High mileage Voodoo engine >100k

[dpAtlanta]

Because I follow the cold start procedures by limiting my RPMs until the oil reaches hundred 180°, I think I am beyond the point of worrying about my engine failing.

I have heard others indicating keeping rpm's low until adequate temperature is reached.
I decided to find the reference... I located it in the GT350 Owners Supplement:

" Redline limited to 8000 RPM until the engine oil temperature exceeds 190°F (88°C). "

Reading this literally, you are allowed to take it all the way to 8000 rpm's when cold, then to redline after 190°F is reached.
I shift between 3500 - 4000 rpm's whether is cold, or at temperature.

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[Kobi Addiction]

I have heard others indicating keeping rpm's low until adequate temperature is reached.
I decided to find the reference... I located it in the GT350 Owners Supplement:

" Redline limited to 8000 RPM until the engine oil temperature exceeds 190°F (88°C). "

Reading this literally, you are allowed to take it all the way to 8000 rpm's when cold, then to redline after 190°F is reached.
I shift between 3500 - 4000 rpm's whether is cold, or at temperature.

My rule of thumb was based off of Drag Mode, which won’t allow you to select until you reach 190°F. I don’t select drag mode, but used that temp for my shift rule. So I stay idled on a cold start until 130°F, I go about my way and keep shifts below 3000 rpm until I reach 190°F. Then it’s game time. I’ve been doing this since day 1 and I’m about to crack 70k, I’m sure it’s contributed.

 

[dpAtlanta]

My rule of thumb was based off of Drag Mode, which won’t allow you to select until you reach 190°F. I don’t select drag mode, but used that temp for my shift rule. So I stay idled on a cold start until 130°F, I go about my way and keep shifts below 3000 rpm until I reach 190°F. Then it’s game time. I’ve been doing this since day 1 and I’m about to crack 70k, I’m sure it’s contributed.

Sounds like solid advice supported by almost 70,000 reasons to follow your technique.

 

[stanglife]

Warm up is good. Also remember pistons are small when cold and these engines tend to have piston slap at very light throttle. The load of applying slightly more throttle through each gear seems to stop the audible indication of piston slap (maybe it doesn't slap due to the added load but not sure) - but it does increase cylinder pressure and piston temp..My thinking is that the earlier you can get some temperature in the piston, the less time the engine spends slapping. I know that sounds odd.

I know what to listen for and I cant really detect it in my 20 but I assume it's still there to a small degree.

 

[CorralesR]

It's nice to have a thread like this where owners can list their higher mile numbers and experience with the car during that time. Counteracts the negativity a little that persists with these special cars. Keep em coming!

 

[sublime1996525]

I’m at 39xxx miles on my 2017. No issues, doesn’t burn oil, and only had the factory warranty. It really has been an amazing car.

 

[rfcs550]

Not quite, Gen 1 here closing in on 70k. Replaced the Magnaride shocks/struts in 2022, had 1 leaking on me. Replaced both rear wheel bearings in Jan-2023. Had her up in the air working on the suspension and noticed a wobble when installing the driver side wheel. Install wasn’t terrible.

Can you shed light on what did you hear or feel to replace the rear wheel bearings? Did you replace the rear shocks? I’ve had to replace the front magnaride shocks but the rears are still original. Wondering what should I be on the lookout for. Btw my 16 gt350 has only 32,000 miles and runs like a champ.

 

[rfcs550]

My rule of thumb was based off of Drag Mode, which won’t allow you to select until you reach 190°F. I don’t select drag mode, but used that temp for my shift rule. So I stay idled on a cold start until 130°F, I go about my way and keep shifts below 3000 rpm until I reach 190°F. Then it’s game time. I’ve been doing this since day 1 and I’m about to crack 70k, I’m sure it’s contributed.

I follow that rule too but not so strictly. I’ts hard to drive in idle for 20 min. waiting for the warmup. That is, once I reach 180 degrees all bets are off. I also check the oil level regularly and top it off to guard against oil deprivation. I think boosting and improper oil level monitoring have contributed to gen 1 engine failures more than anything. My gen 1 w/o any mods has 32,000 miles and runs well.

