Handling

[Doug T]

You guys are great. The WRX was a 2020 premium. I put a Whiteline 24mm rear sway with bracing and man. You could mash the gas before the apex and it would flat out hook up. That's what I traded for the Mustang. Still got the 02 Miata. Tires on the Stang are good. Michelin ps4. I doubt on the street I'll ever need more?

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[Bikeman315]

While the pp1 may be a "Mild" upgrade, I sure am liken' those big Brembo's and that Torsen 3.73. I like the idea of attaching the back to the car. So go all in you say? Is there a preferred method to take? I read about shearing bolts and/or drilling bushings which I'm not afraid to do. However, if the reward isn't worth the time and effort......

So as you can see there are numerous different opinions on what would be best for you. Some contradict each other making it really difficult to come to some conclusions.

Might I recommend this? Call Steeda (I like them because I have found them to be honest and upfront with their recommendations). Tell them what you have and what you are looking to do. Get their take on what you can do to get where you want to be. It's only a phone call and you might be able to get exactly what you want for a fair price.

 

[Weyland-Yutani]

The mustang is plenty fast, but I want to make a canyon carver out of it. I understand it will never handle like them but always looking to improve. I don't care about drag racing or burnouts and donuts. Car will never be tracked. Just spirited street driving.

Maybe do a lot of spirited driving first, then figure out specifically what you want to improve? Sure, these cars aren't Miatas, but they also aren't horrific considering how porky they are.

My car is a commuter that I occasionally do some assing-around in. It absolutely needs more tire and it's under-damped. There's also some weird non-linearity with the IRS that bugs me, but it feels like it was intentionally engineered so I'm not going to screw with it without understanding it better. Beyond that, I'm not screwing with it.

I used to do some PDE instruction and of course, people would want me to drive their cars and give an opinion. A lot of times I'd have to say "Well, you've stiffened this thing to the point that it's completely lifeless. You may as well not have a suspension".

 

[Norm Peterson]

You guys are great. The WRX was a 2020 premium. I put a Whiteline 24mm rear sway with bracing and man. You could mash the gas before the apex and it would flat out hook up. That's what I traded for the Mustang. Still got the 02 Miata. Tires on the Stang are good. Michelin ps4. I doubt on the street I'll ever need more?

You can probably get away with "mashing the gas" in the WRX because some of the resulting wheel torque gets sent up front, where it helps keep front slip angles in closer balance to the rear slip angles. In the Miata, any cushion would come from the relatively low amount of torque available.

A powerful RWD car does not enjoy either of those effects.


As side note #1, "mashing the gas" is somewhat contrary to smooth driving inputs. Briskly but smoothly adding throttle isn't the same thing.

Side note #2 - a little experimenting with changing Subaru's 33/32 tire pressure recommendations to something closer to 34/36 seems to have dialed out some of the on-throttle heaviness exiting corners taken with "a little enthusiasm".


Norm

 

[NightmareMoon]

I also went through a couple of Miatas and a WRX.

 

[Doug T]

It does seem like the natural "Progression". It wasn't an easy decision getting rid of the WRX. But if I can get the Mustang to handle decent, I'll be a happy boy. And Norm, your comments are spot on.

 

[Nuked]

I am not sure where in PA you are, but I live in northern WV on the border and frequent western PA roads often (work in Pittsburgh). I too wanted my car to be the same way. What I ended up doing suspension wise was the following....

BMR Handling Springs (these handle great, but be warned they are on the stiffer side)
FRPP shocks/struts
BMR Cradle lockout in rear
Steeda anti-roll and bumpsteer kit (these make a big difference in steering feel, probably the most noticeable change as far as driving feel).
19x10 and 19x11 staggered with 285/35 and 325/30 Indy 500 Firehawks.

That is basically it for suspension stuff. With the staggered setup it does understeer some, but I honestly prefer that as I am used to FWD/AWD cars. If Firestone made that tire in a 305/35 it would have that on the rear, but alas it is what it is.

 

[thompsje]

Interesting some of you mention shocks. The floaty boaty sensation I get feels like it needs shocks, mainly in the rear. But my brain tells me they're brand new. Could it be they are "That bad" new? I also notice many who claim the cradle locks and bushing upgrade also have springs/ shocks and sways installed. So, yeah the bushings and whatnot may have helped, but not really apples to apples. For shock recommendations, are the FP shocks a good match for stock spring? Thanks again, I appreciate the feedback.

I haven't done springs and shocks yet (they are literally on order from Steeda), but the first mod I did was the BMR cradle lockouts. It 100% makes a noticeable difference. I have a non-PP that I bought with about 28k on it, and the order of mods for me has been

BMR lockouts
Steeda K-brace
Ford Upper strut brace
BMR sways
Steeda min-drop springs and Bilstein B6 (on order, with PP control arms)

I don't have a ton of time to work on the car, so I usually get one thing done and then it's a couple weeks before the next - which means that I'm not changing multiple things at the same time (eg, so I can tell that with the Steeda brace, the upper strut brace was probably an incremental improvement at best... but it's only $$$) But in my experience, the BMR kit really reduced the "greasy" feeling the rear had when accelerating. That may not be as pronounced when new, so YMMV.

 

[Doug T]

Ok. You guys sold me on the cradle lockout. Plus they're reasonably priced. It's still early but the Ford track pack is looking pretty tasty and CJ pony has it on sale for like $1200. I'm not a cheapskate but I do believe in value for the dollar. Hence the Mustang.

 

[shogun32]

don't bother with replacing differential mounting bolts.

bolts sure, but you want the 14/16 shims and those come with the $40 bolt kit. Until some enterprising fellow decides to knock some of those out on his lathe.

Could it be they are "That bad" new?

yes they are that bad. a sick, demented joke really

JR3W-4A263-EA. about 4"x5". It's away from the bushing about an inch and I can move it around with ease by hand. Ford calls it a damper

yes it's a vibration damper (big hunk of heavy metal). Mine have long since found the bottom of the county dumpster.

 

[SilverNv]

I ended up with
- Ford performance track shocks and struts
- Steeda adjustable camber plates
- bmr sp083 handling springs
- bmr sb044 front sway bar on the softest setting
- bmr cb005 cradle brace kit
- bmr TCA048 vertical links
- steeda adjustable toe links
- Ford toe bearings 161-M-5A460-M

It added a bit firmer ride on uneven roads but on smoother pavement it is close to stock for comfort. Handling is much more performance oriented and the dive when on the brakes is greatly minimized compared to stock. Body roll in corners is greatly reduced.

 

[Doug T]

I have a lathe..........

 

[shogun32]

I have a lathe..........

drill 5/8" 6061 stock with 17/32" bit (well, need 13.9mm, so 14mm is better unless your bit wanders a lot) , 2 pieces ~48-50mm long

 

[Doug T]

Then what.

 

[Dana Pants]

I have a PP1 prepped for SCCA FS autocross: Koni shocks, alignment, tires, rear swaybar, nothing else. If I could change one more thing, I would just put wider wheels and tires on the car.

If you want higher speeds, just add grip from the 200 tread wear tire department.

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