Grabber Lime 2020 GT Build Thread

Entai

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Whilst you are in the boot ditch the awful speaker in the sub and replace it with one that makes music rather than boom !

A sub is supposed to be just for boom.

It should never have the range to "play music"





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Gregs24

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A sub is supposed to be just for boom.

It should never have the range to "play music"
No it shouldn't. The OEM sub just provides a 60Hz boom / resonance that overwhelms the music. A good Sub should be able to play a range of low frequency sound without resonance or boom (loss of cone control). Bass should be tight and musical (within the subs frequency range) - Lots about it in the threads on the main forum about how poor the sub is and how badly tuned the OEM system is. Honestly replacing the speaker makes a night and day difference to the whole system. I have done a thread on how I replaced mine as well.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-i-improved-the-b-o-sound-quality-for-free.141052/


https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/
 

Entai

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No it shouldn't. The OEM sub just provides a 60Hz boom / resonance that overwhelms the music. A good Sub should be able to play a range of low frequency sound without resonance or boom (loss of cone control). Bass should be tight and musical (within the subs frequency range) - Lots about it in the threads on the main forum about how poor the sub is and how badly tuned the OEM system is. Honestly replacing the speaker makes a night and day difference to the whole system. I have done a thread on how I replaced mine as well.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-i-improved-the-b-o-sound-quality-for-free.141052/


https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/

Fair enough horses for courses I guess.

To me it is not worth the expense of money, and especially not worth the time to faff around with something that gets used maybe once every couple of months or so.

Personally turn the bass right down midrange up and its perfectly ok for me on the rare occasion I ever listen to anything in the car.
 

Gregs24

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Fair enough horses for courses I guess.

To me it is not worth the expense of money, and especially not worth the time to faff around with something that gets used maybe once every couple of months or so.

Personally turn the bass right down midrange up and its perfectly ok for me on the rare occasion I ever listen to anything in the car.
But if you turn the bass right down it sounds like a transistor radio!

£70 and about half an hour to fit

Depends on what you use the car for - mine is a daily driver
 

PKs

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More cheap tat from eBay, the brackets were painted in super troll prior to putting them on :

AEF8-CF1-F-7-AAD-4822-B671-F49-DD50-A60-C0.jpg


DDDA56-E0-C37-C-494-B-9-B0-E-6-DD89-A9-C8-C43.jpg


151-F2898-6427-4-B91-B59-C-BABFEE335-B05.jpg


CF6-FC730-3-C46-4-F7-C-A998-98433-FDF4-EFA.jpg


Plenty cavity wax in these doors ...

1-C98-A0-DC-1173-4404-87-D2-7-FA5348994-CC.jpg


I found where they put the modem on the 2020’s :

D89-A0-CFF-BD27-4140-A0-F3-4-C7-DCD50-B6-B4.jpg


That was whilst putting in the sequencers from exotic pony mods, you can see where I’ve secured the extra wiring plug so I don’t strain the wires. The other side was secured to the sub box mount.

Managed to get the trim ring off the sub box without breaking it (it’s supposedly very easy to crack it and it’s not available separately). I will buy some fibre fill now as it’s recommended for the standard mustang sub :

2-E600-DC7-7212-4839-8-A32-1-BC2907-E3-AAC.jpg


This area was looking a bit bare :

BDF5-E41-B-6696-40-CC-A7-D0-92-A57-BBA5-DD8.jpg


Bracket installed easily and torqued you correctly :

1-C827070-60-AC-45-D6-9-A38-62-F4962-A1-E7-E.jpg


That’s better :

5868-E825-EAFC-4-C04-8852-FCC0-E5-CBD6-EB.jpg


Some more eBay tat :

C0-FE4-CCE-4-D11-49-DD-B0-B3-8-E737962-BFC1.jpg


Drilled these from a template I made the day before my car arrived thanks to @Mikthehun1 :

4-D066284-D789-4029-961-F-EB2343-D3323-A.jpg


I can fish them out now without the dreaded screwdriver marks that will inevitably come in later life. Just need some small rubber bungs now.

