SCCA CAM-C Thread

[mavisky]

I would personally not ditch the Steeda bits just yet, there isn't much difference between them and BMR IMO, pick the color you like basically.

Also @WItoTX - even more impressive you did on Falkens in what is like a pretty cold event.

I would agree with this. The parts are not exactly rocket science and a steel brace or an aluminum insert fill is not going to differ in results between the two really.

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[NightmareMoon]

Having never run a pro-solo event, do they use any water in the burnout box like a drag strip?

Are you using the car's line-lock mode to do the burnout?

I've launched my car plenty hard on numerous occasions and even without the full "stop the hop" kit I've never been able to trigger wheel hop to my knowledge.

Yeah there's not much time to be waiting for progress bars to do the line lock in that box. You've got like 10-15 seconds to burnout AND get staged and ready.

 

[NightmareMoon]

@WItoTX - FWIW, I almost never get any wheel hop, but I've definitely had it at Beeville before.

Something about that concrete surface.

 

[WItoTX]

@WItoTX - FWIW, I almost never get any wheel hop, but I've definitely had it at Beeville before.

Something about that concrete surface.

Well that does make me feel a little better. I've been looking at different bushing options and debating if I could knock it out before the next event.

Are you going to make it to the Tour event next month in Beeville?

 

[CobaltFilly]

Thank you!

The morning session was cold, so I did a burnout to heat the rears up. No issues. For the afternoon session, the air was still cold, but the pavement heated up pretty good under the sun. I think there was a lot more grip in the burnout box, and my tires were not as cold. My tire pressure guy said I had a wild wheel hop, but it's odd because in the car, I felt nothing unexpected, and reviewing video, there is no shake in the camera.

The issue was forscan showed an erratic left rear wheel speed sensor code, consistent with wheel hop. I tried restarting the car in between runs, and no luck, the car wouldn't clear the code. I was able to get TC to turn off on my last run, and made up a second on that run, with the service advance trak, ABS, and steering fault codes flashing at me. What is annoying, in post tech jail, the car cleared the code, and everything was working again. I think the car needed at least 30 seconds to reset itself.

If this was a tour event, I could have quickly scanned and cleared codes and been fine. But the Solo format...just gotta make it work.

Steeda's kit doesn't "stop the hop" during a standard burnout, I need something that will. I'm confident I had 1st place but for losing out on the best session of the weekend due to the wheel hop. I am very thankful more stuff didn't break.

This is an interesting read! I am curious if you do more testing or try something else (if there IS anything else) since we have the handling stop the hop kit on our build list. Seeing as we are SEVERELY underpowered compared to your beauty, I wonder if that will be a difference and our hop will just not occur at all even once we go procharged. The more information the better for us, since we are new to the S550 platform (and mustangs in general!).

We come from the humble "Lego Building Blocks" car platform - Honda.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Well that does make me feel a little better. I've been looking at different bushing options and debating if I could knock it out before the next event.

Are you going to make it to the Tour event next month in Beeville?

I’m taking most of the year off from touring while I build back a bigger bucket of bucks to blow on boondocking in beeville.

Got some other goals for the year, so just going to hit the local club events and maybe buy one less set of 315 tires.

 

[NightmareMoon]

This is an interesting read! I am curious if you do more testing or try something else (if there IS anything else) since we have the handling stop the hop kit on our build list. Seeing as we are SEVERELY underpowered compared to your beauty, I wonder if that will be a difference and our hop will just not occur at all even once we go procharged. The more information the better for us, since we are new to the S550 platform (and mustangs in general!).

We come from the humble "Lego Building Blocks" car platform - Honda.

Welcome welcome.

The wheel hop he’s talking about is when feathering a launch at the edge of traction in first gear, so a bit more or less power won’t help. We all launch with about the same force, even if that means the clutch takes some abuse. Right after that the power comes into the equation.

Dont worry too much about wheel hop.

 

[NightmareMoon]

@WItoTX do you have the big lower control arm bearing swap?

 

[CobaltFilly]

Welcome welcome.

The wheel hop he’s talking about is when feathering a launch at the edge of traction in first gear, so a bit more or less power won’t help. We all launch with about the same force, even if that means the clutch takes some abuse. Right after that the power comes into the equation.

Dont worry too much about wheel hop.

You always make things so clear. Refreshing as always my friend. Much appreciated.

 

[WItoTX]

@WItoTX do you have the big lower control arm bearing swap?

Yeah that is done. IMO, one of the best upgrades for the car actually.

I get the taking a year off...it's crossed my mind more than once for 2025 so I can get my shop built.

 

[WItoTX]

This is an interesting read! I am curious if you do more testing or try something else (if there IS anything else) since we have the handling stop the hop kit on our build list. Seeing as we are SEVERELY underpowered compared to your beauty, I wonder if that will be a difference and our hop will just not occur at all even once we go procharged. The more information the better for us, since we are new to the S550 platform (and mustangs in general!).

We come from the humble "Lego Building Blocks" car platform - Honda.

I am just spending time reading other threads here and on TMO at the moment that discuss wheel hop.

My issue is in the burnout box. 5,000 RPMs and dumping the clutch should be more than enough to keep the wheels from hopping. My only thought at the moment is maybe I am just not letting the wheels spin long enough.

Off the line and into 2nd there is no wheel hop. Launch around 2500 RPMs. Losing a tenth or two in the 60' is minor compared to losing a half second overdriving a corner. I can probably just not do a burnout and let the tires heat up naturally like the fronts. But I hate not having the option.

 

[TeeLew]

@WItoTX - FWIW, I almost never get any wheel hop, but I've definitely had it at Beeville before.

Something about that concrete surface.

A smooth concrete surface is kind of a worst-case scenario. I think poly subframe bushings and the braces help, but it does seem to be inherent in the geometry to some extent.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Welp, she is officially a racecar.

 

[CobaltFilly]

@NightmareMoon @mavisky @WltoTX Hello my friends, I secured a sweet deal on 19x11 SVEs that I absolutely could not pass up (i.e. nearly free, a couple days worth of beer money). I don't have perfect info on fitment, but I believe I will need to swap my front hub bolts to 3" and run a 25mm spacer on the *front only* to clear these monsters running 285 or 295s.
I am considering Apex Wheels Spacers (25mm) for quality purposes, what are your thoughts/suggestions if any please! Am I correct in thinking I need new hub bolts/spacers? Suggestion on good sets of lug nuts, or can I reuse OEM?
Super excited!

 

[kz]

You need new long studs and at least 25 mm spacer - Apex or Optimum Performance (who also sells studs and nuts).

Why not go to 305 if you have 11" wheel (short of some gearing considerations) ?

Lug nuts - open ended Ford Performance ones work just fine. In fact I have unused set of SVE 19x11" in the basement I am considering throwing 305 71RS on.

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