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Grabber Lime 2020 GT Build Thread

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Finished the stainless jacking rails :like:

I went for (with my reasons) :
  • 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
  • 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
  • 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
  • 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
  • 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
  • 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
  • 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
  • Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
  • Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
  • 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
  • Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
  • Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).
Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names :like:

Final pictures :

Stainless laser cut pads :

4966-CD98-B469-4679-862-B-7373-A26007-B5.jpg


Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :

D381251-B-01-EF-4-F88-BFBB-4-D26-B056-EED5.jpg


Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :

BEC8-DA39-E88-A-468-E-A9-BA-ABFE86-BDDBF3.jpg


Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :

E294800-C-8-F91-4-A5-F-AF16-C69-E48135-A51.jpg


All done :

BD16688-C-A5-A7-44-B1-815-E-95797-A01-CEDF.jpg


4-D7-FA9-FC-74-C7-4-E09-926-A-59-FB86-C5-AF90.jpg


I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford … :like:

WD :like:
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FMJ

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Finished the stainless jacking rails :like:

I went for (with my reasons) :
  • 304 stainless (good enough for under the car – no issues with scratching / rusting etc).
  • 50 x 30mm section (I wanted them a little lower than the pinch welds).
  • 3mm wall section (I didn’t want to crimp or dent them).
  • 5mm offset for the front holes (to allow for the offset in the frame mounts).
  • 16mm small holes (good wiggle room around the M10’s – still easily covered by the 28mm captive washers.
  • 30mm big holes (to accept the 28mm captive washers / easy size to get blanking plugs).
  • 3mm mounting plates riveted to the underside (no need to trim seam sealer / some air space between the frame / 8mm overall protection for the pinch weld).
  • Stainless rivet’s (just to hold the mounting plates in position relative to the rail during fitment / no chance of electrolytic corrosion with ally rivet’s).
  • Plastic end plugs and hole plugs just to keep the stones out of them.
  • 5mm drain holes at each end of the rail positioned on the outer / lower edges.
  • Both rails are the same length and extended a little at the front.
  • Rails are sized to work with the Steeda IRS braces (which are now coming up on the jobs list).
Overall I am very happy with them and they offer some benefits (to me) compared to the off the shelf offerings – They are sized exactly as I wanted, they should outlast the car and cost me £116 all in (including some spare plugs etc) compared to circa £140 / £175 rrp (+ postage / UK prices) for mild steel offerings from the big names :like:

Final pictures :

Stainless laser cut pads :

4966-CD98-B469-4679-862-B-7373-A26007-B5.jpg


Pads drilled through and countersunk for stainless rivets :

D381251-B-01-EF-4-F88-BFBB-4-D26-B056-EED5.jpg


Pads mounted, original paper templates behind :

BEC8-DA39-E88-A-468-E-A9-BA-ABFE86-BDDBF3.jpg


Ground the internal tubing weld flat where the bolts / washer will clamp :

E294800-C-8-F91-4-A5-F-AF16-C69-E48135-A51.jpg


All done :

BD16688-C-A5-A7-44-B1-815-E-95797-A01-CEDF.jpg


4-D7-FA9-FC-74-C7-4-E09-926-A-59-FB86-C5-AF90.jpg


I have since flushed them through to rid them of debris and give them a scrub up with a 3M pad. They just need the end caps banging in and then bolting under the car, hopefully this weekend if the bolts arrive in time from Ford … :like:

WD :like:
They look great! I’m sure you could sell those 👍
 
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They look great! I’m sure you could sell those 👍
Thank you :like: You are now the third person to mention that (making / selling them) now ...

I just don't think the idea would fly once I had added my time onto the total cost - and the time part of the equation wouldn't go down well with family and other commitments - some of them car related, I still have a load of stuff in the garage to sort and bolt onto it ... :cwl:

Costs could be made cheaper. Removing the stainless pads from the underside would take a chunk of cost out, as would using 25mm section material (like the standard offerings), as would thinning the section down to 2mm (like the standard offerings) - but then I would loose some of the advantages that I wanted. Omitting the end caps and hole plugs would save a bit more and as the rails are stainless, they are only really there for completeness / cosmetics anyway.

Volume wouldn't drive my costs down much either. I don't think I would see much of a reduction in material cost for the quantities I would be buying. The tools to make these things are cheap. I even managed to pass the min order quantity for the laser cutter due to me ordering some brackets I did for Dads garage and some brackets for Bro's remote control car with the same batch.