 

[Hack]

I drove my GT350 a lot in temperatures where the engine would never warm up to 170F. I just used it like a car when it was cold. I didn't rev it out - no reason when you can't use the power due to lack of traction. But mine was at ~33,000 in 2019 when I sold it. No engine problems ever and didn't burn oil.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

Can you shed light on what did you hear or feel to replace the rear wheel bearings? Did you replace the rear shocks? I’ve had to replace the front magnaride shocks but the rears are still original. Wondering what should I be on the lookout for. Btw my 16 gt350 has only 32,000 miles and runs like a champ.

Lift the vehicle to get the wheel off of the ground and start moving the wheel in different directions (not in a spinning motion). If there’s any play with the wheel bolted to the vehicle, the bearing is shot.

One of my rears went out, so I replaced them all. I didn’t feel a difference in ride quality, but I just happened to be under the car and noticed the wet shine on the shock. I located a full set of new Magnaride’s at a great price and just changed them all out.

 

[Kobi Addiction]

I follow that rule too but not so strictly. I’ts hard to drive in idle for 20 min. waiting for the warmup. That is, once I reach 180 degrees all bets are off. I also check the oil level regularly and top it off to guard against oil deprivation. I think boosting and improper oil level monitoring have contributed to gen 1 engine failures more than anything. My gen 1 w/o any mods has 32,000 miles and runs well.

I agree, I've been boosted since 16k miles and keeping the oil topped off has been one of the keys to longevity.

One thing to note, my oil burn has always been minimal during an oil change cycle <1 qt. (depending on how aggressive I drive), but noticed its been increasing approx 75% into the systems oil cycle. Im assuming that's where the oil starts to break down, so I've had to change the oil sooner to keep the burn back to its normal amount.

 

[-RAC-]

39,788 in three summers of driving my 2020. Replace AC compressor and two clutch starter sensors. No other problems. I take it easy on the car until warmed up to 190. I warm up until the fast idled kicks down then drive easy until 190 temp.

My car is bone stock. Even have the stock resonators on the exhaust.

 

[Gilberjj]

Bump. I have a low mileage gen 1 GT350R and I’d like to keep it a long time.
Bumping this thread. Who else has high mileage and how’d you do it?
Thanks

 

[WItoTX]

Bump. I have a low mileage gen 1 GT350R and I’d like to keep it a long time.
Bumping this thread. Who else has high mileage and how’d you do it?
Thanks

I don't have a high milage 350, but warm up is key. These pistons, as others point out, need time to warm up and expand, or you will get some slap. Talking with multiple engine builders, as well as track friends, and that was one of the largest takeaways I got.

Use good oil, change it regularly, good to go. @Inthehighdesert has a bunch of miles on his, and sounds like the car goes everywhere. If he doesn't post here, reach out to him.

I think these engines are pretty solid if being used for their intended purpose (It's a road car, not a track car, despite Fords marketing), as long as you keep everything that affects NVH on the engine stock (Motor mounts, exhaust, tune, etc) and properly maintain them.

Also, you have a proper color there!

 

[Lorne34]

I don't have a high milage 350, but warm up is key. These pistons, as others point out, need time to warm up and expand, or you will get some slap. Talking with multiple engine builders, as well as track friends, and that was one of the largest takeaways I got.

Use good oil, change it regularly, good to go. @Inthehighdesert has a bunch of miles on his, and sounds like the car goes everywhere. If he doesn't post here, reach out to him.

I think these engines are pretty solid if being used for their intended purpose (It's a road car, not a track car, despite Fords marketing), as long as you keep everything that affects NVH on the engine stock (Motor mounts, exhaust, tune, etc) and properly maintain them.

Also, you have a proper color there!

The 2016 Tech Pack is a Road Car only.. that was a big boo boo by Ford.
No Coolers...
But every other model of the 350 including the 2016 Track Package are designed to thrive and survive on a road coarse.
Wheel to Wheel Racing? No.. but "every day guy" track events absolutely.
I agree that these things should stay 100% stock.. the moment you try to tune it.. boost it...mess with the exhaust, headers, etc... you are just asking for trouble....
I'm not saying it can't be done, but your % of risk goes way up.

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