GT350 Engine Refresh Time!

[honeybadger]

Engine envy! When I have more free time in a few months (and more money), I plan to seek out a junkyard voodoo and do what you are doing. Impressive.

Been a fun journey so far. Can't wait to get out on track and see how it compares. Really hoping to hurt some ZL1 1LE and Z06 owners' feelings

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[nastang87xx]

I can't wait to see those dyno numbers!

 

[BKTorch]

Fortunately, Tim at MPR Racing (who did my short block) is more inline with my expectations and will be getting my work in the future.

Tim does really great work. Ive been to his shop a few times to pick up and drop off a motor to fix shoddy work done by another builder. Even though it eventually blew, it wasnt his fault. It was running dry on oil under braking and hard turns and we failed to realize this was the problem. Currently, we are running an 5.0 XS and will need to do a refresh soon which will most likely happen with Tim as well.

This thread has been amazing to see. Good luck with the rest of the build! dont forget to post a dyno sheet when done!

 

[Zitrosounds]

YO!!!! I cant wait!!!!!!!!! 1. to see and hear the badger at the track and 2. The day I build my Voodoo.
I want to be like HB when I grow up!

 

[honeybadger]

YO!!!! I cant wait!!!!!!!!! 1. to see and hear the badger at the track and 2. The day I build my Voodoo.
I want to be like HB when I grow up!

So financially irresponsible and reckless? I like your style

 

[Dominator961]

So financially irresponsible and reckless? I like your style

 

[honeybadger]

Keeping my commitment to transparency -

A fellow with a very keen eye noticed something peculiar with this photo I posted looking for a part number for plug that goes into this hole.

Small crack. sigh...

From the underside...

Talk about a gut punch. Oye. I've spoken with a few different builders and folks with applicable engineering knowledge and have been told, while unfortunate, it's not catastrophic or worth starting over. Supposedly it's most commonly from pulling the transmission to the block using the bellhousing bolts vs. properly aligning it. Tim at MPR told me he sees this crack very often in his shop and runs them as is all the time without issues. Advice was just to be gentle re-attaching the trans. So my plan is to run with it and keep a very close eye on it. We'll see if it grows or causes other problems.

@Zitrosounds - look familiar?

 

[Zitrosounds]

Keeping my commitment to transparency -

A fellow with a very keen eye noticed something peculiar with this photo I posted looking for a part number for plug that goes into this hole.

Small crack. sigh...

From the underside...

Talk about a gut punch. Oye. I've spoken with a few different builders and folks with applicable engineering knowledge and have been told, while unfortunate, it's not catastrophic or worth starting over. Supposedly it's most commonly from pulling the transmission to the block using the bellhousing bolts vs. properly aligning it. Tim at MPR told me he sees this crack very often in his shop and runs them as is all the time without issues. Advice was just to be gentle re-attaching the trans. So my plan is to run with it and keep a very close eye on it. We'll see if it grows or causes other problems.

@Zitrosounds - look familiar?

Identical to the crack on my old GT350. So it is most definitely is common. I'd bet most Coyote and Voodoo blocks have this or will eventually develop such crack. Although I don't believe it is detrimental now, I would preemptively find a fix. Maye welding a plug in place?

Harold,

 

[JAJ]

The old fashioned solution for a running crack in a casting or any other hard material with a tendency to shatter is to drill a hole. The crack runs to the hole and stops. They used to stop cracks in windshields that way, although the more modern solution is to apply cyanoacrylate glue under vacuum and basically freeze the crack in place so it can't spread.

At this point, you've already got the hole at the end of the crack, so it's unlikely that it will spread. To be sure, take a small file and clean up the edges of the drilled hole where the drill poked through the casting at the base of the flange. The goal is to ensure that the crack ends on smooth material. This will eliminate any stress risers and hence the chance of the crack deciding it likes your block and heading out to explore more of it.

 

[honeybadger]

Identical to the crack on my old GT350. So it is most definitely is common. I'd bet most Coyote and Voodoo blocks have this or will eventually develop such crack. Although I don't believe it is detrimental now, I would preemptively find a fix. Maye welding a plug in place?

Harold,

Yep. I've had quite a few folks tell me it shouldn't be a problem, so I plan to leave it alone given that drilling/welding, etc. can introduce more problems. Could potentially use epoxy, but not sure how to thoroughly impregnate the inside of the crack with the epoxy.

The old fashioned solution for a running crack in a casting or any other hard material with a tendency to shatter is to drill a hole. The crack runs to the hole and stops. They used to stop cracks in windshields that way, although the more modern solution is to apply cyanoacrylate glue under vacuum and basically freeze the crack in place so it can't spread.

At this point, you've already got the hole at the end of the crack, so it's unlikely that it will spread. To be sure, take a small file and clean up the edges of the drilled hole where the drill poked through the casting at the base of the flange. The goal is to ensure that the crack ends on smooth material. This will eliminate any stress risers and hence the chance of the crack deciding it likes your block and heading out to explore more of it.

Good idea on the file. Will do that this evening!

 

[Zitrosounds]

Yep. I've had quite a few folks tell me it shouldn't be a problem, so I plan to leave it alone given that drilling/welding, etc. can introduce more problems. Could potentially use epoxy, but not sure how to thoroughly impregnate the inside of the crack with the epoxy.



Good idea on the file. Will do that this evening!

Great ideas! Keep up the awesome work.

 

[Dominator961]

Keeping my commitment to transparency -

A fellow with a very keen eye noticed something peculiar with this photo I posted looking for a part number for plug that goes into this hole.

Small crack. sigh...

From the underside...

Talk about a gut punch. Oye. I've spoken with a few different builders and folks with applicable engineering knowledge and have been told, while unfortunate, it's not catastrophic or worth starting over. Supposedly it's most commonly from pulling the transmission to the block using the bellhousing bolts vs. properly aligning it. Tim at MPR told me he sees this crack very often in his shop and runs them as is all the time without issues. Advice was just to be gentle re-attaching the trans. So my plan is to run with it and keep a very close eye on it. We'll see if it grows or causes other problems.

@Zitrosounds - look familiar?

This can be from a few things.
1) Like said, using the bolts to mate the trans and engine.

2) mounting to a engine stand.

3) shipping.

 

[honeybadger]

This can be from a few things.
1) Like said, using the bolts to mate the trans and engine.

2) mounting to a engine stand.

3) shipping.

I think mine was #1. No definitive pics, but best I can tell the crack was there before I sent it out and just missed it

 

[Dominator961]

I think mine was #1. No definitive pics, but best I can tell the crack was there before I sent it out and just missed it

I feel your pain.

 

[honeybadger]

Got started today. Hopefully ending with aa fully assembled long block tonight

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