Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

smdandb2

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I figured this information is kind of scattered everywhere, so I am trying to condense it all into one place to help everyone out.

If there is information that needs to be edited or added, let me know. Hopefully I will be able to edit this later to keep it up to date.

Speaker Info
Base Model (6 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models 200A/400A (9 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models w/ Shaker Audio 201A/401A (12 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" Coax (Rear Deck)
Subwoofer

Speaker Pictures (Premium Shaker Shown) - Thank you stoli!!
1-X3.jpg

2-X3.jpg

3-X2.jpg


Amplifier Information
Base cars do not have an amplifier, all speakers are powered directly from the head unit.

Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.

The subwoofer amplifier is located on the subwoofer box itself.

Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.

Base radio (only shows front speakers):
4.png


Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier
5.png


Amplifier to Speakers
6.png


Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.

12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.
 
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BubbaMc

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This is great, thanks for compiling everything.

What are the noise cancellation signals for?
 
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smdandb2

smdandb2

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The Ecoboost has active noise cancelling, probably because they were afraid people would hate the 4cyl sound. It has a microphone in the headliner that detects the engine noises and tries reducing them in cabin with some sorcery.

It's assumed they do nothing on the GT cars.
 

Noobtastic14

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I may have missed it because the page is loading funny at work, but what coils are in the Premium sub? I'd like to do a simple swap of the subwoofer itself and matching coils would allow for a direct replacement.
-Drew
 

Reaper

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I responded to a different original post but the Metra 72-5602 harness kit seems to be a good alternative (after light modifications) to cutting the stock 6.5" speaker connectors for now. It doesn't seem like the usual suppliers have plans to release plug & play kits any time soon.

I found a seller on eBay that sells the Metra 72-5602 harness kits for $6.95 with free shipping it seems. Two kits were ordered (x4 in total) from the seller in which they are also available on their main site for those of you who do not use eBay.

$14 seems like a reasonable price to be able to leave the stock parts modular.
 

stoli

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Nice work.
 

Bryman

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Excellent, thanks for taking the initiative.
 

MotorJoe

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Great info, thanks!

And everyone please update with all relevant information.

Admin: please make this a STICKY.
 

BubbaMc

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It certainly needs to be a sticky.

This is essential information for any PROPER amplifier and speaker upgrade to the factory system.
 

EcoBOSS

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Subwoofer:
Amp: YanFeng Visteon S69GA (From Shaker Mustang, Fusion, F150 and Lincoln MKS) P/N: BA1T-18C808-AA (50Wx2?).
Speaker: 8 in. PAPER cone with foam surround model with 2 voicecoils (L, R) and the amp connection pinout is to follow. The sub has 6 T20 screws on the front that hold the grille to the case (through the SW flange) and one 8mm bolt that goes through the back of the case to the base of the Subwoofer. The speaker is only 4 in. deep and finding a replacement may be difficult. A Polk Audio db840dvc 8-inch dual voice coil subwoofer looks like a good match.

I would LOVE to know if this amp is 2ohm stable and bridgeable, a 100W 2Ohm setup would be awesome - HIGHLY doubtful though.

IMAG4208.jpg


Installed

IMAG4209.jpg


Cover

IMAG4211.jpg


Mounting area - One Torx bolt, 2 - 15mm bolts under the cover (2 T-20 screws)

IMAG4213.jpg


Bottom of unit showing Amp input connector

IMAG4214.jpg


Front, grille removed

IMAG4215.jpg


Back with 8mm SW mounting bolt shown

IMAG4220.jpg


4 wires (L, R) to SW - ONLY marking is [CHINA] - Assuming 2 Channel 100W (50w+50w) 4 Ohm based on specs of the system overall.

IMAG4221.jpg


Interior of SW cabinet with NO port, no seal between speaker and box, no batting material and the mounting post in the center; no doubt to control the vibrations from the back flexing.
 
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EcoBOSS

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The BIGGEST weakness I see is the TINY gauge power cable - maybe 20ga? [will check and post]

Questions:
Is this a full range input (pass-thru) from the front map?
Does the amp do any Low Frequency Crossover?
 

MX5Racer

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So do the convertibles have the same rear speakers, only mounted in the side panels?
 

RevvdMedia

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The BIGGEST weakness I see is the TINY gauge power cable - maybe 20ga? [will check and post]

Questions:
Is this a full range input (pass-thru) from the front map?
Does the amp do any Low Frequency Crossover?
The power wires for the main speaker amp are tiny, the same diameter as the line level in wires. They are substantially smaller than the 18AWG wires I spliced in when adding the EQ. I can't say for sure, but I honestly think the power wires are 22 or 24AWG, and there are 2 of them (2 power, 2 ground).

No idea how this system puts out "390 watts" with those tiny wires, if the subwoofer is 100 watts as shown in posts above. 290 watts (145rms?) through 2x 22 gauge? I don't think so. I can't see how that is safe.

Based on an ampacity chart, 20 gauge (let's pretend 2x 22 gauge = 20...it's actually less) should only handle 11 amps as chassis wiring. 11amps x 13.8 volts = 151.8 watts.

I dunno, I'm not an electrical engineer.
 

NewTekBuzz

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I have the premium audio w/o shaker, would I have wiring in place for the shaker sub to just drop in?
Thanks for the help, great write up
 
 
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