Lime puddle lights now thanks to @Zombie :

B85-F157-D-5-BA9-47-B9-9-CB1-6659590-CD418.jpg


92215982-A82-D-45-F1-B6-E6-5064-AA7-F2-CC7.jpg


0865-A8-CA-B411-4-C4-D-B740-5-EAD7-AFD7-FDF.jpg


FA0-BC6-BE-8789-45-E6-8-EE6-FF14-BCFEC386.jpg


You can just about see the black mirror caps on the puddle light lens pictures, I forgot to photo those :like:

WD :like:
Hi WD Pro. How was using Storenvy payment on the Zombie site. They sound suss in reviews. I clicked on payment via Paypal but seems I still have to give details to this Storenvy.
 
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WD Pro

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Hi WD Pro. How was using Storenvy payment on the Zombie site. They sound suss in reviews. I clicked on payment via Paypal but seems I still have to give details to this Storenvy.
No problem at all and the stuff got to the U.K. quickly.

He sells quite a bit on here so take confidence in that, he’s also a long time forum member :like:

If your buying for a 2020 build just hang fire a bit - they changed the puddle light lens design and there’s a prototype due to land with me any time, pictures coming in due course :wink:

WD :like:
 
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PKs

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No problem at all and the stuff got to the U.K. quickly.

He sells quite a bit on here so take confidence in that, he’s also a long time forum member :like:

If your buying for a 2020 build just hang fire a bit - they changed the puddle light lens design and there’s a prototype due to land with me any time, pictures coming in due course :wink:

WD :like:
Thanks for that. No, I was buying for my 2018.
 
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WD Pro

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Not much to report this weekend.

I did add a bit of patriotism so it doesn’t miss home :

CEE23-C28-CAB0-458-C-8396-949-AA7-E9-CD68.jpg


The best rear car mats I’ve ever had :

9-EF004-CE-3259-4-ED5-8111-9-D5-A05-D730-EB.jpg


And the Steeda clutch return spring :

F2375566-ADEF-4-FDE-B798-5-AE694299639.jpg


I think the locking pliers cost as much as the spring ... :facepalm:

The springs easy to fit with that tool and following the instructions - I’m not quite sure just how heavy handed you need to be to break the perch ... ? (Or perhaps Ford have beefed it up a little as the years have gone on ?).

Impressions ... ? Well, bear in in mind I’ve drove manual for 27 years and didn’t really have a problem with the original setup, but the spring was cheap and I already had it in the spares box so I had little to lose. Normal driving it only makes a little difference on initial setting off, it kind of feels like the pedal is a little harder, BUT only through a bit of it’s travel (about a third of the way through its travel as you release the clutch). It does kind of feel a bit more ‘linear’.

So after driving it around the estate so I had plenty stop start driving, I could take it or leave it - no real benefit (for me). However, I reverse up my drive through a gate on a bit of an incline at a speed where I’m right on the biting point of the clutch - in that scenario there was a marked improvement in feel / control. On those grounds alone I would recommend it (for me), especially considering the nominal outlay :like:

—————————————————————

On another note I’ve been asked about a shopping list for the boot pulls, bearing in mind I’m U.K. based, here it is :

2 x M5 rivnuts (these will fit into the push pin holes without modification to the boot skin). I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

2 x M6 stainless steel repair washers. Drill the holes out to 8mm to suit the outer diameter of the M5 rivnut. Don’t get M8 washers - the hole is larger than 8mm and it won’t be a snug fit on the rivnut which isn’t ideal. I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

2 x M5 x 20 (I think, they might have been a bit shorter, maybe 15 ?) stainless steel countersunk screws. I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

16mm webbing (eBay part number for what I ordered = 141829977842). Chop this to a length that suits you. Melt holes in it. Seal the ends with heat to stop fraying. Squash the melts flat before they cool. Make sure they fit neatly under the next item.

