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Steeda Billet rear shock mounts Necessary?

Driv3n to Dr1ve

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So I’ve kinda settled on the non-adjustable steeda shocks+struts +camber plates+progressive springs. I track my GT maybe 3-4times per year and daily drive it.
i’ve seen a few posts noting steeda billet shock mount failures, so I’d like to know if my stock mounts are sufficient for non-adjustable shocks.
If anyone with @SteedaTech could chime in, have improvements been made to the billet shock mounts?
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GregO

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i’ve seen a few posts noting steeda billet shock mount failures,
I’m not Steeda Tech but, I’ve got 60K miles of year round Midwest crappy roads on my Steeda Billet mounts and absolutely zero issues with Steeda Ultralite linear springs and Ford Performance Struts
There’s other option now but Steeda was the first to market.
I’d purchase the Steeda mounts again.
Your stock mounts are fine but there is a certain amount of deflection built into the vulcanized shaft mounting area.
 
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Driv3n to Dr1ve

Driv3n to Dr1ve

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I’m not Steeda Tech but, I’ve got 60K miles of year round Midwest crappy roads on my Steeda Billet mounts and absolutely zero issues with Steeda Ultralite linear springs and Ford Performance Struts
There’s other option now but Steeda was the first to market.
I’d purchase the Steeda mounts again.
Your stock mounts are fine but there is a certain amount of deflection built into the vulcanized shaft mounting area.
That’s great to hear, thanks! I’ll probably skip the shock mounts.
 

MrBD1348

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Skip the camber plates as well, you don’t need them.
did you do camber bolts instead? Or just the ford strut to knuckle bolts? I got the same shocks and struts but bmr sp083 springs. I have camber bolts in place right now while the springs settle
 

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GregO

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did you do camber bolts instead? Or just the ford strut to knuckle bolts? I got the same shocks and struts but bmr sp083 springs. I have camber bolts in place right now while the springs settle
OEM Ford strut mounting plates and no need for camber bolts either.
We hit -1.5° / -1.6° camber with all OEM hardware and stock strut through hole diameter.
 
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tj@steeda

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So I’ve kinda settled on the non-adjustable steeda shocks+struts +camber plates+progressive springs. I track my GT maybe 3-4times per year and daily drive it.
i’ve seen a few posts noting steeda billet shock mount failures, so I’d like to know if my stock mounts are sufficient for non-adjustable shocks.
If anyone with @SteedaTech could chime in, have improvements been made to the billet shock mounts?
It's important to note that a limited number of incidents have occurred due to the extreme lowering of cars, causing excessive stress on the rear shock mounts, regardless of whether a Steeda mount is used or not.

These mounts are commonly known as "weak" points on these vehicles. However, for peace of mind, we have sold thousands of these units and they have proven to hold up exceptionally well when properly installed.

Let me know if you have any other concerns - you can reach me at tim @ steeda .com

Best Regards,

TJ
 
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Driv3n to Dr1ve

Driv3n to Dr1ve

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It's important to note that a limited number of incidents have occurred due to the extreme lowering of cars, causing excessive stress on the rear shock mounts, regardless of whether a Steeda mount is used or not.

These mounts are commonly known as "weak" points on these vehicles. However, for peace of mind, we have sold thousands of these units and they have proven to hold up exceptionally well when properly installed.

Let me know if you have any other concerns - you can reach me at tim @ steeda .com

Best Regards,

TJ
That’s great clarification, thanks!
 

GregO

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He said he daily drives the car and tracks maybe 3-4 times a year……
Camber plates or bolts are not needed to hit the street performance alignment angle I listed.
 

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RagmopInKona

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Ok, insert stupid question here.
I come from the land of unequal a- arms , the S550 is the first Strut based car I will track and push. What do these plates do.
I am Assuming make the camber easy to adjust. Do they have markings or do you add those yourself, So at track you can set it, and when back street driving you can put it back.

Sorry if this seems stupid, but all my past track cars have been A -arm set up inthe nose and 3 link long arms in back.
 

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Camber plates or bolts are not needed to hit the street performance alignment angle I listed.
indeed.

But -1.5 hardly qualifies as a 'performance' alignment. IMO the minimum should be -1.8F if not into the low 2's. Rear about 0.5 less than front.
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