1612963371376.png


I might consider stuff like that if I was retired, but I'm not and I have a few years to go until then ... :like:

WD :like:
 
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Yeah, you still have that Torsen with 4.09 gears to install. I'm eagerly waiting for news on that front. 😁
That's well buried under the rest of the pile ... :cwl:

I am actually very curious to see how they will gear the Mach 1 and how the 4.09 gearing will fit in. i.e.

UK GT + MT82D4 + 4.09 v
UK Mach 1 + Tremec + 3.55 v
USA Mach 1 + Tremec + 3.73 ?

Remember that the UK Mach 1 gets a bit more power than the UK GT, but (I don't think) we know the box ratios yet and I believe they are still penalising it with the 3.55.

Pretty sure the USA Mach 1 will spank any UK option, unless you start talking major power adders ... :sunglasses:

WD :like:
 

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Jacking rails fitted - with a sigh of relief that all the measurements and marking out were OK so I didn’t need to get the die grinder out ... lol

From front to back, the frame rails holes are now used for :
  • 1 to 4 = Jacking rails.
  • 5 & 6 = IRS braces (yet to be fitted).
  • 7 = Spare (supplied empty from ford - now with a OE bolt blanking it off).
Covered the pads in waxoyl before fitment :

6463228-A-112-F-4-AB5-8428-374114788840.jpg


Reused the OE bolts for the rails. Loctite 243 on the threads. Supertrol on the heads. Torqued them to 45 lbft (New OE bolts for the IRS braces and to blank the last set of frame holes) :

620-FC078-EBE0-4053-807-E-903337-CD2-CE1.jpg


Protection for the pinch welds is about 8mm which is exactly what I was after :

3871-D194-B76-C-4-BF5-A5-EA-F6-A344-AAE05-B.jpg


All done, I should have about a 10mm gap from the end of the rail cap to the start of the IRS brace (once they get fitted) :

B9-AA4-E74-436-E-413-C-A5-B2-4182591-AAB63.jpg


WD :like:
 

FMJ

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Jacking rails fitted - with a sigh of relief that all the measurements and marking out were OK so I didn’t need to get the die grinder out ... lol

From front to back, the frame rails holes are now used for :
  • 1 to 4 = Jacking rails.
  • 5 & 6 = IRS braces (yet to be fitted).
  • 7 = Spare (supplied empty from ford - now with a OE bolt blanking it off).
Covered the pads in waxoyl before fitment :

6463228-A-112-F-4-AB5-8428-374114788840.jpg


Reused the OE bolts for the rails. Loctite 243 on the threads. Supertrol on the heads. Torqued them to 45 lbft (New OE bolts for the IRS braces and to blank the last set of frame holes) :

620-FC078-EBE0-4053-807-E-903337-CD2-CE1.jpg


Protection for the pinch welds is about 8mm which is exactly what I was after :

3871-D194-B76-C-4-BF5-A5-EA-F6-A344-AAE05-B.jpg


All done, I should have about a 10mm gap from the end of the rail cap to the start of the IRS brace (once they get fitted) :

B9-AA4-E74-436-E-413-C-A5-B2-4182591-AAB63.jpg


WD :like:

looking good 👍
 
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I have already posted these pictures elsewhere, but they might as well go in here to add to the cars story :like:

Time to work on the Steeda stuff :like: As supplied, appears to be very little surface prep prior to coating :

0279-EBF9-42-AA-418-E-84-E0-AD99-EF1-C4438.jpg


413-AE13-E-D756-4-C78-BD93-C03780-D07197.jpg


Confirmed after a chemical strip :

98-E04-D7-D-F49-E-4-AC4-B847-ABC894-E23-D48.jpg


Some nice fabrication work though :

7324-BA79-3-C92-42-C7-9-EEA-FA837-B096-F0-F.jpg


Straight from the chemical bath :

C98222-F8-A882-410-D-871-F-A6-B24-DA6-EE35.jpg


After dressing / blunting all the sharp edges / removing weld spatter / smoothing some of the welds etc :

203187-A6-E959-4-F22-9-EF2-03-D7-B7-FF3-A0-D.jpg


Standard - a nice rust starter, even with good coating :

11974-C3-C-DE6-B-44-E3-A76-E-E5-AC9-B9-B9763.jpg


After some brazing (done in the front room ... :giggle:) :

A45-A618-D-7193-490-F-BC6-C-CD0-D632-AB208.jpg


Dressed up :

A5664828-22-FA-4-A9-D-882-E-53-D04-FE84-F7-B.jpg


Coated in RAL3020 (traffic red). I used 3020 as it’s a proper red, I have used it before on other auto projects and as I know the reference, I can easily match it in future :