2 x M5 x 16 countersunk ally washers in a colour of your choice (eBay part number for what I ordered = 274342448458). I bought a pack of five.

So a bit of messing around sorting bits from different places but cheap and with what I believe to be a nice look. Less than £10 for enough to make multiple pull straps :like:

If anyone is interested in the matching sub box mounts :

2 x M8 x 30 stainless steel countersunk screws.

2 x M8 x 25 countersunk ally washers in a colour of your choice (eBay part number for what I ordered = 274342430924). I bought a pack of five. Note that this size of washer is larger than the Ford fitted item so it will give you a bit of tolerance to line the box up a little better if Ford fitted it on the piss and hide the indentations left in the plastic mounts from the original washers.

Hope that helps :like:

WD :like:
 

StangTime

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Not much to report this weekend.

I did add a bit of patriotism so it doesn’t miss home :

CEE23-C28-CAB0-458-C-8396-949-AA7-E9-CD68.jpg


The best rear car mats I’ve ever had :

9-EF004-CE-3259-4-ED5-8111-9-D5-A05-D730-EB.jpg


And the Steeda clutch return spring :

F2375566-ADEF-4-FDE-B798-5-AE694299639.jpg


I think the locking pliers cost as much as the spring ... :facepalm:

The springs easy to fit with that tool and following the instructions - I’m not quite sure just how heavy handed you need to be to break the perch ... ? (Or perhaps Ford have beefed it up a little as the years have gone on ?).

Impressions ... ? Well, bear in in mind I’ve drove manual for 27 years and didn’t really have a problem with the original setup, but the spring was cheap and I already had it in the spares box so I had little to lose. Normal driving it only makes a little difference on initial setting off, it kind of feels like the pedal is a little harder, BUT only through a bit of it’s travel (about a third of the way through its travel as you release the clutch). It does kind of feel a bit more ‘linear’.

So after driving it around the estate so I had plenty stop start driving, I could take it or leave it - no real benefit (for me). However, I reverse up my drive through a gate on a bit of an incline at a speed where I’m right on the biting point of the clutch - in that scenario there was a marked improvement in feel / control. On those grounds alone I would recommend it (for me), especially considering the nominal outlay :like:

—————————————————————

On another note I’ve been asked about a shopping list for the boot pulls, bearing in mind I’m U.K. based, here it is :

2 x M5 rivnuts (these will fit into the push pin holes without modification to the boot skin). I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

2 x M6 stainless steel repair washers. Drill the holes out to 8mm to suit the outer diameter of the M5 rivnut. Don’t get M8 washers - the hole is larger than 8mm and it won’t be a snug fit on the rivnut which isn’t ideal. I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

2 x M5 x 20 (I think, they might have been a bit shorter, maybe 15 ?) stainless steel countersunk screws. I had these in the garage so didn’t need to order.

16mm webbing (eBay part number for what I ordered = 141829977842). Chop this to a length that suits you. Melt holes in it. Seal the ends with heat to stop fraying. Squash the melts flat before they cool. Make sure they fit neatly under the next item.

2 x M5 x 16 countersunk ally washers in a colour of your choice (eBay part number for what I ordered = 274342448458). I bought a pack of five.

So a bit of messing around sorting bits from different places but cheap and with what I believe to be a nice look. Less than £10 for enough to make multiple pull straps :like:

If anyone is interested in the matching sub box mounts :

2 x M8 x 30 stainless steel countersunk screws.

2 x M8 x 25 countersunk ally washers in a colour of your choice (eBay part number for what I ordered = 274342430924). I bought a pack of five. Note that this size of washer is larger than the Ford fitted item so it will give you a bit of tolerance to line the box up a little better if Ford fitted it on the piss and hide the indentations left in the plastic mounts from the original washers.

Hope that helps :like:

WD :like:
That's awesome! Thank you.
 

