Rear Shock Mount Repair

[dannyboy3461]

So I had my rear shock bolts pull out of the mounting point on the frame/body area. I’ve read up and see the valid repair is to weld the BMR Shock mounts (new version) in place and call it a day. I was about to order them when I read that it works with all shocks that use M10-1.5 nuts. Does anyone know if the Bilstein B6 use that nut? I have looked at all the specs I can find only and don’t see a listing of the size anywhere. If I have to replace the shocks I guess I have to replace the shocks but would like to keep these as they are brand new.

my temporary fix is nothing to be admired….

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[Cobra Jet]

Unfortunately, I don’t have the answer but if this is an issue for earlier S550’s, it should be reported to the NHTSA for a potential recall due to safety concerns.

 

[ice445]

Can you explain how they pulled out? Did this happen during install, or were you driving down the road and it broke off? Did you follow the torque spec on install?

I'm just curious since usually you only see this with a generic coilover that mounts to that location since it was never designed to support the weight of the vehicle.

 

[WD Pro]

@dannyboy3461

Have a read from this link to the end of the thread : https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-mounts-sm760-design-finalized.113927/page-31

WD

 

[StangTime]

OP says in another thread he was running stock mounts with Pedders Coil overs. It's a divorced setup in the rear.
The only way I can see this happening is if the shocks were smacking the bump stops or reaching the end of their travel. Springs too low or shock mount bolts were not torqued to spec. Repeated hits fatigue the metal to the point that it fractures. How many inches of drop were you running on? How does the other side look?

 

[ice445]

OP says in another thread he was running stock mounts with Pedders Coil overs. It's a divorced setup in the rear.
The only way I can see this happening is the if the shocks were smacking the bump stops or reaching the end of their travel. Springs too low or shock mount bolts were not torqued to spec. Repeated hits fatigue the metal to to point that it fractures. How many inches of drop were you running on? How does the other side look?

That does seem to be the case, even a divorced setup can cause this if the shock is stiff and bottoms out before the full extent of suspension travel. Was some interesting reading. Still sucks though.

 

[dannyboy3461]

My car was stock shock and stock mounts. I did have steeda mounts on for a short time but the top bearing went out and I replaced them. The car does have 178k miles on it lowered with some 20” wheels after having the stock PP1 wheels on for about 6k miles. I have always had rear hubs burn out on me but not sure that is related. Just trying to find a good solid fix now. The BMR setup seems like the best option just need to know if it fits my shocks. And that’s a tall ask it seems.

 

[StangTime]

My car was stock shock and stock mounts. I did have steeda mounts on for a short time but the top bearing went out and I replaced them. The car does have 178k miles on it lowered with some 20” wheels after having the stock PP1 wheels on for about 6k miles. I have always had rear hubs burn out on me but not sure that is related. Just trying to find a good solid fix now. The BMR setup seems like the best option just need to know if it fits my shocks. And that’s a tall ask it seems.

When running the stock dampers and mounts, did you have lowering springs on?

 

[dannyboy3461]

Yep. H&R SuperSport. Lowest drop I could find, 1.7 I think was the rear drop.

 

[StangTime]

Yep. H&R SuperSport. Lowest drop I could find, 1.7 I think was the rear drop.

Did you cut the bump stops inside the dampers?

 

[dannyboy3461]

I did. I think they had me cut the lower part off

 

[StangTime]

I did. I think they had me cut the lower part off

That's correct.
If the bump stops were not cut or the bolts not torqued to 66ft lbs then this sort of damage can occur. I hope you can get it fixed.

 

[Oakley]

looks like somebody didn't get their preload right, went too low, or had bump stops too tall.

 

[dannyboy3461]

Definitely low. Bump stops were cut as recommended. Hoping welding in the BMR plates helps but need to know if they will work with Bilstein shocks

 

[NGOT8R]

This thread is very concerning to me. I will be replacing my factory shocks with Viking inverted drag shocks soon. They will eliminate the factory aluminum upper mount thst bolts to the body and use a T-bar in it’s place.

I wonder if these can be bolted on and then welded in place for reinforcement to the body? Maybe even add the shock brace in the trunk?

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