Grabber Lime 2020 GT Build Thread

Vlad Soare

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A) New blank ford panels are currently easy to get hold of. New blank ford panels without the lines are hard impossible to find.
Oh, I get it now. When you say blank, you mean really, really blank, not just without a badge.
Then how about this one?
https://steeda.eu.com/collections/mustang-s550-gt/products/s550-mustang-blank-rear-deck-lid

Edit: never mind. I didn't notice it was out of stock. :blush:

B) The GT badge fits in the same holes as the euro gas cap badge, but the euro badge uses additional holes that wont be covered by the GT badge. You can see on the back of the Ford panel all the badge mounting positions, but they only drill them through to suit the required badge (or not at all in the case of the Ford Performance blank panels).
I see. So I would clearly need a new deck lid.
That will be expensive. :frown:





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mike3105

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I got an Ali Express one, it's exactly the same construction as the Ford one, no lines, and a perfect fit. Came in less than two weeks. Also got a GT badge. Didn't like the big bulky round EUUS spec badge, and my car (bought used) had scratches all along the bottom where it'd been used to close the boot lid.

IMG_2052.jpeg
 
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Vlad Soare

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There are also some nice carbon fiber ones.
But the problem with carbon fiber is that once you go down that route, you can't stop. :giggle:
 

MAD MATT

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I might be interested in selling my rear panel...
 
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WD Pro

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I might be interested in selling my rear panel...
I would be interested, but you know from posting those vents to me that the cost of a deck lid panel to the UK is going to get crazy ... :frown:

Anyhow, if your wondering what became of those vents I bought from you ...

After some communications with Jason and Jennifer at Anchor Room, I decided to get busy with designing a template to apply PPF to the leading edges of the bonnet vents, after a few revisions the template was ready :

F9-B6216-F-D90-D-419-B-87-BE-6-C9-AAFD53895.jpg


After sending the files to Jason, everything arrived promptly (including other standard Anchor Room templates for the rear quarters etc) :

2-D6-E3-D32-67-B1-476-A-9575-4-D5-E20-FA0-AF7.jpg


On with the fitment :

45-D9416-E-C3-C7-4-E4-C-8-A41-B21-D7-FBD6446.jpg


Which was actually done in the bathroom, in the bath - easy to keep everything lint free, pet free and child free ... :cwl:

I've never fitted PPF before (or vinyl that's bigger than a typical decal) so this was a bit of a learning curve for me.

I have to be honest, the first go looked great, for about 20 mins and then bubbles started to form under the ppf. In hindsight and after watching the Anchor Room installation videos again, I realised the error of my ways - no where near enough pressure with the squeeze :frown:

Over the next week or so the bubbles reduced by a lot, but not fully. Time to call Jason again and bring Anchor Room's 'Goof Proof' guarantee into play ...

Anyhow, fast forward a little and here is the second go - I'm very happy with the results :

F909-F360-6-BBD-4-B68-845-A-87816-E22-A4-EE.jpg


0-FB57627-CBD6-435-F-9-C5-B-FA6-AFD5-BB064.jpg


There is no final prep on those, they are straight from application, sitting on the window sill, complete with a bit of dust etc.

I just need some nice weather now so I can drop the bonnet liner and get them fitted :like:

Whilst we are on the subject of vinyl and ppf, here's another car related project that Anchor room also helped me out with. I did these templates for the wheel and brake refurb I did on the Kia :

7045-D153-50-CA-44-BD-97-BC-45830-AB89-E60.jpg


Black reflective :

39-FDFDFA-D6-F3-41-B1-980-E-0-DE7-A9-AACA93.jpg


C33-AB833-3-D82-4-B1-A-928-E-717-EDCCFAAF6.jpg


Parked near the mustang :

5-A66858-F-C0-C9-436-D-A18-D-CA03-A8494-CB5.jpg


At night they bounce back whatever colour light hits them :

9-B657-C15-D445-4592-8-E21-8-F5689-D01580.jpg


09-E0-A62-B-2-E91-4-CCC-AC62-243-FB337181-D.jpg


Anyhow, back on the mustang and the quest for me to find the perfect wheel nuts (for me) :like:

The standard ford nut measures :

Max OD (over stainless cap) : 30.75mm
Max OD (of the ford taper) : 27.10mm
Max OD (that actually contacts the taper in the wheel) : 25.00mm

I found the last measurement using dry wipe marker on a standard nut and torquing it up, it was also a good excuse to try out my new 24" breaker and socket that I got for birthday :

AD019766-4-EA4-4-D85-A1-BE-C259-F4992921.jpg


Diameter needed to cover the silver masked area on the PP wheels : 28.00mm (approx) :

B5-BC2-B3-D-F2-B0-406-C-A71-F-E2-FB37-EA56-EB.jpg


Black wheel nuts are now on the Christmas list ... :like:

WD :like:
 

Vlad Soare

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Do you happen to have a picture showing the black pony installed? When you see the car parked twenty yards away, is it reasonably easy to figure out what that thing on its grille is? It it still easily recognizable as the classic Mustang logo?
I take it you must remove the grill to change the pony. Is it difficult?
 