MAD MATT

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More cheap tat from eBay, the brackets were painted in super troll prior to putting them on :

AEF8-CF1-F-7-AAD-4822-B671-F49-DD50-A60-C0.jpg


DDDA56-E0-C37-C-494-B-9-B0-E-6-DD89-A9-C8-C43.jpg


151-F2898-6427-4-B91-B59-C-BABFEE335-B05.jpg


CF6-FC730-3-C46-4-F7-C-A998-98433-FDF4-EFA.jpg


Plenty cavity wax in these doors ...

1-C98-A0-DC-1173-4404-87-D2-7-FA5348994-CC.jpg


I found where they put the modem on the 2020’s :

D89-A0-CFF-BD27-4140-A0-F3-4-C7-DCD50-B6-B4.jpg


That was whilst putting in the sequencers from exotic pony mods, you can see where I’ve secured the extra wiring plug so I don’t strain the wires. The other side was secured to the sub box mount.

Managed to get the trim ring off the sub box without breaking it (it’s supposedly very easy to crack it and it’s not available separately). I will buy some fibre fill now as it’s recommended for the standard mustang sub :

2-E600-DC7-7212-4839-8-A32-1-BC2907-E3-AAC.jpg


This area was looking a bit bare :

BDF5-E41-B-6696-40-CC-A7-D0-92-A57-BBA5-DD8.jpg


Bracket installed easily and torqued you correctly :

1-C827070-60-AC-45-D6-9-A38-62-F4962-A1-E7-E.jpg


That’s better :

5868-E825-EAFC-4-C04-8852-FCC0-E5-CBD6-EB.jpg


Some more eBay tat :

C0-FE4-CCE-4-D11-49-DD-B0-B3-8-E737962-BFC1.jpg


Drilled these from a template I made the day before my car arrived thanks to @Mikthehun1 :

4-D066284-D789-4029-961-F-EB2343-D3323-A.jpg


I can fish them out now without the dreaded screwdriver marks that will inevitably come in later life. Just need some small rubber bungs now.

Lime puddle lights now thanks to @Zombie :

B85-F157-D-5-BA9-47-B9-9-CB1-6659590-CD418.jpg


92215982-A82-D-45-F1-B6-E6-5064-AA7-F2-CC7.jpg


0865-A8-CA-B411-4-C4-D-B740-5-EAD7-AFD7-FDF.jpg


FA0-BC6-BE-8789-45-E6-8-EE6-FF14-BCFEC386.jpg


You can just about see the black mirror caps on the puddle light lens pictures, I forgot to photo those :like:

WD :like:
What do you think about these little covers? I was going to get them, but the Amazon reviews say they break when you try to put them on. Thoughts?
 
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WD Pro

WD Pro

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What do you think about these little covers? I was going to get them, but the Amazon reviews say they break when you try to put them on. Thoughts?
I think that all depends on how rough (thoughtless ?) you are with them when you fit them ... :like:

I managed with no problem, but I thought about it a little first.

Two things probably helped me :

A) I dropped the parts in very hot (just off the boil) water to make the plastic less brittle and less prone to stress marks.

B) This one might be a bit difficult to explain - Rather than just forcing it on (which I suspected would stress the plastic), I used this method :
  • With the cover held in the correct orientation and over the steel loop, position one hand above the cover slot and the other below.
  • Push / rotate the bottom half of the cover 'flap' backwards (this one is going to go under the loop).
  • Pull / rotate the top half of the cover 'flap' forwards (this one is going to go over the loop).
  • With the gap that's been opened up, just kind of feed the cover under and then around the loop - bottom 'flap' going under the loop and the top 'flap' going over it.
  • That's the tricky bit done, the rest is just snapping the cover into place on the loop backing plate. I can't remember if it's the inside or outside edge that clicks on first (one side has a hook to fit under the plate) but with a bit of care you wont get any problems.
Or ... maybe there's different suppliers and different grades of plastic etc and maybe I just got lucky ... ?

Hopefully I've explained myself well ?

The hinge covers snapped on real easy, I did nothing special with those.

