Rear Upper Shock Mounts

Strokerswild

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jacknifetoaswan

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Can you elaborate on the noise yours was making?

I'm chasing my tail trying to find an incredibly irritating rattle/clunk coming from the driver's rear side, and it's either something with the decklid or maybe one of my Steeda shock mounts. I've adjusted about everything I possibly can on the decklid and have it fitting and latching better than ever, but the noise persists.....
It sounds like a bad endlink, but it’s side dependent as opposed to the endlink which knocks regardless of what wheel goes over the bump.
Did it sound like a "click click click" when taking off from a stop at low speeds? I've got a noise that I've been trying to chase for some time, and have been working with Steeda to resolve. I originally thought it was the driver's halfshaft (sounded like a bad CV), but replaced those with GT350 units. No joy. Axle nut is properly tightened and red Locktited. Disconnected endlinks from sway bar to isolate that. Replaced vertical links with Steeda poly units. No joy. I've though it could be the upper strut mount, but Steeda didn't think that was likely. I did notice the sound quite a bit when driving over a grassy field this weekend, so the strut would have been in constant compression/rebound at low speeds.

JR
 

Strokerswild

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Did it sound like a "click click click" when taking off from a stop at low speeds? I've got a noise that I've been trying to chase for some time, and have been working with Steeda to resolve. I originally thought it was the driver's halfshaft (sounded like a bad CV), but replaced those with GT350 units. No joy. Axle nut is properly tightened and red Locktited. Disconnected endlinks from sway bar to isolate that. Replaced vertical links with Steeda poly units. No joy. I've though it could be the upper strut mount, but Steeda didn't think that was likely. I did notice the sound quite a bit when driving over a grassy field this weekend, so the strut would have been in constant compression/rebound at low speeds.

JR
Not a click, more of a light clunk. It's not like a bad CV joint. It was my driver side shock mount, there was a slight amount of play between the top nut and the spherical bearing.

Tim and Co. at Steeda set me up with the most recent upgraded hardware (thanks, guys!), which I'll install this winter when the car is hibernating. For right now I just tightened up the old top nuts and the car is noise free.
 

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For right now I just tightened up the old top nuts and the car is noise free.
Edit, oops this thread was about the rear shock mounts, not the front...

I did this to mine this morning - to 65ft/lb 70 on the other. No change. The metalic 'popping/jangle' is bloody LOUD and very annoying. I think it is coming from underneath - the K-brace or something.

Hey @SteedaTech you guys need a better solution then a 6mm hex key to hold that shaft while trying to put 70ft/lbs on that nut. How about some 12mm flats? My key tore a bit of metal out of the one hex hole. I need to find a long-handled 6mm box to use as lever arm. I had an offset 12-point made of Chinese bubble-gum and not surprisingly it rounded the points right off. Oh and a jamb nut to keep the main one from backing off. Some wicking green locktite or perhaps med-strength blue wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
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strengthrehab

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I contacted BMR about my issue...they offered to warranty the part with the new design, I just had to send the old set back and they would send me the new ones when available.

3 weeks later--nothing. I'm done. Looks like I'll stick with stock right now.

OTOH, I had an event this past weekend and went back to inspect the welds on the repair and all was good. Let's hope it stays that way.
 

TriYellowYote

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Did it sound like a "click click click" when taking off from a stop at low speeds? I've got a noise that I've been trying to chase for some time, and have been working with Steeda to resolve. I originally thought it was the driver's halfshaft (sounded like a bad CV), but replaced those with GT350 units. No joy. Axle nut is properly tightened and red Locktited. Disconnected endlinks from sway bar to isolate that. Replaced vertical links with Steeda poly units. No joy. I've though it could be the upper strut mount, but Steeda didn't think that was likely. I did notice the sound quite a bit when driving over a grassy field this weekend, so the strut would have been in constant compression/rebound at low speeds.

JR
Have you checked your wheel bearings? I had a bad driver side bearing that would make a "click click click" sound when taking off from a stop.
 

jacknifetoaswan

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Have you checked your wheel bearings? I had a bad driver side bearing that would make a "click click click" sound when taking off from a stop.
Replaced both of them when I was doing the axles.

JR
 

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I contacted BMR about my issue...they offered to warranty the part with the new design, I just had to send the old set back and they would send me the new ones when available.

3 weeks later--nothing. I'm done. Looks like I'll stick with stock right now.

OTOH, I had an event this past weekend and went back to inspect the welds on the repair and all was good. Let's hope it stays that way.
That's kind of disappointing, Ken.
 

strengthrehab

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That's kind of disappointing, Ken.
Yeah, I'm not happy to say the least. I've contacted the Mustang Contact person a few times without response other than "I'll contact my warranty person."

I know they are busy, but c'mon. Long gone are the days of the personal customer service. When a company gets too big, this happens.
 

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Not true for everything ;)
 

jacknifetoaswan

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There's a least a few threads on this topic by now, and all of them look pretty much the same.

Yes Ford's design sucks, but after going through like 5 different combinations of shock and shock mount (OE, Steeda, BMR v1, BMR plus rivnuts, BMR v2) I went back to the OEM mounts and maybe my ass isn't as sensitive, but driving them back to back I really didn't notice a difference. The "PP bounce" is real, but went away completely just changing the dampers.

Apparently there's a BMR v3 that adds a reaction arm which bears between the "humps" on the sheetmetal, to counteract the moment on the mount. That's one super-duty strength bandaid, but it's still not a great solution.

I think most would be much better served by putting the money you would have spent on aftermarket upper shock mounts, into better shocks. Specifically Bilsteins.
 

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There's a least a few threads on this topic by now, and all of them look pretty much the same.

Yes Ford's design sucks, but after going through like 5 different combinations of shock and shock mount (OE, Steeda, BMR v1, BMR plus rivnuts, BMR v2) I went back to the OEM mounts and maybe my ass isn't as sensitive, but driving them back to back I really didn't notice a difference. The "PP bounce" is real, but went away completely just changing the dampers.

Apparently there's a BMR v3 that adds a reaction arm which bears between the "humps" on the sheetmetal, to counteract the moment on the mount. That's one super-duty strength bandaid, but it's still not a great solution.

I think most would be much better served by putting the money you would have spent on aftermarket upper shock mounts, into better shocks. Specifically Bilsteins.
Some aftermarket shocks have the bounce too. When I had Steeda's non-adjustable shocks I had a significant oscillation on highways that was completely eliminated with their shock mounts.
 

Excelerater

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as anyone broken stock mounts on a daily ?
I added some adjustable shocks that are really tight ,no issues but who wants trouble
 
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