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I don’t have many front end pictures, this is probably one of the best to see the grill :

4-FBFFA59-EC80-4-EC9-942-D-1639-C3160-EB9.jpg


The horse blends in (which is what I wanted), but is obviously a horse when you look at it properly.

If you want rid of the chrome but still want it noticeable - have you considered going body coloured so you get a nice contrast to the gloss black honeycomb ? :sunglasses:

Yes, to do it properly the grill needs to come off to swap it out (unless you want to drill the old one out and glue the new one in) and to get the grill out means the bumper coming off.

I understand that the bumper is quite easy to remove but I got unlucky / lucky as my car had a trip to the body shop before purchase (where the above picture was taken), so I took advantage of that situation with the badge swap and the big mouth.

Actually swapping the badge (properly) is really easy when the grill is out and I fitted it with new stainless locking washers.

Hope that helps ?

WD :like:
 

Vlad Soare

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Ford Performance Torsen diff.
Ford Performance 4.09 rear gear.
Ford Performance diff rebuild kit.
Have you already replaced the diff? Or is it still in the planning phase?
I'm curious how the Torsen feels in comparison to the stock 3.55 clutch-based diff.
Also, I thought the Torsen was a 3.74. Can you raise it to 4.09?
 
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Have you already replaced the diff? Or is it still in the planning phase?

I'm curious how the Torsen feels in comparison to the stock 3.55 clutch-based diff.

Also, I thought the Torsen was a 3.74. Can you raise it to 4.09?
That will be a (very) long term project :like:

Opinion is that the Torsen will allow you to get on the power earlier when exiting a corner and they are better suited for performance (handling) situations.

There must be a good reason for ford to spec them for PP cars and above ... :like:

I understand the trac locs can lose effectiveness, sometimes quite quickly (usage dependant) and the Torsen is fit and forget / maintenance free.

One of a few threads on here about the differences : https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...on-lok-lsd-differential-pros-and-cons.110716/

Gear ratios can be swapped to suit (within reason). More tricky on the 2020's as they need software updates alongside the mechanical components.

4:09 is the highest Ford performance offers, but I think 4.56 and up to 4.88 are available aftermarket.

4:09 goes some way to compensating for the 3.55 (Euro) to 3.73 (US) discrepancy AND the MT82 to MT82D4 ratio changes.

WD :like:
 

Vlad Soare

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I think the difference between how Torsens and Trac-Loks work internally would be unnoticeable on the street. But I was curious how the 3.74 feels in comparison to the standard 3.55. On paper it's clear, but I'm interested in how exactly it feels in real life to someone who has driven both.
I mean, sure, the engine will get to high revs earlier. But how high? And how early? You will accelerate faster at low speeds, and during a standing start, that's for sure, but will you then have to be in fifth gear at 35 mph when travelling casually? I'm exaggerating here, of course the difference can't be that drastic (it might be with a 4.09, though), but hearing it directly from someone who has personally tried both would be nice.
That's why I was hoping that you've already made the upgrade. :)
 
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I would agree about not really noticing the difference on the street :like: Maybe once the standard diff wears it would become more apparent though as you would then be comparing to more of an open diff ... ?

There's quite a lot of feedback on the forum now on the 4:09's. Its all positive and I think that's coming from guys who started with 3.55 and also some who started on 3.73 :like:

WD :like:
 

Vlad Soare

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I would agree about not really noticing the difference on the street :like: Maybe once the standard diff wears it would become more apparent though as you would then be comparing to more of an open diff ... ?
Yes, but I think it would take a lot of time to wear out the clutches under normal driving conditions.
Now donuts are a different story. If you do a lot of those, then I'm sure you'll notice the wear quite clearly, and quite soon. :)

There's quite a lot of feedback on the forum now on the 4:09's. Its all positive and I think that's coming from guys who started with 3.55 and also some who started on 3.73 :like:
Yes, but it's coming from guys who use their cars mainly on the track, and for whom drag racing is the ultimate measure of a car's performance. I'm sure that on the track (or drag strip for that matter) the higher the transmission ratio, the better the car's performance, but that may not be so great if the car is your daily driver and you spend quite a bit of time in stop and go traffic. Or maybe it would be perfectly fine. I don't know.
I find 3.55 great for casual driving, but not so great when I want to get on the power fast. I think 3.73 may be a better compromise.
 
