Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

[ice445]

It does run great, if you don't look at the numbers there's no problem One could argue there's no problem at all, timing advance does tend to swing wildly at those ranges. I suspect if you logged a stock car running 87 you might see something similar. If you have 93 in your area, I'm pretty confident you'll get the full benefit the majority of the time.

I really think heat management will bring out the best in this kit though. I'm gonna chase that before I'd go back to stock. As I said initially, the car pretty much always feels better to drive with this so it would be hard to give that up...

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[Smunczen]

I run 93 here in Ga. The car runs great.

 

[ice445]

I run 93 here in Ga. The car runs great.

Yeah I'm not surprised, 93 octane + PP2 cars have no shutters. Bet it runs incredible

 

[Smunczen]

It runs like the car should have out of the box.

 

[dman918]

Car runs great for me. I just am not fond of the fit.

Quick question, can we use this tuner module to run forscan or do I still need a separate cable?

 

[StangTime]

Yeah I'm not surprised, 93 octane + PP2 cars have no shutters. Bet it runs incredible

93 octane here. Which has 10% ethanol in it. That helps cool the heads. PP1 car with no grille shutters. Maybe consider removing yours? I've seen posts of this being done in the past. What about using a different thermostat?

 

[StangTime]

Car runs great for me. I just am not fond of the fit.

Quick question, can we use this tuner module to run forscan or do I still need a separate cable?

You will need an appropriate ODBII interface to use Forscan.

 

[dman918]

You will need an appropriate ODBII interface to use Forscan.

Thanks for the quick response

 

[ice445]

93 octane here. Which has 10% ethanol in it. That helps cool the heads. PP1 car with no grille shutters. Maybe consider removing yours? I've seen posts of this being done in the past. What about using a different thermostat?

I'm going to unplug the motor and test it that way before going full delete. If the car doesn't throw a light that way I may end up just leaving it like that forever. If you remove the entire assembly, you also lose the "scoop" portions which can affect aerodynamics and airflow to some minor extent. The PP cars basically have a similar plastic plate, just without the shutter part. I'd have to buy that to sleep soundly at night. Thermostat wise it doesn't really matter that much, that only affects your temps at steady state cruise unless you also tune the fan logic (and in this case the shutter logic which isn't happening). The stock 180 is plenty with the PP rad to keep temps low once the airflow is sufficient.

Also, if you don't bother logging any data this tune rocks. Just feels good all the time as others have mentioned. I was probably jumping the gun with some of my data interpretation. With per cylinder knock control and a fast recovery rate (under 1 second), the amount of correction you can view on a scan tool is obviously going to be very high compared to the stock tune, which basically doesn't do anything after it knocks once and retards. I wouldn't be surprised at all if you could still see large corrections on the stock tune running on 87, just with less frequency. The car most likely has some sort of learning table for spark correction in the KAM, so it's not constantly pushing the absolute limits anyway. This is probably why people report the car feeling really crappy for a little while after the battery is disconnected or you do a reset for some other reason.

So yeah, if anyone is on the fence with a manual car, the drivability this tune provides is pretty game changing. Gone are the days where the car is lazy and slow for no reason, gone is the majority of the rev hang and weird shifting behavior, gone is the huge delay for the cams to advance when you downshift to get on it (especially with a 300A car with no modes), etc. Basically all my real complaints about the car are deleted now. I even used the procal to change my tire size for my summer set and it worked great, speedo is literally dead on with the GPS.

I still recommend anyone with shutters to bypass them in some way to get the most benefit out of this though (or hell, even the stock car). I did some digging and the timing tables are much more favorable to CHT 200 or below when it comes to making power. Plus one less thing to fail. The literal only benefit to the shutters besides MPG is that they keep rocks and debris from damaging the condenser and radiator over time.

 

[Jaymar]

Just my .02, coming from an Ecoboost there is no penalty removing the shutters. I left the motor plugged in and tucked it away to avoid the BCM error but that is minor. If you really cared to minimize impact, you could remove the shutters only and keep the frame and motor. Ecoboost had to remove and cut portions to add an intercooler.

 

[Lbj]

I need help..Ok i tried to install my ford tune and my computer has windows 10 with s mode ...so how is everyone down loading there tune....

 

[ice445]

I need help..Ok i tried to install my ford tune and my computer has windows 10 with s mode ...so how is everyone down loading there tune....

I think that's the only windows version that doesn't work. Can you borrow a laptop from someone?

 

[Dans18GT]

I need help..Ok i tried to install my ford tune and my computer has windows 10 with s mode ...so how is everyone down loading there tune....

I turned s mode off as soon as I got to the desktop.

 

[AZ18yote]

You'll need to switch out of S mode to run any non MS Store app. That's one of its biggest limitations.

 

[Lbj]

Thanks i think i will puck up a cheap laptop and used it just for my car application

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