76-D68-D16-A574-41-AF-99-C2-8157-D9702-C9-F.jpg


5-A5-F3771-3-C47-407-E-8-A4-D-1-CF9-BE6-F5-DD3.jpg


6484-F29-B-9417-4081-9-FC5-EABFF74-F01-A5.jpg


8139477-F-8989-4-FEB-B1-E1-472-C4206-D70-F.jpg


WD :like:
 
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Hello again ... :cwl:

WD :like:

ps : that is the last response you will receive from me :like:

Edit : If anyone is wondering what this post was about, it was in response to my stalker who has now managed to get himself banned and his posts removed ... :facepalm: :giggle:
 
Last edited:

StangTime

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I have already posted these pictures elsewhere, but they might as well go in here to add to the cars story :like:

Time to work on the Steeda stuff :like: As supplied, appears to be very little surface prep prior to coating :



WD :like:
Good work on cleaning up something that should have been done by Steeda in the first place. It's no wonder those braces start rusting a month after install.
 

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I have already posted these pictures elsewhere, but they might as well go in here to add to the cars story :like:

Time to work on the Steeda stuff :like: As supplied, appears to be very little surface prep prior to coating :

0279-EBF9-42-AA-418-E-84-E0-AD99-EF1-C4438.jpg


413-AE13-E-D756-4-C78-BD93-C03780-D07197.jpg


Confirmed after a chemical strip :

98-E04-D7-D-F49-E-4-AC4-B847-ABC894-E23-D48.jpg


Some nice fabrication work though :

7324-BA79-3-C92-42-C7-9-EEA-FA837-B096-F0-F.jpg


Straight from the chemical bath :

C98222-F8-A882-410-D-871-F-A6-B24-DA6-EE35.jpg


After dressing / blunting all the sharp edges / removing weld spatter / smoothing some of the welds etc :

203187-A6-E959-4-F22-9-EF2-03-D7-B7-FF3-A0-D.jpg


Standard - a nice rust starter, even with good coating :

11974-C3-C-DE6-B-44-E3-A76-E-E5-AC9-B9-B9763.jpg


After some brazing (done in the front room ... :giggle:) :

A45-A618-D-7193-490-F-BC6-C-CD0-D632-AB208.jpg


Dressed up :

A5664828-22-FA-4-A9-D-882-E-53-D04-FE84-F7-B.jpg


Coated in RAL3020 (traffic red). I used 3020 as it’s a proper red, I have used it before on other auto projects and as I know the reference, I can easily match it in future :

76-D68-D16-A574-41-AF-99-C2-8157-D9702-C9-F.jpg


5-A5-F3771-3-C47-407-E-8-A4-D-1-CF9-BE6-F5-DD3.jpg


6484-F29-B-9417-4081-9-FC5-EABFF74-F01-A5.jpg


8139477-F-8989-4-FEB-B1-E1-472-C4206-D70-F.jpg


WD :like:
This attention to detail is what I love about threads like these ! Keep up the good work :thumbsup:
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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Good work on cleaning up something that should have been done by Steeda in the first place. It's no wonder those braces start rusting a month after install.
Pretty bad advertisement for Steeda though. Have neither the tools, nor the competence to repeat WD Pro's job. Anyone know if BMR's stuff is better?
 
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Pretty bad advertisement for Steeda though. Have neither the tools, nor the competence to repeat WD Pro's job. Anyone know if BMR's stuff is better?
I wouldn't let my shenanigans put you off :like:

A) I think you live in a warmer more salt free environment that I do.
B) I doubt it, but even if the coating on the set you got was worse than mine, a quick spray with Waxoyl or even something similar to the black crap that ford throw on the underside of the euro's would protect them.
C) Even if they start to corrode, they are made from reasonably thick wall tubing so it would take a long time and a lot of corrosion to start to effect them structurally.
D) If you wanted to do a future refurb / colour code them / bling them up a bit, just take them to your local alloy wheel refurbishment place (which is who did the stripping and coating for me).

You also need to consider that I was kind of hoping my coating wasn't great so I had the excuse to change the colour and I also have the mindset that if I am bothering doing a job, I will do it to the best of my ability - hence the additional dressing up work and brazing etc.

Mine are finished now, ready to be put back in their box until I fit them (they are last on the list of the suspension jobs).

I put some Waxoyl in the tubes before refitting the caps and flatted back the lining on the boss where it clamps so it doesn't crack the edges when torqued up.

A00188-B9-B287-4350-BA05-734-E8018-D5-E5.jpg


Thick gauge large diameter stainless washers on order for all the mounting locations.