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I don't think the comments are solely from track guys :like:

The 4.09 gear set makes 1st to 3rd near identical to a pre 18 US PP1, 4th upwards are still longer geared.

Ford gave the 18+ more power and then took away almost all of that advantage with the D4 gearing.

Even with the 4.09's it will :
  • Still break every leagl UK limit, in 2nd gear ... :shock: :cwl:
  • Be at approx 2150rpm at 70mph in 6th.
I think I read on here that after doing the maths, someone claimed the 4.09 (compared to the 3.55 that we get) was approx equivalent to a 40lbft increase in engine torque.

WD :like:
 
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@Elp_jc - This ones your fault ... :cwl:

B555-F3-BC-C94-F-4704-A20-D-96-F6-B2-C7737-A.jpg


5-CC8-D69-B-37-D5-4423-AC22-19-C2-E6346-A30.jpg


Found this in the footwell ... ?

C8505-F73-D712-4073-81-EA-FD1-E01-A3-EFBA.jpg


Ah, that explains it ...

C5-CD35-F3-4130-4-BB6-89-B6-19-D365-CFB450.jpg


Sorry Ford, you’ve just lost another one ...

Joking aside, I hope I never have to change a fuse in the dark and rain etc as an emergency repair !

Other than those few odd things, I got time to give it a good clean.

Opened the doors and flicked the catch up to finally get the smearing that had been bugging me :

1-BF35872-4-A1-F-4-D21-949-A-62432726795-F.jpg


03-DADC7-D-5-F2-E-4041-BE9-A-6-EC6-AF5-FE7-B9.jpg


New wheel chemical wheel brush, bigger is always better ...

57892-B3-A-0-A8-C-4630-B52-A-66365-A3-CEE07.jpg


The new one is long, the black parts are rubber, and the end cap is seamless stainless with rolled in ends. Even so, a bit of heat shrink should minimise any accidents :

645-D7784-CD7-B-4158-95-E7-C8357-DD4-E851.jpg


I’ve still not had the wheels off, but this thing allows me to get chemicals right to the back with ease :

02-A67348-377-B-4345-A6-B7-F6877-C6939-ED.jpg


B1940586-61-F7-46-BC-B71-C-D0166-FF53904.jpg


All the staining that ford left for me is gone, now I just need to work on the underseal overspray ...

So what does it do after cleaning the car ? Of course it rains :facepalm:

At least it shows the Megs ultimate quick wax does a good job of clinging on (we are five weeks in) :

13667634-94-A0-4-EF5-9725-0-CA8-D798-CA40.jpg


WD :like:
 

Gregs24

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@Elp_jc - This ones your fault ... :cwl:

B555-F3-BC-C94-F-4704-A20-D-96-F6-B2-C7737-A.jpg


5-CC8-D69-B-37-D5-4423-AC22-19-C2-E6346-A30.jpg


Found this in the footwell ... ?

C8505-F73-D712-4073-81-EA-FD1-E01-A3-EFBA.jpg


Ah, that explains it ...

C5-CD35-F3-4130-4-BB6-89-B6-19-D365-CFB450.jpg


Sorry Ford, you’ve just lost another one ...

Joking aside, I hope I never have to change a fuse in the dark and rain etc as an emergency repair !

Other than those few odd things, I got time to give it a good clean.

Opened the doors and flicked the catch up to finally get the smearing that had been bugging me :

1-BF35872-4-A1-F-4-D21-949-A-62432726795-F.jpg


03-DADC7-D-5-F2-E-4041-BE9-A-6-EC6-AF5-FE7-B9.jpg


New wheel chemical wheel brush, bigger is always better ...

57892-B3-A-0-A8-C-4630-B52-A-66365-A3-CEE07.jpg


The new one is long, the black parts are rubber, and the end cap is seamless stainless with rolled in ends. Even so, a bit of heat shrink should minimise any accidents :

645-D7784-CD7-B-4158-95-E7-C8357-DD4-E851.jpg


I’ve still not had the wheels off, but this thing allows me to get chemicals right to the back with ease :

02-A67348-377-B-4345-A6-B7-F6877-C6939-ED.jpg


B1940586-61-F7-46-BC-B71-C-D0166-FF53904.jpg


All the staining that ford left for me is gone, now I just need to work on the underseal overspray ...

So what does it do after cleaning the car ? Of course it rains :facepalm:

At least it shows the Megs ultimate quick wax does a good job of clinging on (we are five weeks in) :

13667634-94-A0-4-EF5-9725-0-CA8-D798-CA40.jpg


WD :like:
Whatever you do don't drive that car - it'll never be the same again !!!
 

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