5 speakers do you recommend to go with my install. I just have to install the amp to power these speakers today. Btw my amp for my sub started having problems today and it might be due to the fact that I have all these new speakers running without a amp to power these so I figure one I get that up and running I should be good. I disable the factory tweeter so I won't be using those since the 6.5 component speakers come with tweeters. How do I go about installing the amp to power these speakers. This my first time dealing with this kind of work

 

[Gronk]

The Rockford p132 3.5 speaker did not fit so I'll be sending those back. What 3.5 speakers do you recommend to go with my install. I just have to install the amp to power these speakers today. Btw my amp for my sub started having problems today and it might be due to the fact that I have all these new speakers running without a amp to power these so I figure one I get that up and running I should be good. I disable the factory tweeter so I won't be using those since the 6.5 component speakers come with tweeters. How do I go about installing the amp to power these speakers. This my first time dealing with this kind of work

If you want to run aftermarket speakers and amp in all the factory locations up front you will have to go with a full component system using crossovers, otherwise you can use two- or three-way speakers in the woofer position and disconnect the factory mids and tweeters. You will still have a very good sounding system with a better quality amp and just two or three ways up front, since the amp will have more power for them. Definitely you will want a sub for fuller bass.

You can install the amp in trunk and run power to battery using a 4AWG kit, preferably down the passenger side and run your speaker wires either directly to the speakers with all new wires or use speed wire to interface with the factory wires at the factory amp connections near the driver kick panel area, use Molex connectors to connect to these factory wires, the schematics and info is in the sticky main threads.

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