I took the opportunity to put them up against the lime and it's fair to say the red really pop's (@Justin also mentioned this with his red bits) :sunglasses:

If viewed at the same angle / in the same light, the red is very similar to the red on the 5.0 dot (which is a little more red than the orangey red of the Brembo print on the front callipers).

The iPhone was kind to me and allowed me to capture the colour accurately (unlike what it does to the lime ...lol), naturel light / no direct sun :

61455-BA3-7-E43-4-BC5-ABC2-1-E91-ED9-DD529.jpg


Naturel light / with some direct sun :

387043-EB-41-DB-4651-8-B6-D-0973-EB87-DF52.jpg


WD :like:
 
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Had to spend few £ on sorting out a few things I didn't really want to be spending on ...

I thought I must have partly jet washed off one of the overlays (I've washed it a few times in about 1°C so assumed they must have got brittle), but when I looked at the projector it didn't seem to be sitting right :

74-D554-AE-66-C3-4-C5-D-B107-B51-D8-F4-F5489.jpg


Turns out it was loose and the clip was broken - not sure how that happens ?

Popped on new / freshly painted mirror caps after the last ones started to react - about four months after they were painted ... ? Better paint shop this around after making contacts at the place that did the front bumper for Ford :

300-D6226-3-C3-A-4667-A54-D-AC929-E3-C4-F5-B.jpg


Whilst at the dealer picking the projector up and booking it in for warranty work (that's another story ... lol) I spotted the colour board and that led to this I posted in the grabber lime thread :

Dealers response when I knew grabber lime was coming and asked them about it - didn’t know.

Dealer when I wanted to order - there’s a photoshopped picture of one on the price list.

So off I went to the states on a family holiday and viewed one over there :like:

Dealer didn’t have anything more to show me when I came home and ordered (December 19).

Dealer still didn’t have anything when I collected (September 20).

Order books close on grabber lime.

March 21 - Dealer has a grabber lime paint sample on the colours board ... :cwl:

So after a short conversation agreeing it was pointless and after them acknowledging that I was the only lime car they sold, I now have a bit more history for the cars keep sake box :

C8-EFAB6-D-0747-4377-8-E43-3-A15-D96-D3-BC3.jpg


DB314748-5582-4-E80-8-E48-1-B02087728-FE.jpg


It was sat next to grabber yellow so at least they got that one on time - although the yellow sample looked like it was out of a rattle can so perhaps a rush job / temporary sample.
WD :like:
The missing spacers from my Steeda stuff turned up along with a few extra's :

A4-A543-D6-9093-4-CBE-9-A30-F2-B83-D4-D3-B53.jpg


So I am hoping to get the front brace fitted soon as I have some time of work using up the remainder of my holidays :like:

WD :like:
 
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Seems like I missed another post from my stalker, who is now banned and his posts have been removed ... :facepalm: :giggle:

Programmed MyKey today in preparation for its trip to the dealers ... :frown:

Also took the opportunity to help them out a bit. As the seat needs to come out I didn’t want pry marks on the bolt covers so I reached under and popped them out from the underside :

DC615-E60-0-E49-4-ED3-9-B16-8757-DA708-BAB.jpg


FFA3-B68-C-51-AE-4362-B707-F3087-A400-E75.jpg


I know it’s easy to say it’s the dealers responsibility, but it’s not worth the hassle of another issue and could you trust your dealer not to mark them ... ?

Finally got around to fixing the loose piece that was bugging me, especially as @Gregs24 even managed to spot it on a photo :cwl: Thanks to a photo from @GR11M it popped out easy. I couldn’t understand how the drivers side was really snug and the passenger side was loose. Turned out the tunnel center console and the dash center console were layered wrongly, I popped them over the other way, warmed the trim piece up to make it flat again and it snapped solidly back into place :

49-AD7319-EE2-A-4-A2-E-A194-2-F49-BEE31118.jpg


In general I don’t do decals, but after buying a sheet of these for something else I thought one suited this position perfectly (and a rare occasion of my iPhone capturing the lime accurately !) :

8-D9080-BB-7-C52-42-A2-A2-C1-5671584-DCDCA.jpg


Arrange a bit of ramp time with an old school friend so as a bit of a timesaver prior to my visit, I managed to reach underneath and snap out the slugs from the front cross member in preparation for the front brace :

43-C0-B991-C628-4547-97-B8-6939-F7-CEFC86.jpg


They came out quite easy flexing them until they broke off using a 1/4” open ended spanner. One of the blanks is missing though, I heard it pling off so it’s either on the drive somewhere or loose inside the box section - I’ve popped some magnets next to the exit holes to try and catch it ... lol

WD :like:
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