Anyhow, these things are so cheap it's probably worth having a go anyway :like:

WD :like:
 

Pero

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What do you think about these little covers? I was going to get them, but the Amazon reviews say they break when you try to put them on. Thoughts?
I bought them here:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XYCXTXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XYKQLBP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem with installation. They feels very resistant and durable.
I have remove and reinstall them 4 times and I didn't perceive any weakness or did any damage to them. These particular parts are worth its money.
 
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WD Pro

WD Pro

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Yeah those are much more expensive (but still cheap) than the bargain basement eBay versions I picked up - they are probably worth it in the long run, especially if you have the need to remove / reinstall them a few times :like:

WD :like:
 
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WD Pro

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After working with @Zombie on the 2020 puddle light changes I now have these fitted :

F0-E25-F16-8770-4841-AA06-B4-CC7-FD1-C643.jpg


It’s really hard to capture on a camera at night (they look shaper in real life) but here’s the best picture I can get of the projected image :

34-D2-A5-A5-9-F92-4602-8-DEB-8-A698-DA0-C194.jpg


In reality, any loss of clarity is minimal and (in my opinion) far outweighed by the cool colour coding :sunglasses:

Anyhow, check them out here : https://stickyzombie.storenvy.com/products/31086760-puddle-light-overlays-design-2 :like:

Removed Fords ‘poorly fitted already got shit under them’ decals :

8593695-C-4805-4-E91-9-C64-D55277-D69-D48.jpg


30293-B43-CD66-4246-A4-D5-30-E957-AC6-E83.jpg


And replaced them with the ‘bit more care and attention’ version :

DD0270-C0-C498-40-E1-BDC0-E1-EAE7-DA68-CD.jpg


05-E9355-A-6-DC2-4-C04-B920-7572-AB70355-E.jpg


Started with the paintwork detail. Plenty of fallout on a U.K. version by the time it’s completed it’s journey. Any upwards facing surface that wasn’t covered during shipping is bad with the rear end being the worst, particular on the left hand side. This is the top of the rear quarter :

B2-BF726-D-D4-FB-49-AC-AB63-E645070-E064-E.jpg


That bad it felt like it needed a shave ... :cwl:

To make things even more fun, we also get the under seal overspray to deal with (parking sensor in shot as a size reference) :

E8-C5-D498-1457-490-B-96-D3-3-B74-D9-A212-DC.jpg


Looking much better now :

10989-B76-95-C1-4162-B3-C7-1602-D01-ACDBD.jpg


I used a clay mitt for the first time today. It’s a great time saver (I reckon it saved me about two hours), but for me it’s not a full substitute for a traditional clay bar. I still had to go old school with a small piece of clay to get into the more intricate areas, no way was the mitt getting right into the tight corners :

• Shut lines between rear fender and the sill piece.
• Shit (:cwl:) lines between rear fender and bumper.
• That gap under the rear lights.
• Return edges and around inside filler cap.
• Around the parking sensor black rings.
• Edge between bottom of window trims and paintwork.
• Bottom of A pillars on wing joint.
• Door returns.
• Door handle edges.
• Wing mirror edges.
• Those pesky little indentations on the top of the door handle.
Etc.

I lubed the mitt with an extra sudsy wash mix - worked great with zero marring :like:

Im still of the impression that the paint is in great shape, I’m not going to need the polisher at this moment in the cars life (I’d rather leave as much clear on it as possible - you never know when you may need it ...).

Some pre wax snaps :

EF19-F6-EE-031-C-4278-B88-E-2527-AC008-DDD.jpg


FBDDD344-AAA1-4-FE4-8-B5-D-BFF447-D63-C8-A.jpg


1-CAB5962-60-E4-489-D-91-FE-44-D9138-A5-A09.jpg


Hopefully I will get some quality wax on there soon :like:

WD :like:
 

raptor17GT

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i couldn't even be arsed to wash mine after a wee drive and (food) shopping trip and you've done all this. I need to sort myself out!:blush:
 

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