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Billet rear shock mounts - advantages?

terryz

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I think this is really one of those mods that improve everything with the only downside being cost.
Unlike springs, bushings etc, you always need to trade some comfort for performance. The shock mounts improve both ride and handling.
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s550v6

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So I just installed these mounts in about 45 minutes total just with jackstands in my driveway. No need to remove the entire shock from the LCA and everything went on just fine. My question is that there is a small gap between the two studs that protrude from the body of the car and the billet mount itself, is this normal? One side seems to have a bit more gap than the other, only by a few mm though.

One more question lol, what is the recommended torque value for the top nuts that tighten the mount to the shock? It seems to be very hard to get these tight since the rod on the shock continues to spin when you tighten the nut on top.

Any advice on any of these small issues would be great! Otherwise, these mounts are fricken awesome and you can feel the difference in rear-end "bounce" immediately!
[MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] any advice?
 

BmacIL

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So I just installed these mounts in about 45 minutes total just with jackstands in my driveway. No need to remove the entire shock from the LCA and everything went on just fine. My question is that there is a small gap between the two studs that protrude from the body of the car and the billet mount itself, is this normal? One side seems to have a bit more gap than the other, only by a few mm though.

One more question lol, what is the recommended torque value for the top nuts that tighten the mount to the shock? It seems to be very hard to get these tight since the rod on the shock continues to spin when you tighten the nut on top.

Any advice on any of these small issues would be great! Otherwise, these mounts are fricken awesome and you can feel the difference in rear-end "bounce" immediately!
[MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] any advice?
66 ft-lbs. The gap is normal. Those are just alignment pins for assembly in the plant.

Torque specs:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47084

Glad you're feeling the benefits! Big improvement.
 

SteedaTech

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So I just installed these mounts in about 45 minutes total just with jackstands in my driveway. No need to remove the entire shock from the LCA and everything went on just fine. My question is that there is a small gap between the two studs that protrude from the body of the car and the billet mount itself, is this normal? One side seems to have a bit more gap than the other, only by a few mm though.

One more question lol, what is the recommended torque value for the top nuts that tighten the mount to the shock? It seems to be very hard to get these tight since the rod on the shock continues to spin when you tighten the nut on top.

Any advice on any of these small issues would be great! Otherwise, these mounts are fricken awesome and you can feel the difference in rear-end "bounce" immediately!
@tj@steeda and @SteedaTech any advice?
Gap between two studs normal.

Top nut torque 22 ft/lbs

Billet mount to chassis 66 ft/lbs

Shock to trailing arm 35 ft/lbs

Thank you,

Mike D
 

jbailer

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The way to tighten them without the shock rod spinning is to hold the top of the shock rod with a wrench then tighten down the shock rod nut. Up until now I'd always just winged the 22 lb ft because I didn't know how you'd get a torque wrench on there if you have a wrench on the end. I've learned here that you use a strut socket that half of the socket is open so you can get the wrench in there or you use a crowsfoot wrench, I have one of those coming in on Tuesday so I can do it correctly now.
 

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Gibbo205

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Gap between two studs normal.

Top nut torque 22 ft/lbs

Billet mount to chassis 66 ft/lbs

Shock to trailing arm 35 ft/lbs

Thank you,

Mike D

When I did my install, I needed a jack under the LCA to push the damper up to get the holes to line up.

I put the bolts in and then did a little more on the jack so the top mounts were up against the studs just like the stock items were. Was this wrong to do?
 

jbailer

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When I did my install, I needed a jack under the LCA to push the damper up to get the holes to line up.

I put the bolts in and then did a little more on the jack so the top mounts were up against the studs just like the stock items were. Was this wrong to do?
It's not really right or wrong, the alternative is you can easily just compress the shock with your hand a little so you can get the holes to line up.

Those little studs are unimportant. They are just an install aid. The mounts don't need to go up against them, they aren't holding anything.
 

Gibbo205

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It's not really right or wrong, the alternative is you can easily just compress the shock with your hand a little so you can get the holes to line up.

Those little studs are unimportant. They are just an install aid. The mounts don't need to go up against them, they aren't holding anything.

I was just replicating how the stock items were installed, seemed the logical thing to do. :D
 

TunaFish15

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Made from billet 6061 aluminum, these mounts are designed to replace the weak cast factory units...

TJ
Amen on the billet, beautiful works of art. Too bad they're hidden from view when driving :(
IMG_0432.jpg
 

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jbailer

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Ha! Sad thing is, I'm pretty sure someone is considering this at the moment.
Hmmm lets see.... my sawzall... maybe some acrylic... hmmmm :headbang::headbang::headbang:
 

SYK

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Print a picture of the shock mount and tape onto the fender
 

BmacIL

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Lexman

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I saw online mention of a version for wider tires. If you have stock or PP shocks but may go with wider than factory tire width, which would you choose?
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